Accommodation, Architecture, Art, Cycling, Italy, Sightseeing

Cycling along the Brenta Riviera from Stra to Fusina with a visit to Villa Pisani

September 20, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 7 Comments

As promised, Paola, our lovely hostess at La Casa di Paola e Marco, the B&B where we are staying in Noventa Padovana near Padua, gives us scrambled eggs, ham and cheese for breakfast so we are ready to start a hard day’s cycling. We are off to the Brenta Riviera, with its Palladian villas between Padua and Venise. We park the car at Stra in front of the first Palladian villa on our list, Villa Pisani, which looks more like a palace than a villa.

Built in the first half of the 18th century, it has 114 rooms. We begin the visit at 11.15 and considering the size of the second villa that I can see at the bottom of the grounds, I make my way through the rooms quite quickly.

The second villa at Villa Pisani which turns out to be the stables

Some are richly furnished but the frescoes on the walls and ceilings are what really take the eye. They are quite sumptuous.

It’s not until we get to the end of the visit that I discover that the second villa is not a villa at all but the stables, and designed soley to provide a harmonious view from the first building. It’s actually only one room deep! I think that is amazing.

One of the more delicate ceilngs at Villa Pisani

Time for cappuccino so we walk down to the bottom of the gardens to the Museum Café which is in the old donkey stables.

The Coffee House (ice-house) at Villa Pisani, an early version of refrigerator

On the way, we pass the Ice House, built at the same time as the villa and which served as a refrigerator in the summer back. During the winter, snow and ice were stored in the area under the man-made hill and used to keep food and drink cold throughout the hot summer. Holes in the ceiling provided air-conditioning in the room above where the inhabitants of the villa came to keep cool. It reminds me of the Tivoli Gardens near Rome.

The museum café, in the donkey's stables — The museum café, in the donkey’s stables

We’re now back in the parking area which seems a good place to leave the car for the day. There is a group called Travel & Bike next to us so I ask the man running the show where the bike route starts because our map isn’t detailed enough. He starts directing me, then says, “Here take this map”. I show it to Jean Michel who suggests I ask for a second one.

I wait until the T&B organiser has looked after all his cyclists , making sure they have what they need and that their bikes are properly adjusted, and ask him for another one. He’s still in a bit of a hurry so asks his mate to give me one. By now it’s nearly 1 pm.

We lock the car and set off, as instructed, passing in front of the villa and down to the bridge 300 metres away. When we arrive at the end of the path, the Travel & Bike van is there. The organiser comes over and apologises for not taking more time with us earlier. He has a few suggestions to make : we should stop in Dolo where there is a 16th century watermill and old dockyard, leave the path at Malcontenta to see Villa Foscari, another Palladian villa, and then go the extra 5 k to see Venice from the boat terminal at Fusina.

On the Brenta just before taking the main road to Fusina

His bike tour seems extremely well-organised. He’ll be picking up the bikes at Fusina so the cyclists can take the vaporetto to Venice. He already has their luggage as they’ll be staying overnight.

Villa Badoer Fattoretto closed after a tornado in July 2015

Meanwhile we are limited, once again, by the fast diminishing number of daylight hours. It’s already 1.30 pm. Our bike route takes us along the south side of the Naviglio di Brenta along a tranquil road, past many villas owned by rich Venetians, which explains why the area is called the Brenta Riviera. Some of the villas are in better shape than others, Villa Badoer Fattoretto, built in the 17th century being one of the better ones.

We stop at Dolo as suggested and have lunch at the Mulino di Dolo restaurant on the little esplanade which has a view of the dockyard (squero) and church.

After Dolo, the bike route runs along the river and we see more villas. The route takes us through Oriago until we come out on a main road. Fortunately the T&B organiser has explained where to go or we would have been lost! The group turns out to be just in front of us and we follow them to Villa Forcari a few hundred kilometers off the main path.

Unfortunately, it’s closed on Sunday afternoons but we are able to see it from the outside. Not that we would have had time to visit.

The remaining 5 kilometers to Fusina mainly run along the Brenta except for the last couple which take us on the main road leading to Fusina terminal. We arrive at the esplanade and can pick out some of our favourite places in Venice with our binoculars. We’re glad we made the extra effort. However, the 30 kilometers have taken us 2 hours and it’s 5 pm. Nightfall is at 7.15 pm at the moment …

Some of the dilapidated villas along the Brenta

We start the return journey, intending to eat a gelato in Malcontenta where I spied a gelateria on the way. When we arrive, there is only one table left (out of two!) and it’s in the sun. The owner immediately sees the problem and moves the table. We go in to choose our gelati. “No”, she says, “we don’t have any ice-cream, only cakes”. Well, I am not a great fan of Italian cakes. so it’s a bit of a disappointment, especially after cycling for 25 K without a break Jean Michel chooses one but I prefer to eat the biscuits we always carry with us.

There is an alternative bike route that skirts around Oriago and will save a couple of kilometers so we decide to take it. We’re cycling along the canal again when we hear a horn blowing behind us. We stop and who do we see – Paola and Marco from the B&B in Noventa Padovana! They’re on their motorbike bound for Venice for the evening. When they went past several minutes earlier, they thought it was us so doubled back. What a coincidence!

At kilometer 43 out of 58, we come to a fork near Mira and I choose the right hand path. Jean Michel, who’s just behind, calls out “no, to the left.” I brake, without realising I’m on gravel and over I go. I try to save myself by getting free of the bike and only have a few grazes on my hands and knees. No holes in my pants, thank goodness.

We get back to the car at 7 pm, just before nightfall. We arrive at our next location, Arqua Petraca, an hour later, just in time for an excellent – and well-deserved – dinner at the Osteria al Guerriero, run by the owners of the appartment we are renting for the next four nights. – Casa

In front of our rental appartment in Arqua Petrarca

We are delighted with our accommodation – a 2-bedroom flat on the ground floor with our own table and chairs in the garden just in front. Tomorrow is a rest day and we’re pleased to at last have more space than just a bedroom.

Architecture, Art, Cycling, Italy, Sightseeing, Travelling

Visiting Padua by Bike #2 – Cappella degli Scrovegni and Sant’Antonio – and a puncture!

September 19, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 5 Comments

We set out on our bikes at 10.30 am after having a typical Italian breakfast at our B&B. A bit too high carb for cyclists. Our hostess spontaneously suggests eggs and cheese for tomorrow.

It’s a little muggy to start with but not at all cold. This time, when we get to the canal, we don’t cross the bridge as we did yesterday and discover a very different path – either gravel or asphalt the entire way.

We go past the Villa Giovanelli again but the view is better from the other side of the canal. It affords a close-up view of the statues though.

The bike path just before the second bridge

We also avoid the narrow passageway across the second bridge because we come out on the other side. Just before the bridge, we turn left until the zebra crossing then join the path on the other side.

We decide to keep going along the canal and enter the city of Padua from the entrance closest to Cappella degli Scrovegni so we can pick up our tickets. We go past Porta Ogni Santi also known as Portello, which is a meeting place for the students who frequent the nearby university.

The chapel is just next door to Arena park where we had our lunch yesterday. I get our tickets without even having to stand in line (we reserved yesterday for 2.30 pm today) and we head for Porta Specola. En route we stop for a cappuccino near Piazza della Fruta.

First cappuccino since our arrival in Italy

As we’re cycling along one of the little paved streets off the Piazza, I realise I must have a puncture. Jean Michel pumps it up (we always carry a puncture kit) and we go to a little square nearby so he can repair the puncture.

It turns out one of my tyres has a big tear in it. While Jean Michel’s repairing the inner tube a lady comes by walking her dog. I ask her if she knows where there is a bike shop to buy a new tyre. She phones her son and directs us to the Duomo – all in Italian! A young girl and her mother come by and ask if they can help. The other lady relays the message about the bike shop to the young girl who explains it to me in English adding that the shop will be closed during lunch time.

That’s OK. We’ll have lunch first, visit the chapel, then find the shop. So we set off for the old Observatory tower built in the 18th century to experiment with astronomic theories.

We then keep our eye open for somewhere to have lunch and I spy a little Trattoria under the arches of a gallery called Savonarola that looks just right. We order the pasta of the day – maccheroni al torchio alla norma which I later discover is a dish of Sicilian origin with a tomato sauce to which fried eggplant, ricotta and basil have been added.

The starry sky of the Cappella degli Scrovegni

At the chapel, we arrive with 10 minutes to spare. Only 25 people can enter at a time and prior reservation is compulsory. We watch a 20-minute video in Italian first, with subtitles in English and German. It explains the origin of the chapel and some of the frescoes. I’m a little disappointed in some of the paintings. Giotto finished only took 2 years to paint the entire chapel and I guess he rushed through some of the scenes …

Palazzo del Bo university founded in 1222.

Next stop is the duomo but no one has heard of a bike shop there so we go back to the tourist office where we are directed to another shop not far from our next stop, Saint Anthony’s basilica. L’Angolo del ciclo is on via Facciolatti, 22. We stop by the Palazzo del Bo on the way, but don’t have time to visit.

L'angolo ciclo bike shop — L’angolo del Ciclo bike shop

We soon have a new tyre and two bike locks because the one that Jean Michel uses to protect our bikes when they’re on the bike trailer takes quite a long time to attach. It’s better to have a faster system when you’re visiting a town centre by bike. He manages to put the tyre in one of the paniers and we start look for a gelateria.

The Byzantine cupolas at Saint Anthony's basilica — The Byzantine cupolas at Saint Anthony’s basilica

After our ice-creams, we visit the Basilica, which I consider is the most interesting monument in Padua. It is quite sumptuous. It has a Roman façade, Byzantine cupolas, a Gothic central tower and bell-towers and a late Renaissance chapel containing the tomb of Saint Anthony. Photos are not allowed inside.

Second set of cloisters at the Basilica di Sant'Antonio — Second set of cloisters at the Basilica di Sant’Antonio

We continue the visit with two cloisters offering wonderful views of the outside of the basilica.

By the time we get back to our bikes, it’s 5.40 pm. We debate about when Jean Michel will change the tire since it’s a bit cumbersome. However, the decision is out of our hands. My tyre is completely flat again. I am a bit worried about the time because we need a good 40 minutes to get back to our B&B and the sun sets at around 7.15 pm. We don’t have our lights with us. As it turns out, I needn’t have worried. We even have time to stop at the supermarket and bancomat.

The light as we cycle home is quite lovely.

We’ve really enjoyed our stay in Padua. It has a good feel to it and is very relaxing. Despite its popularity, it feels like a place where people live and not just a tourist attraction like Lake Garda. Visiting it by bike is perfect despite the puncture. Staying out of the main area is also a good solution as it has enabled us to see another part of the city.

A part of Padua we wouldn't have seen if we hadn't been cycling — A part of Padua we wouldn’t have seen if we hadn’t been cycling

Tomorrow, we’re moving to an appartment at Arqua Petrarca 25 kilometers away for three days of cycling – the Palladian villas, the fortified towns of Mnselice, Este and Montagnana, and the Euganei hills. Fine weather is forecast for Saturday and Monday, with a maximum of 25°C, but we might have a bit of rain on Sunday morning.

Architecture, Cycling, Italy, Sightseeing, Travelling

Visiting Padua by Bike

September 17, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 6 Comments

I’ve been wanting to visit Padua for a very long time. Many years ago, we toured northern Italy and got as far as Vicenza. We can’t remember why we didn’t go any further. Our Routard guidebook tells us that the best way to visit Padua is by bike. Jean Michel is a little dubious, especially after Lake Garda which is not really geared towards cyclists, even though we made the most of the bike paths that do exist, particularly on the eastern side.

Our first glimpse of the 18th century Prato della Valle, once the site of an immense Romain theatre

We’ve reserved a B&B seven kilometers from the centre and I’m hoping we’ll be able to cycle into the old town. The Routard also says that if we buy a Padova (Padua) Pass, we can park for free in the Rabin car park just outside the historical centre. The only catch is that you have to park first, then buy the pass at the tourist office.

A close-up of some of the 78 statues of famous men, philophers, writers, men of science and doctors.

It turns out that you enter your registration number in the ticket machine, then insert one euro. You pay the balance when you come back to get the car. We set off and are very impressed by the number of people on bikes. Most of the roads have a bike path on one side, though it is usually only separated from the road by a yellow line. It doesn’t seem to pose a problem.

The second monument we see - Basilica di Sant'Antonio built in the 13th century — The second monument we see – Basilica di Sant’Antonio built in the 13th century

We get to the pedestrian only area and see that everyone is wheeling their bike. I ask at the tourist office, which is just nearby, and the lady explains it only concerns the immediate vicinity (Piazza Cavour). Elsewhere, you can cycle wherever you want. You just have to watch the pedestrians. Which we do.

Our pass costs 16 euro for 2 days and also includes free public transport and free entrance to several monuments, the most important of which is the Scrovegni Chapel which already costs 13 euro so it’s worth it. The lady then reserves our entrance to the Chapel at 2.30 pm next day which seems to me a very civilised way of doing things.

We head off for the Parco dell’Arena to have our picnic lunch (it’s an intermittent fast day) and decide what to do next. Although the old town isn’t that big, having our bikes gives us a much better choice than if we reon foot.

The 13th century Palazzo della Ragione with its sundial

We visit the Piazza della Fruta and the Piazza delle herbe where they are starting to pack up after the daily market, including a visit upstairs.

The first-floor gallery of the Palazzo della Ragione

The 13th century Venetian-style building has both a clock and a sundial.

The "stone of shame" inside the Palazzo della Ragione on which insolvent debtors were exhibited with their pants down! — The “stone of shame” inside the Palazzo della Ragione on which insolvent debtors were exhibited in their underwear!

But the oldest clock in Italy is in the nearby Piazza dei Signori, unfortunately being restored.

The oldest clock in Italy (14th century) on the Venitian-style Piazza dei Signori

At the Piazza del Duomo, we visit the Baptistry next to the cathedral with its lovely frescoes. Entrance is covered by our Padova Pass.

The 12th cedntury Battisero della Cattedrale

We’ve had enough visiting for one day so head back to the car. I have to press the SOS button on the ticket machine and give the car registration number and Padova Pass number so we can get out the car park.

The B&B is in a residential area called Noventa Padovana and has a large garden. As soon as we’ve taken our things up to the room, we take our bikes off the tailer and, following our hostess’ instructions, cycle down to the canal. So far, so good. It seems we can take the path on either side. Not far along we see the most amazing building which turns out to be Villa Giovanelli, a Paladian villa built in the 17th century.

After that, the road narrows to a couple of deep ruts and we’re no longer sure if we chose the right bank. We eventually come out on a road and don’t know whether to turn left or right. I ask another cyclist for the centro historico and he sends me to the right. We go over a bridge and see the Brenta on our left. By now it’s about 5.30 pm and people are obviously coming home from work. We follow the path along the river hoping we’re going the right way.

I ask for directions again and am told to go left over the bridge and straight on. Jean Michel is his usual doubting-Thomas self but we eventually reach an intersection that he recognises. He then takes me back to Piazza dei Signori for a cold drink.

The ride home is less eventful and takes a little over a half an hour. Wonderful ! We won’t have to take the car tomorrow to visit Padova.

Architecture, Cycling, Italy, Restaurants, Sightseeing

Cycling on Lake Garda #2: Bardolino – Lazise – Peschiera – Sirmione

September 17, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 1 Comment

The weather is rather overcast when we set out but the forecast says it’s going to improve. We’re a bit disappointed because we don’t have the magical light we had yesterday when we cycled to Malcesine.

We decide to drive to Garda 9 k to the south and stop and visit Torri del Benaco on the way. It is our closest village, after all.

The typical crenellated towers in Torri del Benaco

We admire the 14th century castle with its typical crenellations and the usual little rectangular port but the threatening rain doesn’t encourage us to linger.

There is a lot of traffic at Garda and not much hope of free parking so we push on to Bardolino another 3 K south. We find a place to park on the side of the main road just before the town and set off on our bikes into the centre. After a couple of kilometres on the main road, we find a very pleasant bike path and discover a most delightful little town, though very different from the villages between Torri and Malcesine.

We continue along the edge of the lake passing a series of camping grounds all full of German and a few Dutch campers. Our hotel is full of Germans as well. Ours is the only car without a D on it!

One of the many camping grounds along the waterfront. This one has little hillside bungalows!

As we approach Lazise, there are more and more people on the path, which is no longer reserved for bikes. We often have to get off and walk. As we finally reach Lazise, we understand why. There is a huge market and the whole town is full of people. We have trouble getting through with our bikes.

The market spreads so far that we find it difficult to even see the town!

The market on two sides of the port in Lazise

We find our way out as quickly as we can and finally come to a bike path again. The sky is clearing and the light is improving reminding us of yesterday’s magic.

The path peters out and becomes a beach. The only way out is through a camping ground that takes us up to the main road again. A bike path along the edge goes past the Caneva World and Gardaland entertainment parks but it’s not very scenic to say the least !

We finally arrive at what we think is Pescheria but is actually a marina outside. We hesitate to have lunch there but Jean Michel wants to go on to Pescheria and find something more typical. However, when we get there, it seems so full of tourists that we don’t go into the town and continue along the edge of the lake.

The view from La Congileria — The view from La Conchiglia

We’re forced back onto a bike path along the main road again, and eventually veer off to the right where we find a restaurant with a terrace called La Conchiglia which we later discover also fronts onto the main road! We’re nearly at Sirmione by then. It’s 1.30 pm and we’re hungry! We appreciate the excellent rib steak and cold house red.

A bike path along the main road then takes us up the peninsula to Sirmione which is once again packed with tourists. It’s hard to really appeciate the surroundings with so many people in every direction. We buy our ferry tickets to back to Bardolino (28 euro for us and our bikes for a one-hour-trip), find somewhere to leave the bikes and vist the town.

It's nearly the end of the bougainvillea season but it's still stunning — It’s nearly the end of the bougainvillea season but it’s still stunning

There is bougainvillea everywhere and despite the crowds and the shop fronts we can make out some lovely old buildings.

The Grottoes of Catullus built in Roman times

After the obligatory gelato, we wait for the ferry. Because we have bikes we’re taken to the top of the queue and get excellent seats on the top deck. We get a bird’s eye view of the Roman ruins of the Grottoes of Catullus and immediately regret we didn’t visit them.

Lazise from the ferry, looking much better without the market and the crowds

As we approach Lazise from the ferry, we are able to get a better view of the castle and waterfront that was obscured by the crowds in the morning. The streets are practically empty. Advice: always visit in the afternoon!

The Romanesque church of San Severo with its olive trees

We soon arrive back in Bardolino and set out in search of the little Romansque church of San Severo. We visit in turns to avoid having to lock our bikes and the second time I go past I hear singing. I assume it must be recorded music although it’s very powerful. “No”, says Jean Michel, “it’s a young girl.” I go back in but she has stopped singing. “Encore,” I say hopefully and she obligingly sings again. Her voice brings tears to my eyes.

We cycle back to the car and are soon ensconced on our balcony with the usual glass of white wine. Although today is somewhat of a disappointed after yesterday, the sunset turns out to be the best so far. and the singing is unforgettable. Tomorrow we’re off to Padua.

Cycling, Italy, Sightseeing

Cycling on Lake Garda #1 – Torri to Malcesine and Limone

September 15, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 6 Comments

Off on our summer holiday at last ! The window and the kitchen are finished and a well-deserved month is awaiting us. We are starting with Lake Garda in Italy and hoping to go to Slovenia and onto Zaghreb in Croatia and eventually to Bucarest to continue cycling along the Danube where we left off last time (Budapest). But with immigration and border problems in eastern Europe at the moment, we’re not sure how far we’ll get.

We arrive in Torri del Benaco on Lake Garda around 6 pm and head for the tourist office because our Tom-Tom can’t find the address of the hotel. At the same time we ask about cycling paths. The girl looks askance then hastily circles a few towns on the map and says “You can cycle from there to there and from there to there. Otherwise it’s on the main road.” We’ve been driving on the main road and the traffic does not look encouraging.

Our hotel, Albergo del Garda, turns out to be 4 k to the north. I had understood it was in the village itself. The idea was NOT to have to take the car for 3 days. Hmm. We arrive and see that the hotel is located directly on the main road. We receive a very stony welcome and are shown our room on the second floor without a lift. The room is very spartan and small. However, it has a balcony overlooking the lake and the view is stunning.

It has been a very fraught day (I had an attack of orthostatic hypotension at lunchtime and we had to rush out of the restaurant in Aosta and driving on the Italian motorway is not very relaxing even for a good driver like Jean Michel). I suggest that we unpack the car later and have a cold drink of wine and some olives on the balcony first. As we sit and look at the view of the lake and mountains opposite, the magic begins to work.

The sunset turns out to be quite spectacular and we at last feel we are on holidays. Rather than go out again, we eat some of my home-made bread, tomatoes from the garden and our cycling biscuits.

The lake from the cemetary in Pai looking across the main road

We wake up next morning at 8 am (early for us) due to the extremely thin walls (I could hear the man next door snoring in the night) and have breakfast, which isn’t bad for Italy which is not renowned for its prima colazione but all the guests except us are German which probably explains why it’s better than usual …

By 9.15 am we are on our bikes, on the main road, heading for Malcesine 18 K to the north where we’re taking the ferry to Limone on the other side of the lake. The view is so wonderful that I forget to be nervous as cars speed past at 90 kph. We stop several times to take photos.

The view from our first attempt at finding the cycle path

There’s supposed to be a cycle path at Castelletto di Brenzone 6 k from along the route but we have a little trouble finding it. We eventually do (there are no indications) and stop for a cold drink at Ristorante di Umberto right on the lake. It feels like heaven.

Our first stop for the day at Castelletto

We continue along the path past a busy market. It then becomes very pebbly and we hope it’s going to improve. It does and from then on, we are riding along the lake, past lovely little fishing villages with their tiny rectangular ports.

The first rectangular port in Castelletoo

The light and the colours of the lake are quite wonderful. We couldn’t hope for a better start to our holiday.

At Cassone, the last village before Malcesine, we visit a small museum devoted to life on the lake. I check the ferry timetable and see that we only have a half an hour before it departs and the next one is two hours later. We leave post haste and arrive in Malcesine with 5 minutes to spare. There is a queue for the tickets but we make just in time. We’re stunned at the price – 19.40 euro for two people and two bikes!

It takes a half an hour to go across the lake to Limone. It’s lovely being on the lake with lovely views in every direction. After starting out in the morning at 19°C it’s now 25°C and feels quite hot. We get off the ferry and are overwhelmed with the number of tourists. Everyone seems to have come to Limone for lunch, like we have!

We find a place to leave our bikes because it’s hard going with so many people and so many steep streets. We walk up a hilly street away from the main eating area in the hope of finding something a little less crowded. We eventually come to a shady restaurant overlooking the lake called Ristorante Alla Noce.

The sour-looking waiter finds us a table and brings us a menu but the view is lovely so we ignore his attitude. We share a seafood antipasto, followed by grilled lake fish for Jean Michel and a steak for me because I’m not feeling at all adventurous after yesterday. We have house wine which is very slightly frizzante like a lot of the Italian wines. The bill comes to 59 euro.

After coffee, we head back into the madding crowd and then look for our ferry which leaves from a different quay it seems. On the way, we see another boat going to Malcesine which turns out to be a bit cheaper than the official ferry (18 euro) and we don’t have to queue for tickets. The engine is very noisy and we get sprayed a bit but we enjoy the ride. We later learn that it’s 9 euro per person return but we don’t know what they usually charge for bikes.

The fresco on the Palazzo dei Capitani in Malcesine

We do a quick tour of Malcesine which, like Limone, is full of tourists and shops. It has several historical buildings including the Palazzo die Capitani built in the 13th and 14th century. You can just walk into the main room with it’s 17th century fresco.

The view while eating our ice-cream - the port in Brenzone — The view while eating our ice-cream at Porto di Brenzone

We then set off home again, stopping for a gelato at one of the little ports along the way, Porto di Brenzone.

Typical view from the bike path on the way home

The views are still lovely though we’ve lost the magical light we had in the morning. The bike path eventually gives out and we’re on the main road again. We reach our hotel at 6 pm, after cycling 39 k and a total time of 3 hours 20 mins. Nearly time for an apertif on the balcony again!

Cycling, Renovation, Travelling

I Need a Holiday

September 8, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 11 Comments

At 2 am this morning, we finished the kitchen after exactly 3 months. Jean Michel has done a splendid job but we are both exhausted! The tiles on the left of the window are the 18th century tiles we bought in Portugal last September.

The rest of this week will be spent getting the house ready for the paying guests who are coming while we are on holiday. In fact, our favourite guests, Sandy and Bill, who are coming to stay for the 4th year in a row, will get to try out the new kitchen before we do. I want to apply a special protective coating to the grouting between the tiles and I need the grouting to dry for 3 days and then for the protective coating to dry 36 hours which takes us to our departure on Sunday.

Our first stop is Lake Garda for at least 3 days, cycling along the eastern side, then we’ll work our way across Italy – we’ve never been to Padua – through Slovenia and then Croatia (Zaghreb) and maybe onto Bucharest or Budapest to continue cycling along the Danube. We will be guided by the weather and possible cycling areas. I will be drawing inspiration from all Anda’s posts on Romania in her wonderful travel blog Travel Notes and Beyond.

Until we leave, you may not hear from me again but once we get going, I’ll probably be posting every second day. While Jean Michel writes up the travel journal, I write my posts.

Paris, Travelling

Paris in December – Is it Worthwhile?

September 2, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 20 Comments

I have just received emails from two Sydney readers asking about visiting Paris in December so I decided to answer them in a blog post so that other travellers could benefit from my responses and experienced readers give their opinion.

Marie asks:

Can you tell me how cold it is in Paris in early December compared to our Sydney winter? I want to be sure I am prepared and I want to know if wearing thermal undergarments and jeans and Australian winter coat would be enough to keep us warm.

I have seen snow in Paris in December so it can be cold, i.e. close to zero. Indoors, there will always be heating, sometimes quite high, especially in cafés and museums where people’s body heat adds to the temperature.

The secret is wearing several layers because warm air builds up in-between the layers of clothing which means that two thin pullovers are warmer than one thick one. It also means that you can take off layers if you are too hot.

Thermal underwear or even tights or leggings under jeans should keep you warm. I did not wear thermal underwear in Paris – I would have been too hot – but I find it useful now I am living in a house in the country which is not overheated.

Make sure you have decent hats and gloves. Silk gloves under woollen or leather gloves will add an extra layer. You can buy silk gloves cheaply in sports stores (Go Sport, Decathlon) in Paris as they are used for skiing.

Are the cafes, attractions, museums all opened in December?

Paris is popular venue all year round and nothing closes in the winter as far as I know.

Some sites say (and I may be understanding it wrong) that there is fewer daylight hours during the day. Is this true?? if so can you tell me how many hours I can walk around while the sun is still out.

In the summer, with daylight saving, it doesn’t get dark until 11 pm while in December, which has the shortest hours of the year, it doesn’t get light until 9 am and then gets dark again around 4.30 pm. However, everything is well lit at night so you wouldn’t have to worry about safety issues. It may not necessarily be sunny though. You could find yourself with only pale light all day if it’s rainy or overcast.

Are the supermarkets and groceries similar to Australian products? Are the labels in French or English?

Some products are similar, some are different. It all depends on what sort of food you are looking for. Very often, the ingredients are also in English, but not always. You’d have to go to a special store for Vegemite, for example.

My daughter is prone to getting sick and has asthma. If I had to buy medication would I find brands that I know eg. panadol, codral, vicks.

Medication around the world is more or less the same these days, but the brand names are different. You need to know the name of the “molecule”. For example, Panadol is paracetamol and comes under the brand name of Doliprane here. Codral, on the other hand, is a mixture of ingredients and is mainly sold in Australia and New Zealand. You should bring a box with you. Vicks is readily available. I always travel with small amounts of the medication I use most frequently. That way, you can take something immediately and then take a sample to the pharmacy. You will find someone to speak English in most pharmacies in Paris, particularly in the tourist areas.

Elaine asks:

My 19-year old daughter and I arrive on Sunday 6 December in Paris. We are having difficulty finding a clean, warm, budget hotel with twin beds and an ensuite. This is my first trip overseas without my husband and I am a bit nervous about booking, paying and regretting. I have been considering the Latin district as I think my daughter would fit in as she is a university student. Was hoping around the $1200 mark (750 euro) for the 7 nights, don’t mind paying more or less if location is going to save time and transport hassles. I’m assuming they would have heating, particularly for this time of the year.

Yes, there will be heating. Your budget seems a little low to me though I may be wrong. I don’t have any personal recommendations, but I suggest that you consider renting an apartment through AirBnB as it would probably be cheaper for a week. I assume you have read my post on The Best Area to Stay in Paris. Fodor’s forum is also an excellent source when looking for hotels.

Wondering if I should book a shuttle from airport to hotel as we would have been flying for 19 hours and may be very tired. Or perhaps the metro?

There is a high-speed train (RER) from Charles de Gaulle to the middle of the city. It costs 10 euro per person. It depends on where you’ll be staying. Booking a shuttle could take some of the stress out of the trip.

When we came 10 years ago, the queue at the Louvre Museum was enormous last time and with children was not worth it.

It’s very easy to buy your tickets in various places ahead of time. Click here for more information.

The Eiffel Tower from Bir Hakeim bridge in winter

Eiffel Tower – I believe it is not very visible in the winter, so from the ground would be ok Everything depends on the weather.

A clear sunny day in winter is just as good as summer! If you don’t go up, the best view is from Bir Harkeim bridge. Click here for a fun local bus ride from the Louvre.

Segway Paris Tour (not sure if this would be appropriate for December, what do you think?

I don’t have an anwser for this one. Any readers have any experience with segways?

Moulin Rouge Show (Booked Thursday 10 December 9pm) Not sure how to get there? Although we have all day to find our way!

Very easy – you just take the metro to Blanche on line 2.

Paris Latin quarter walking tour – I think we would love this, although most websites are in excess of $300 AUD before we start shopping, can you recommend anyone? I’ve also read something about the Marais Neighbourhood, do you think we could find these areas on our own?

There are FREE walking tours of Paris. Just give the tip at the end that you think it deserves: http://www.discoverwalks.com/paris-walking-tours/. I haven’t tried one in Paris but have appreciated them in other European cities. The Left Bank tour, for example, is at 11 am and 2.30 pm every day. No need to book – you just turn up at the meeting point. There is a tour of the Marais at 2.30 pm and 5 pm every day but you could find your way there easily yourself. You could check out my post on the Marais. If you’d like to explore the area around the Louvre, you can also read my Powerwalking posts! Just enter powerwalking in the search box.

Christmas Markets – Saint-Sulpice etc. Be good to do some Christmas shopping while in Paris.

The Christmas markets have gone very much downhill in recent years. I don’t know the one at Saint Sulpice but my friend Sylvia Sabès, whose judgment I would trust recommends it in a post for Girls Guide to Paris on how to shop the Christmas markets.

La Vallee Village shopping outlet.

I personally think Marne la Vallée is terrible! Here are some other suggestions for outlet tores in Paris.

St-Ouen Flea Market or equivalent.

There are two flea markets in Paris – Saint Ouen, which is a permanent market, and Porte de Montreuil which is only on Sundays. Follow the crowd when you get out at the Porte de Clignancourt metro and watch your purses!

Perhaps a perfume workshop? depending on cost!

I don’t have an answer to this one either but once again, I can refer you to a post by Pikke Allen on Girls Guide to Paris: Scents and Sensibility – A perfume walking tour of Paris.

In conclusion, all I can tell you that any of my Australian friends who have visited Paris in winter said it was worth it!

This post is part of Lou Messugo’s All About France link-up. For other posts about France by other bloggers, click here.

Cycling, Loire Valley

Cycling along the Loire: Beaugency – Meung sur Loire – Clery Saint André

August 28, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 8 Comments

There is a saying in France that 15th August which is a public holiday heralds the end of summer and with 15°C at 11 am on Sunday 16th, it seems as though it might be true. At least it’s sunny.

We arrive in Tavers, 40 minutes by car from Blois, around midday. We’ve chosen Tavers as our starting point rather than Beaugency in order to add on a few kilometers to reach our usual 40 K return. We’re not disappointed. It’s a pretty little town with a well-decorated town hall and the short cycle path to Beaugency is very pleasant, especially the view of the oldest bridge over the Loire as we approach the town.

Beaugency bridge from the bike path coming from Tavers

We’ve already cycled to Beaugency before but from Mer. We’ll visit the town again on the way back particularly as I recently came here with an Australian friend and discovered a few things I hadn’t seen before and would like to show them to Jean Michel. We’re intending to have lunch in Meung-sur-Loire and don’t want to get there too late.

Vineyards along the cycle path between Beaugency and Meung-sur-Loire

It’s a good cycle path mainly running along the river past vineyards and other crops. On the way, we suddenly come across a local fête in what seems like the middle of nowhere. There aren’t many people so we hope things will liven up during the afternoon.

A local fête on the bike path in the middle of nowhere

As we enter Meung, we see the main road is closed off. It’s the end of the Sunday morning market which mainly revolves around the old Halles or covered market. I later learn it was built in 1940 and renovated in 1985.

Arriving in Meung at the end of the market

We cycle up the little hill to Place du Martroi in front of Saint Liphard collegiate church and castle that we intend to visit after lunch. The last stragglers are still buying produce at the market stalls. We find a table at Le Café du Commerce, a traditional brasserie, and order fish and chips, a dish which has become very popular in France in recent times and varies considerably in quality. It’s not wonderful but still OK.

Next stop, the château, where we learn there are jousting matches today. There are a few people in mediaeval dress and a circle of spectators around the jousters. It all looks very amateurish and good fun. The kids and jousters are certainly getting a kick out of it. We hope there will be more people as the afternoon wears on.

Meung-sur-Loire is a privately owned castle which claims to be one of the largest and oldest châteaux in the Loire. It is badly in need of major renovation, especially some of the roofs. It isn’t a princely castle but the owners have gone out of their way to attract visitors. Many kings, including François I and Louis XI stayed here, it seems.

The bishop's bathroom in Meung castle — The bishop’s bathroom in Meung castle – very modern at the time

There are several unusual exhibitions, including a bishop’s bathroom, very luxurious for the times.

The church tower in Meung seen from the grounds of the castle

After climbing up to the rafters, we go down into the dungeons which explain why it once served as a prison.

More people are arriving as we leave in the hope of seeing jousting on horseback but it’s already 3.30 pm and it was supposed to start at 3. There are no sign of the horses.

Mediaeval tents in front of the castle in Meung next to the jousting ring

We cross the river to the other side and I am surprised and delighted to see a special traffic light for bikes.

The special traffic light for bikes just outside Meung

After a few kilometers along the river, we branch off to Cléry-Saint-André to visit the Notre Dame Basilica which is also a collegiate church and royal chapel. After many trials and tribulations it was reconstructed in the 17th century. We’ve been here before but it was cold and wet and the church was closed. The town is rather deserted but more attractive than last time.

Rather than go back the way we came, we decide to follow the loop indicated by the tourist office, which turns out to be a mistake. There is nothing very attractive about the return trip and we are pleased to get back to Beaugency, especially as the last 3 kilometers are on a busy road.

The square in Beaugency that we missed last time

At Beaugency, I take Jean Michel past the castle and on to the square we missed last time. There is a brasserie there and I’m hoping for an ice-cream. Unfortunately it’s closed and we don’t find anywhere else open that’s selling decent ice-creams so we have a cold drink instead.

The abbey church seen from the café where we didn’t have an ice-cream

It doesn’t take long to get back to Tavers. We’re very happy to have visited the castle in Meung and seen Beaugency again – but we won’t do the loop again!

Loire Valley

Beaugency on the Loire

August 25, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 13 Comments

Beaugency is a small town of 7,500 inhabitants on the banks of the Loire, about 30 km north of Blois and 40 km south of Orléans. The 400-metre long bridge, which dates back to the 12th century, has 23 arches and is said to be the oldest over the Loire. Beaugency is a pretty little town with cobblestones, a Renaissance town hall built in the 16th century, a castle, an abbey church and an 11th century church. It’s certainly worth a detour!

Caesar's Tower seen from the bridge — Caesar’s Tower seen from the bridge

The Renaissance town hall built in the 16th century

Looking through the archway of the local college

Joan of Arc who helped to win the Battle of Beaugency in 1429.

Architecture, Cycling, Flowers & gardens, Food, France, Germany, Loire Valley, Restaurants

Cycling along the Cher from Montrichard to Saint Aignan

August 14, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 12 Comments

Sunday is cool and rainy so we have reserved our weekly cycling excursion for Monday which dawns bright and sunny. We are off by 10.30 am to Montrichard on the Cher River, about a half an hour’s drive from Blois, via Chaumont. We are going to get cycle maps at the tourist office.

Montrichard castle from the main street leading to the tourist office

They don’t have any. That’s a disappointment but we have seen on the Internet that there is a cycle path to Thésée about halfway along the 20 K route. We find a parking lot near the river and set out.

The Cher along the bike path leaving Montrichard

Initially the path is promising and we’re happy to be on our bikes again. The lack of maintenance, however, soon becomes obvious (read : the path is often rutted and you have to keep your eyes on the ground all the time). When you glance at the scenery, it’s quite bucolic, marred only by the smell of pollution caused by ever-increasing green algae.

One of the many locks along the bike path

We go past several locks, all of which seem to be functioning and automatic. Most of the lock houses seem to be converted into holiday rentals. From time to time, I get off my bike and walk over a rough patch, rather than find myself face down on the gravel in front of me. “Don’t worry”, Jean Michel consoles me, “after we get to Thésée, there’s a real bike path.”

Troglodyte houses in the limestone cliffs

Well, yes, there is a sort of a bike path between the river and the railway line but the maintenance isn’t any better. On the other side, we can see many troglodyte houses built into the limestone cliffs, but it’s not really scenic.

An enormous grain silo with a vineyard in front

Nor is the modern version of a cathedral, aka a grain silo. It even has a pseudo bell tower.

The approach to Saint Aignan with its château and collegiate church

The approach to Saint-Aignan-sur-Cher, however, which we’ve never visited, more than makes up for the mediocre ride. The château stands on the hill just opposite the bridge with the collegiate church to the left.

The sign on the bridge at Saint-Aignan showing the demarkation line

Jean Michel points out a sign on the bridge that says “1940-1944 Here was the line of demarcation. We will remember them.”

One of the many luxuriant flower pots in Saint Aignan

Now comes the important bit. Lunch. It’s 1.15 pm and it’s Monday (read : most restaurants in France, particularly in the provinces, are closed). Now my idea of a restaurant when we’re cycling is a pleasant, inexpensive, non-touristy-looking place, with shady trees over the outside tables and a direct view of the river. The sort they have in Germany all along the Danube.

Gasthof Berzl in Kelheim - the sort of place where I like to have lunch when cycling — Gasthof Berzl in Kelheim – the sort of place where I like to have lunch when cycling

The only problem is that it seems to be a rare commodity in France. We cycle through the village and only discover a kebab place near the church and an indoor crêperie. We ride along the river in both directions and finally have to resign ourselves to coming back to L’Embarcadère which fronts onto the main road and doesn’t have a terrace. However, with a four-course menu for 13 euro, it’s definitely inexpensive.

L'Embarcadère where we finally eat — L’Embarcadère where we finally eat

I have stuffed tomatoes, steak (small piece) and chips, cheese and ice-cream. It’s all palatable though nothing special. Jean Michel has the same thing except he has beef flank (hampe) instead of steak. Just in case you’ve never discovered this, the piece of meat that’s called steak (often written steack) in France is not what Australians call steak. It’s a specific cheap cut of grilling beef. It is NOT fillet or entrecôte.

The château up on the hill seen from a house near the tourist office

We’ve finished our coffee so we set off to visit the town, starting with the tourist office because we’d like to find a better route to cycle back to Montrichard. Disappointment once again. They don’t have any cycle maps either. They give us a map of the town indicating 20 places to visit, but with explanations for only two of them : the castle and the collegiate church.

We’re just next to the road leading up to the château and we debate whether it’s worth it. We decide to make the effort. Halfway up, we talk to a man with a truck sweeping up dead leaves. I can’t believe there are already autumn leaves in August but the man tells us the trees have a disease. That’s a relief (not for the trees of course). Needless to say, the chestnut trees are already shedding their leaves everywhere. Sigh.

The château is privately owned, but visitors have free access to the courtyard. What a discovery! We’re so glad we made the decision to go to the top of the hill.

The château with its 9th century tower, Renaissance château with its scallop shells and François I salamanders, was once the home of several generations of Duc de Beauvilliers.

It has a wonderful view and lovely proportions. I particularly like the large stone urns with their blue flowers and immediately decide to plant them at home next year. I just have to find out what they are …

The collegiate church with its Republican inscription

We ride back down into the town and visit the 11th century Collegiate Church which has two interesting features. On the front there is an inscription that says « République française Liberté Egalité Fraternité ». Now, you must admit it’s original! The church was auctioned off during the French Revolution and given back to the Catholic Church in 1800.

The recumbent statue of Jeanne can be seen on the right — The recumbent statue of Jeanne de Perellos can be seen on the right

The other attraction is the tomb of Jeanne de Perellos, with its recumbent statue. She was banished from the church for seducing Louis II of Chalon, Count of Saint-Aignan from his legitimate spouse in 1420. What a claim to fame!

The monumental staircase opposite the collegiate church leading up to the château

Opposite is a monumental staircase leading up to the château.

We cycle back through the little town with cobbled streets and several very old houses and down to the river. I have checked the map and found a little white road that runs roughly parallel to the main road and will take us back to Montrichard. Jean Michel has approved it.

The church with its unusual archway in Pouillé

Well, it might run parallel to a main road, but it’s still a 90 kph road and we have to ride one behind the other which isn’t much fun. At Pouillé, which is roughly opposite Thésée, we see an interesting church with an archway on the right. Initially built in the 11th and 12th centuries, it was bombarded in 1940 but has since been restored. There are no cafés.

A shady terrace in Angé, very welcome after riding for 15 K under a 30°C sun

We continue on our way until Angé which has a few historical houses but more importantly, a café with a shady terrace out the back. By now it’s 30°C and we’ve been riding in the full sun since leaving Saint-Aignan. A cold drink is most welcome.

Jean Michel studies the map again and tells me we’ll be able to leave the main road soon and take a smaller road. It does not happen. The smaller road is now part of an industrial estate. However, we are nearly at Montrichard which has a beach on the Cher and, best of all, ice-cream.

La Plage restaurant & bar at the beach in Montrichard

It’s like being at the seaside ! We go to a restaurant bar appropriately called La Plage which even has a live band playing old time songs – not particularly melodious but it all adds to the ambiance. We have an excellent ice-cream from a smiling waitress before mounting our bikes and riding back to the car: a round trip of 46 K and 3 ½ hours in the saddle.

Aussie in France