Tag Archives: Château de Chaumont

Life in retirement in France

I finally retired at the end of 2024 after semi-retirement 5 years earlier. I worked full-time for 40 years in France as a freelance technical and legal translator, in the days before AI. I also lectured in the Masters programme at ESIT, which for many years the only state-run translation and interpretation school. I was there for 15 years, including 6 years in a part-time position.

Our house in Blois

After I retired, I continued to work part-time as an auto-entrepreneur, mainly as a sworn translator. I loved my profession and the transition to part-time sworn translator kept me in contact with a lot of interesting people as my main work was translating documents such as birth certificates, naturalisation applications, driver’s licence exchanges and real estate transactions. Last year, I did two interpretations for property sales at the notaire’s. I am happy to be finally retired but I would still be happy to do the odd interpretation.

When I get up in the morning, I can take my time. It’s a wonderful feeling! No more deadlines to meet! And it’s surprising how much time it takes to do nothing in particular. Do I get bored, you may ask? NO!! I have plenty to occupy me. First, I have a long list of things I’ve been meaning to do for a long time such as updating this blog :). I am currently making digital photo albums to have them turned into a printed book.

Enjoying a house-made cake at Château de Chaumont on a Sunday morning

One of our great pleasures is our daily wordle – 2 wordles and one quordle in French and the New York Times wordle for me, which I play with friends from my old school days in Townsville where I was born and brought up.

Apart from our own garden, I look after a shared garden that is attached to Châtel Rose, my holiday rental studio in Blois. It’s a very different sort garden – completely flat – unlike our own garden which is clay and mainly on sloping ground. I practically started the shared garden from scratch, with flowering perennials that need very little water as we don’t have a water supply. So far, it’s doing very well. It keeps me busy as I am virtually the only gardener! Our garden at home is practically a full-time job but I am working towards less maintenance as it becomes more established. We have a watering system from a well at the back of the house.

Jean Michel is an extraordinary renovator. We have added a paved terrace and wrought-iron pergola behind our house which will soon be covered in climbing roses. My talented husband has also made a laundry, added custom-built staircases to the garage and wood shelter and redone the entire rear façade of the house. His current project is renovating the barn and adding a greenhouse to the back of the non-functional little house on one side of our property. I help when I can but concentrate more on the garden.

Lunch on the terrace in the summer

We do a lot of travelling, especially to Boston where my darling little grandson, Eric (five in August) and beautiful little granddaughter Sophie (2 in March) live with my son and his American wife. My daughter and her Dutch husband live in New York with Lucas who turned one in October. We have been doing a lot of home exchanges for which we are very thankful as it really the only viable way we can visit for three or four weeks at a time.

After living in the Palais Royal in the middle of Paris for ten years, we moved to a beautiful house in Blois in the Loire Valley when Jean Michel retired 11 years ago. The house, built in 1584, was in excellent condition on the whole. We (and this means mostly Jean Michel) have mainly renovated the monumental fireplace in the upstairs living room, completely redone the downstairs kitchen, adding a picture window, fitted out a small upstairs kitchen and added skylights.

Our back garden

To keep fit and healthy, we both practice 5:2 intermittent fasting twice a week and I walk briskly for an hour every day. I try to get the household chores, including making my own yoghurts and bread, out of the way by 11 am. Fortunately I have a cleaner.

When the weather gets warmer, we cycle on our e-bikes as much as we can, sometimes driving to further locations with the bikes on a rack at the back of the car. We have now visited all the main châteaux in the region and most of the smaller ones. There are many bikes routes in the area but with our e-bikes, we are not limited. We have favourite places such as the rose village of Chédigny that we visit a couple of times a year.

The rose garden in the village of Chédigny

We have annual passes to Château de Chaumont and go there for coffee, cakes and a walk every Sunday morning we are in Blois. From April to the end of October, there is an annual garden festival in the château grounds which gives us endless variety from one season to the next. The château has frequent photography and art exhibitions.

Every Saturday morning we go to the local produce market in Blois which gives us the opportunity to catch up with locals we have come to know over the years. We have coffee at Jeff’s outdoor stand in warmer weather and at Le Baroque on the corner of Place Louis XII the rest of the time. From October to April we buy oysters to take home for lunch.

The Saturday morning market on Place Louis XII in Blois

As you can see, we are creatures of habit! We usually find a warmer destination in February or early March to spend a week exploring other European countries. In recent years, we’ve been to Rome, Cyprus, Malta, Sicily, Andalucia and Crete. We track the weather and book our airline tickets and accommodation at the last minute.

Towards the end of June, we usually set off on a 3 or 4-week cycling holiday, choosing the destination and departure date according to the weather, once again. We do not like cycling in the rain although an occasional rainy day can give us some R&R! We have now covered most of Europe. Our method is to rent an appartment for 3 or 4 nights and cycle in different directions.

Cycling around Lake Bled in Slovenia

Last year, for example, the ultimate destination was Lake Bled in Slovenia. We went via Cerdon in the Jura mountains in France, Lake Iseo in Italy, Porec on the Istrian peninsula, then Lake Bled itself. We returned via Radovlijica in eastern Slovenia, Ebbs in Austria and Saint-Hippolyte in Alsace. We usually book the next apartment on the second day of our stay in each place. That way, we can make the best choice weather-wise!

The rest of the summer is spent making the most of our garden, interspersed with cycling excursions.

As there is a severe lack of medical practitioners in Blois, we go to Amboise or Tours if we need to see a specialist. We usually make a day of it to catch up with some shopping and take in a restaurant.

The shared garden of my holiday rental in Blois

One of our great pleasures is making the most of the local gastronomy. We choose a Michelin-starred restaurant in the area four times a year to celebrate our birthdays and anniversaries. Fortunately, they are well spaced out – April, June, October and December! At the other end of the scale, we go to “workers’ restaurants” when we are cycling. There are plenty of other occasions to enjoy all the other great restaurants in between!

I realise that overall, we are not very social beings but we do see friends from time to time and have had quite a few visits from our children and grandchildren in the last couple of years. I have a lot of virtual contact with friends as well, some from my childhood.

All I can say is that we are never bored and that our days are always full!

Last of Summer in Blois and Stendal

Today was our last day of summer in Blois. And, despite the sun, there was a slight chill in the air. We know that the next time we go there, in mid-September, autumn will be on its way. We had hoped that waiting until Monday night to go back to Paris after the Assumption weekend would mean less traffic, but we’re not so sure.

Morning view at Closerie Falaiseau
Morning view at Closerie Falaiseau

Before we left the house this morning, we chatted with our current guests at Closerie Falaiseau, Karin and Lothar from Stendal in Germany which is a mere 2,200 kilometers from Blois. They drove 1500 K the first day and 700 K the second , which sounds very Australian, doesn’t it? Karin explained that their home town of Stendal has a French connection. The well-known French author, Henri Beyle, author of Le Rouge et le Noir and La Chartreuse de Parme (1783 to 1842), is believed to have chosen the pseudonym of Stendal  in hommage to  the German writer Winckelmann from the town of Stendal.

Blois Cathedral seen from the esplanade along the river
Blois Cathedral seen from the esplanade along the river

The first thing on the programme for the day was a photo shoot in Blois as we wanted to take enough photos for Blois Daily Photo to last until we come back again. I just took my iPhone but Jean Michel took his Canon 1DS 24/36 which has a special lens that takes photos of buildings without distorting them, unlike mine where I have to stand as far back as I can.

A bench casting shadows in Jardin de l'Evêché in Blois
A bench casting shadows in Jardin de l’Evêché in Blois

We parked along the Loire on the Mail which is what they called the Esplanade here and wandered up the hill to the Jardin de l’Evêché (Bishop’s gardens) behind the Cathedral, feeling very much on holidays. I love the shadows cast by the morning light.

Saint Jacques fountain in Blois
Saint Jacques fountain in Blois

Our last port of call was the Saint Jacques fountain which I had discovered on a previous occasion. It’s just next to the Restaurant de la Fontaine Saint Jacques. I asked the waiter if it would be alright if we momentarily took down the Sangria sign and he very kindly removed it until we’d finished our photos.

My favourite photo in the Blois photo competition
My favourite photo in the Blois photo competition

Before leaving Blois, we checked out this year’s amateur photo competition on the banks of the Loire. Next year, we hope we’ll be able to enter it. This year’s theme was “L’insolite” – the unexpected. My favourite photo was an old gabarre flat-bottomed fishing boat by Thierry Thomas.

A snazzy red and black Smart car
A snazzy red and black Smart car

And, coincidentally, what should be parked just next to us on the Mail? This very snazzy rouge et noire Smart Car!

A gabarre flat-bottomed boat ready to take tourists on the Loire at Château de Chaumont
A gabarre flat-bottomed boat ready to take tourists on the Loire at Château de Chaumont

After a late lunch, we packed the car and drove to Chaumont to try out a new cycling itinerary, upriver a short distance, then down to Valliers les Grandes, across to Souvigny en Touraine, up to Mosnes, then along the river again to Rilly sur Loire and back to Chaumont.

A lavoir with an interesting fountain head in Valliers les Grandes
A lavoir with an interesting fountain head in Valliers les Grandes

It turned out to have lots of hills, especially quite a steep one at the beginning. We saw two lavoirs, four churches and several historical homes and lots of sunflower fields which in French are called tournesol . I always thought they turned in the direction of the sun. However, these were facing east and not west. Perhaps someone has an explanation.

Sunflowers facing away from the sun!
Sunflowers facing away from the sun!

I had just remarked that we hadn’t seen any hot air balloons – you can usually see a half a dozen in the sky at once late afternoon and early morning – when we saw one just ahead of us and quite low down, travelling very quickly towards Chaumont and no doubt on to Chenonceau.

A hot air balloon on the bike path near Château de Chaumont
A hot air balloon on the bike path near Château de Chaumont

The original 25 kilometers somehow turned into 35 because we changed the starting point and took a wrong turning at one stage and it was 8.30 by the time we got back to the Little House for our last barbecue of the season. And now we’re sadly on our way back to Paris and work.

Monday’s Travel Photos – Château de Chaumont, Loire Valley, France

When I first visited Château de Chaumont in 1997, I found it very delapidated. Last summer we spent a wonderful afternoon there during the annual garden festival. I discovered yesterday that it has been totally renovated inside and is now quite stunning! The château as it stands today was rebuilt by Pierre Ier d’Amboise en 1468, then by Charles II d’Amboise from 1498 to 1511. The construction was continued in 1562 when Diane de Poitiers was ousted from Chenonceau by Catherine de Medicis. It was restored by Prince de Broglie  between 1875 and 1900 at which time the stables were also added.

Chaumont in summer
Chaumont in summer

The entrance to the château with its stone frieze
The entrance to the château with its stone frieze

The bedroom of Cosimo Ruggieri, one of Catherine de Medicis' astrologists
The bedroom of Cosimo Ruggieri, one of Catherine de Medicis’ astrologists

Catherine de Medicis' bedroom
Catherine de Medicis’ bedroom

A view of the Loire showing an allegorical bas relief
A view of the Loire showing an allegorical bas relief

The main staircase with its beautifully sculpted central pillar
The main staircase with its beautifully sculpted central pillar

The dining room with its Gothic fireplace
The dining room with its Gothic fireplace

One of the many grisailles
One of the many grisailles

The library with its Aubusson tapistries
The library with its Aubusson tapistries

Monumental fireplace in the Grand Salon
Monumental fireplace in the Grand Salon

The inner courtyard with its Renaissance staircase
The inner courtyard with its Renaissance staircase

Stables built by Prince de Broglie in 1877
Stables built by Prince de Broglie in 1877

The Wonderful Gardens of Château de Chaumont

Every time we go from Blois to Amboise, we pass Château de Chaumont, which stands majestically above the Loire River, with a quaint little row of houses below.

Château de Chaumont

I visited it some years ago and was not very impressed with the inside which is rather delapidated. It must have been in the winter too because I don’t remember the gardens at all and I found the view of the river quite austere. Quite by accident today, we decided to visit the gardens where the 20th edition of the International Garden Festival is being held.

Château de Chaumont seen from the historical garden

What a wonderful discovery! The gardens, with the château as a backdrop, are absolutely delightful. I just love the colours and the wonderful, sweeping view of the Loire which in summer is far more attractive than in winter, I can assure you!

Loire River from Château de Chaumont

The festival entries are a little uneven in quality – some are lovely while others seem somewhat naive. But all thirty gardens are interesting.

The red fox garden

We then visited the vegetable garden and the historical garden with its sweeping cedars.

Giant cedar

Despite the price (11 euro per person), I’m definitely coming back again next year!

International Garden Festival of Chaumont
Château de Chamont
Loire Valley between Blois and Amboise
April to October every year