Category Archives: Paris

Spring and Sunglasses

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I can’t help thinking that there should be some way, in a country such as France, of only having to work when there is no sun.  I’m sure that would still give us enough working days. I know I’ve already complained about the awful weather this winter and spring but there hasn’t been a lot of improvement since I last wrote.

Magnolia in bloom in the Palais Royal gardens
Magnolia in bloom in the Palais Royal gardens

Today, the sun came out and the temperature has actually gone up to 14°C. That’s not exactly warm enough to be sitting out-of-doors like my friend Redfern who’s learning French in Montpellier at the moment (and posting photos on Facebook to make me envious) but it’s enough to not want to be cooped up in an office.

Curie Cancer Institute selling daffodils on Place Royale
Curie Cancer Institute selling daffodils on Place Royale

I could see the sun on the Palais Royal fountain from my office window so after lunch, I found an excuse to go outside. The white magnolia next to the fountain is now in full bloom and the pink one next to it will soon be out as well. There are daffodils and jonquils in all the flowerbeds. This time, I didn’t make the mistake of not wearing my parka but I still found the air surprisingly nippy.

Jonquils and daffodils in the Palais Royal gardens
Jonquils and daffodils in the Palais Royal gardens

My excuse to go out was to buy another pair of sunglasses. There must be some trick not to breaking or losing them that I don’t know about. If anyone can fill me in, please do. I seem to go through two or three pairs a year – and I don’t even wear them in winter. The only ones I manage to keep are my photogrey cycling glasses because I religously put them back in my bike bag at the end of the day.

The only sunglasses I don't lose!
The only sunglasses I don’t lose!

My fashionista daughter, Black Cat, is always saying, “You’ve got new sunglasses again”. I don’t know how she can even remember what the last ones were like. I certainly don’t. So, as a result, I don’t buy those expensive ones.

Sunny Seville in spring with its famous oranges
Sunny Seville in spring with its famous oranges

They come from all over the world – Australia, Seville, Hong Kong, Basel, Ljubliana – you name it. First, you have to track down who sells them. In Australia, for example, the starting price at an optician’s is way beyond my budget, which is not the case in France, which they always have a shelf of no-brand sunglasses. In Australia, the cheap ones are in pharmacies, I discovered on my last visit.

Sunny Brisbane most of the time - Goodwill Bridge
Sunny Brisbane most of the time – Goodwill Bridge

Explaining what I want in another language isn’t that easy, but the lady in the optician’s in Seville was very helpful and I found a lovely pair, very reasonably priced. Black Cat said they looked very trendy. I wonder what happened to them?

Galerie Vivienne from Rue Vivienne
Galerie Vivienne from Rue Vivienne

Today, I went to a couple of optician’s in Rue des Petits Champs (home of the lovely Galerie Vivienne) but their non-brand-name ranges weren’t very good. I have uneven eyebrows so I have to make sure they are both covered.  I ended up at the Optical Discount in Rue Vivienne where I usually buy my contacts. I told the man that I wanted some cheap ones but with good optical quality. He told me the glass is  exactly the same as the brand names, that only the frame is different, which was reassuring. I don’t want to damage my eyes, after all.

Sunset approaching from my balcony
Sunset approaching from my balcony

I found a pair I liked and he gave me a nice hard case, not too big so I can put it in my handbag, and I only paid 33 euros. We’ll see how long these last!

It’s Still Cold in Paris

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I got caught in the cold today. I was working away in my office and suddenly realised there was sun streaming in through the windows so I thought I should make an effort and go outside. I looked at the temperature and saw it was 9°C but I figured it would be warmer in the sun. So I put on a light wool coat instead of my winter parka. I was over optimistic and nearly had my hands and ears frozen off.

Sun coming through my office window in the Palais Royal
Sun coming through my office window in the Palais Royal

I went into the Palais Royal gardens first to check the state of the vegetation and was delighted to see that the magnolias are just coming into bloom. In a couple of days’ time, they’ll be out completely. Which reminded me that we don’t have a magnolia in Blois, but the only place we could put it is behind the house in our little wood.

Magnolias starting to bloom in the Palais Royal gardens
Magnolias starting to bloom in the Palais Royal gardens

I wanted to buy some soapless soap (pain dermatologique) so I went to the parapharmacie which is like a drugstore or a pharmacy, but without any medication, just skincare and hygiene products, cosmetics, first aid etc. The products are usually cheaper than you would pay in a normal pharmacy. This one’s in avenue de l’Opéra. The annoying thing is that they’re all arranged in brands. I was looking for a particular brand whose name I can’t remember but I’m sure I’ll recognise it when I see it!

Sun on the fountain in the Palais Royal gardens
Sun on the fountain in the Palais Royal gardens

I went to another parapharmacie near rue Coquillère on the other side the gardens but it’s turned into a real pharmacy with a snooty pharmacist running the show. Half the shelves were empty and all she could offer, apart from Avène which I didn’t want because it becomes gluggy after a couple of weeks of use, was Lipikar by La Roche Posay. At 5.20 euro a piece, it’s going to be a luxury shower but I was too cold to go anywhere else.

New smoothie bar on rue Coquillère
New smoothie bar on rue Coquillère

I walked back down rue Coquillère past L’Imprimerie and was surprised to see that one of the two little corner shops (which a friend of mine aptly calls PADC – petit arabe du coin – little Arab on the corner) has turned into a smoothie bar. The other shop doesn’t even have a name any more. I obviously don’t get out enough to see all these changes.

Nameless PADC
Nameless PADC

I took a little detour to go past Serge Luten’s perfumery in Palais Royal gallery next to Miss Bibi on the way back home and admired their new window display. You can’t beat them for originality, can you?

Serge Lutens window in the Palais Royal
Serge Lutens window in the Palais Royal

What a friend we have in cheeses – Salon Mer & Vigne et Gastronomie – How to Tip When Abroad

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This week’s bloggers’ round-up is dedicated to three bloggers whom I haven’t yet featured on Aussie in France: Lisa Rankin from Flavors of Paris recounts the first time she came across an open-air cheese stand; Donna Morris from Best Friend in Paris introduces us to the twice-yearly Salon Mer et Vigne wine and seafood fair; while Whitney Webster from Context gives us very useful tips on how to tip. Enjoy!

What a friend we have in cheeses

by Lisa Rankin in Paris and Michael Lutzmann in Ontario from Flavors of Paris, two Canadian foodies, madly in love with Paris, who give food-based guided tours that offer experience of local areas, ranging from exquisite cheeses and charcuterie to heavenly chocolate.

Man-Cheese“Each sort of cheese reveals a pasture of a different green, under a different sky.”

—Italo Calvino

The foggy Saturday morning rains had come in veils, like the northern lights, washing the cobbles. Fool: I’d left my umbrella at the tiny two-star hotel the airline had given me for mucking up my return flight to London. It was midsummer 1994; Paris was in the throes of World Cup fever. I’d made up my mind to wait out the rain in a café beneath a canopy when suddenly the clouds fissured and the rain stopped. Read more

Salon Mer & Vigne et Gastronomie

Donna Morris from Best Friend in Paris, a transplanted North Carolinian is a different sort of tour guide who shows visitors what she knows from living in Paris, both the major monuments and the tiny streets they wouldn’t find for themselves.

DSC03101If you’re lucky enough to be in Paris during the Fall and Winter months, there are often special event tradeshows that showcase food and wine, tourism, agriculture,chocolate – you name it.  The shows are meant to offer the producers a chance to meet their public and sell directly to them.  I buy all sorts of stuff and always end up with an overflowing (and heavy) caddy.

The Salon Mer & Vigne is held around the country and comes to Paris twice – in February and September.  It’s a great show for sampling products, buying for yourself or as gifts, having a meal (they serve oysters and other regional specialties) or just wandering up and down the aisles taking it all in.  I challenge anyone though, to go and not leave with something! Read more

How to Tip When Abroad

By Whitney Webster from Context, a network of scholars and specialists—in disciplines including archaeology, art history, cuisine, urban planning, history, environmental science, and classics—who, in addition to their normal work as professors and researchers, design and lead in-depth walking seminars for small groups of intellectually curious travelers.

tippingAnyone who has sat in the back of a taxi cab fumbling foreign currency while frantically trying to remember the right amount to tip (is it 5%? 10%? Just a few coins?) knows that it’s a good idea to research local customs around tipping before visiting a new city. It’s tempting to assume that, when in doubt, better to overtip than appear stingy, but it turns out that in some countries, this is a very bad idea. We chatted with our local experts in each of the non-North American cities where we operate to find out exactly how, and how much, it’s appropriate to tip. Read more

Oh no, snow again in Paris!

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When I woke up and saw the snow yesterday, I was not happy. I was already in spring mode and the idea of temperatures below zero AGAIN was not appealing in the least. As it was, we were very lucky to have got home from Blois without being trapped for hours like many weekenders from Normandy.

Snow in the Palais Royal yesterday morning
Snow in the Palais Royal yesterday morning

It snowed ALL DAY and I was not tempted to go outside. However, I had signed up for a Tweet-up organised by Tom and Monique Reeves from Discover Paris and since it was being held in Caveau Montpensier just across the Palais Royal gardens, I donned my warmest clothes and set out in the falling snow.

Snowing in the Palais Royal in the afternoon
Snowing in the Palais Royal in the afternoon

Not surprisingly, there weren’t many of us there but small numbers have their advantages because I was able to talk to most of the people present. Afterwards, Adrian Leeds who runs a real estate agency for expats, Lisa from Flavors of Paris who runs walking/tasting tours in Paris, Donna Morris from Best Friend in Paris, who gives localised tours of the city, and Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris, whose very interesting posts I’ve often featured in my Wednesday’s Blogger Round-Up, walked down the road to have Japanese food at Higuma.

Snow on the pyramid at night
Snow on the pyramid at night

As we left at about 9 pm, despite the wind and sleet, Mary Kay said she was going to the Louvre to take photos. I couldn’t resist and shall be eternally grateful. Otherwise, I would NEVER have taken this photo! Our hands were excessively cold by the time we left but it was certainly worth it.

Snowing on the Louvre
Snowing on the Louvre

Mary Kay then suggested that I come back again early next morning because the pyramids would be looking great with the snow and ice in the sun. When I fell out of bed at 8 am (I am not an early bird by any manner of means), I must say that the view outside my window was very tempting despite the fact that it was zero degrees.

Snow in the Palais Royal gardens this morning
Snow in the Palais Royal gardens this morning

So after a quick breakfast I put on my heavy-soled walking shoes and set out, walking gingerly over the icy patches like everyone else. I felt sorry for the smart executives with their high heels and leather soles but I didn’t see anyone actually fall. There were some young Japanese tourists sliding across Rue de Rivoli but I wasn’t taking any chances.

Empty chairs in the Palais Royal garden this morning
Empty chairs in the Palais Royal garden this morning

The sun over the icy pyramids really was wonderful but I had to keep putting my hands back in my pockets after each photo to stop the frost bite.

Sun on the Louvre pyramids
Sun on the Louvre pyramids

When I got back to the appartment, I drank a whole pot of hot tea!

Sun on the Rue de Rivoli wing of the Louvre
Sun on the Rue de Rivoli wing of the Louvre

Change of Plans in Snowy Paris – New EuroVelo Website Launched – Updated Restaurant Guides

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This week’s blogger round-up features three very different posts. Carolyn Barnabo from My Sydney Paris Life, unable to take the Eurostar back to Great Britain, perfectly echos what a lot of  us in Paris feel about yet another fall of snow. Maggie LaCoste from Experience France by Bike brings us one of her usual exhaustive cycling posts, this time on launching of the new EuroVelo website, while Abby from Paris Weekender, oblivious to the snow – but then, she’s in New York at the moment – has updated her very useful Paris restaurant and bar guides which I strongly recommend that you download. Enjoy!

Change of Plans in Snowy Paris

by Carolyn Barnabo from My Sydney Paris Life, writing about global families and change and life in special geographic places that have captured her heart.

eiffel_towerMarch snow in Paris. No Eurostar. No UK friends to greet at Gare du Nord.

What else to do when the weather thwarts our plans than venture outside for a walk in the quartier? We last enjoyed a snowy walk in January, which seemed appropriate then. The 12th of March isn’t that late but still, today’s snow seemed out of place to me, perhaps because Saturday — was it only three days ago? — was so wonderfully warm. Read more

New EuroVelo Website Launched

by Maggie LaCoste from Experience France by Bike, an American who loves biking anywhere in Europe, but especially France, which has the perfect combination of safe bike routes, great food, great weather and history

eurovelo_networkBicycling in Europe just keeps getting better and better!  The European Cyclists’ Federation has announced the debut of the new EuroVelo website, a long-awaited resource for the long distance European cycling network.

As promised, the new website will be a great source of information for trip planning on the 14 EuroVelo routes.  Each of the EuroVelo routes will have its own page with information ranging from route maps showing the status of stages along the route, lodging and support services and things to see along the way.  There will also be links to more detailed information from each country along the route.  The website is available in German, French, Dutch and English. Read more

Updated Restaurant Guides

by Abby from Paris Weekender, an American living in Paris who offers suggestions for Paris weekends, either staying put or getting out of town

It’s that time again – time to share my latest Paris food & drink finds. Below are the latest bars and restaurants that I have added to my guides. As always, “**” signifies some of my real favorites. Purchase the updated print-ready PDFs of my bar and restaurant guides, as well as my Mini Guide to Paris here.

French:

  • L’absinthe (1st) 24, Place Marché St Honoré, Tel. 01 49 26 90 04. Located in the lively Place Marché St Honoré, this restaurant offers friendly service and a mix of traditional and modern cuisine in a traditional setting. Outdoor seating also available. Read more

Why Inge Came to France

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One of my greatest pleasures in teaching at the university in France was meeting young people from English-speaking countries across the world and learning about their hopes and aspirations. My French Life, the global community of French and francophiles connecting like-minded people in English & French, has just published my interview with Inge Laino, who is both tour guide and translator and manager of Paris Muse which gives private guided tours of Paris art museums. Enjoy!

Why Inge Came to France

inge_laino_2_myfrenchlife_maviefrancaise“I can say that I have accomplished most of what I set out to do: join the Peace Corps, go to Africa, live in France and master a foreign language.” I don’t think many people of Inge’s age could say the same thing!

A New Yorker from Queens; Italian on her father’s side and Flemish on her mother’s, Inge went with her parents and four older siblings on holiday to Belgium every year.  “I HATED it… I didn’t speak Flemish and I hated being in linguistic exile. Read more

 

Hotel Dieu: The unexpected inside of Paris’ oldest hospital – Itinerary Planning 101 – Map of Literary French History

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Three very different posts in this Wednesday’s Bloggers Round-Up: Yetunde from Like Home in Paris takes us on a guided tour through an unexpected venue: Paris’ oldest hospital, Jo Karnaghan, in her usual practical way, gives excellent tips on how to plan an itinerary (part 3, so don’t miss the others) while Stephanie, the Llamalady from Blog in France, has found a wonderful French site connecting up geographical locations and famous French writers. Enjoy!

Hôtel Dieu: The unexpected inside Paris’ oldest hospital

by Yetunde from Feels Like a Home in Paris, local Paris holiday rental specialists, who blog on tips, happenings & lots of food & drink from the city they love.

hoteldieuVisiting Notre Dame on Ile Saint Louis in Paris, you can’t help but notice the rather large Hôtel Dieu hospital close by. It has maybe even shown up on a few of your photos but have you ever been inside?

It would never strike me as a normal part of my day to enter into a hospital unless I really have to. I have only ever visited two emergency rooms in Paris and needless to say that I hope to never have to do it again. But when you consider a hospital that was built between the 7th and 17th century you have to take pause and notice it. Read on

Itinerary planning 101: Part 3 – the finishing touches to your travel plan

by Frugal First Class Travel, an Australian who loves to travel – especially in Europe – and who has gradually learned how to have a First Class trip on an economy budget, without missing out on anything!

greatistanbul-comHow are you going with your plans for your latest itinerary?  Have you got a good outline of where you are going, your budget and how you are planning on getting about?  In the final installment of this short series we fill in the blanks with all the special moments that will make your trip one to really remember……

1.  List all the things you want to do in each of your destinations

Taking into account the length of time you have in each destination, make a list of all the things you want to do for each of your destinations and prioritise them. Read on

Map of Literary French History

by Stephanie, the Llamalady, from Blog in France, an Irish llama and alpaca breeder living in the centre of France, who also runs a carp fishery and a holiday gite

Here’s something rather interesting – it’s a crowdsourced interactive map of France that allows you to discover quotations or descriptions about various destinations in the country by famous French writers.

Zoom in to the area of France that you’re interested in on the Google map in and you’ll see little blue flags. The quotations are linked to these. I was of course interested to see what’s been written about my local area. As I suspected, George Sand had a lot to say about the place. Here’s her (George Sand was the pen name of Amantine Lucile Aurore Dupin) view of Boussac. Read more

Premises of Spring in Biting Cold Paris to Greet the New Bells at Notre Dame

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On the way to the Sainte Eustache market on Sunday,  delighted to have sun at last, we walked past a garden bed of primroses. I couldn’t believe it! The vendors at the market were bright and cheery this week as well. It’s amazing what a little sun can do to the morale of the population in the throes of winter.

Newly planted primroses in Rue du Louvre
Newly planted primroses in Rue du Louvre

However, by 3 pm, when I joined my Australian cousins from Armidale who are visiting Paris at the moment, the sun had disappeared and it was biting cold. We met up in a café just near Paris’ beautiful Gothic town hall and I suggested that even if they were stilling feeling a bit cold, it would be better to remove their anoraks inside so that when they went outside again, they wouldn’t feel the cold as much.

Sporting shorts at the market despite the temperature!
Sporting shorts at the market despite the temperature!

When we came out, we could see the newly renovated golden spire of the Conciergerie in the background. We crossed the bridge towards Notre Dame where I was surprised to see a grandstand, then I remembered the bells. Notre Dame is celebrating its 850th anniversary this year and one of the major events is a new set of bells.

Conciergerie in the distance
Conciergerie in the distance with its golden spire

Marie, Gabriel, Anne-Geneviève, Denis, Marcel, Etienne, Benoît-Joseph, Maurice and Jean-Marie arrived in Paris last Thursday on two 43 tonne trailers from Villedieu-les-Poëles in Normady with a motor cycle escort. They’ll be on exhibit in the nave of Notre Dame until 25th February, which probably explains and longer than usual queue ! Their first peal is scheduled for 23rd March.

Notre Dame from the temporary grandstand
Notre Dame from the temporary grandstand

The grandstand, which can seat 800 people, is designed to offer visitors a unique view of the cathedral’s three porches and rose window, whose details are difficult to see from the ground. It certainly is spectacular although you can no longer stand back and fully appreciate its majesty. It seems that all sorts of sound and light shows are scheduled up until 24th November. I shall wait until it’s a little warmer and go and have a look.

Braving the Weather to go to the Market in Paris

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Every Sunday, when we are in Paris, we go to the local market at Sainte Eustache, regardless of the weather. We have an addiction to fresh fruit and vegetables, fresh fish and, of course, oysters on Sunday. When it snowed last week, we wondered how many vendors we would find. As we walked out the front door, I nearly slipped on the ice on the threshold despite my new shoes. After that, I was extra careful!

Motorcycles in the snow
Motorcycles in the snow

We walked past motorcycles, vélib’s and a Christmas tree covered in snow until we got to the ATM at the bank. I felt very sorry for the bag lady inside the makeshift tent even though it was positioned over a warm air vent. It’s very sad to see the number of homeless people constantly increasing in the streets of Paris and even more noticeable in winter.

Bag lady in her cold tent
Bag lady in her cold tent

When we got to the market, we discovered that most of our regulars stall, including the oyster vendor, were there. But hardly any customers! We buy our fruit & veggies from a serve-yourself stall so I made sure I took the produce that HADN’T been covered in snow and cooked the more perishable vegetables (zucchini, eggplant, capsicum) that evening.

Lonely market in the snow
Lonely market in the snow

The people I felt really sorry for were the fishmongers. They have to pick up the fish and weigh it, then clean it. Their hands must be completely numb. Mine were freezing and I was wearing my rabbit-fur-lined leather gloves from Italy. There wasn’t a lot of choice, but that was understandable. The fish monger thanked us for our “fidelity” when we left.

Oysters on Sunday in the rain
Oysters on Sunday in the rain

By the next Sunday, all the snow had disappeared, but it was very cold and rainy and windy so we took our big rainbrella as Leonardo used to call it. This time, the fruit and vegetables were soaking wet. My hands were completely frozen by the time I had stuffed a kilo of spinach leaves into a plastic bag. Next time, I might just take a pair of rubber gloves along!

Queuing for organic vegetables in front of Jet Lag
Queuing for organic vegetables in front of Jet Lag

What amazed me most was the long queue at the organically grown produce stall, right down as far as the Jet Lag café! The wind was whipping around us and there they all were, stoic as ever. It’s strange they preferred the rain and wind to the snow though.

Early (or late) after work at L'Imprimerie
Early (or late) after work at L’Imprimerie

We went past L’Imprimerie on the way home with its “After Work” sign in English. You wouldn’t really think it was the right time of the day or day of the week, would you?

You can see the gypsies, who have been accosting tourists, dispersing as the machine guns arrive ...
You can see the gypsies, who have been accosting tourists, dispersing as the machine guns arrive …

Now, the weather has got much warmer – 10°C today – so I was able to go powerwalking in the Tuileries Gardens. Reminder to self: you still need gloves at 10°C.

Celebrating Christmas in France – Great Resources To Help Plan Your Bike Trip to France – Wineries/les vignobles

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My Wednesday’s bloggers’ round-up this week starts with fellow Australian Kathy Stanford from Femmes Francophiles who’s been having a holiday from blogging but after a recent trip to France, she’s fortunately back on the job. So I’m starting with her authentic experience of Christmas in France with a French family. Next Maggie LaCoste from Experience France by Bike lists resources to plan a bike trip in France, including my beloved Loire Valley. Jill from Gigi’s French window, also Australian, compares cellar doors in France and Australia. Nothing could be more different! Enjoy!

Celebrating Christmas in France

by Kathy Stanford from Femmes Francophiles, an Australian who an ongoing passion for France and the French language just back in Australia from two months in France

christmas_femmes_francophilesMy love for La France is intrinsically linked with my passion for food. I have been extremely spoilt in staying with Valérie who is a generous and wonderful cook. In France the main meal at Christmas time is usually on Christmas Eve. Valérie’s son Grego offered to prepare this meal. Having lost weight for a film role he had been dreaming about an extra special Christmas Eve dinner. He devised the dishes, bought the ingredients and then he and Valérie worked as a team to create the dishes.

We started with champagne, foie gras on toast, radishes, carrot, foie gras and fig macarons from Pierre Hermé. I was rather sceptical about the foie gras and fig macarons as I have only ever known macarons as a sweet rather than something savoury. They however worked very well. I even bought some for New Year’s Eve. Read more

Great Resources To Help Plan Your Bike Trip to France

by Maggie LaCoste from Experience France by Bike, an American who loves biking anywhere in Europe, but especially France, which has the perfect combination of safe bike routes, great food, great weather and history

usseCyclotourism is getting to be big business in Europe, worth somewhere around 45+ billion Euros per year to the European economy.  This is great for you and me because countries like France, (and Germany, Austria and Switzerland) want our business.  Their improving their marketing efforts and they are rapidly stepping up efforts to provide better information on major routes.  Don’t get too excited, this doesn’t mean that you will have an easy time finding information on all major itineraries.  But it does mean that access to better information is improving, more of it’s offered in English, and the result is easier trip planning. To kick off the new year and bike trip planning season, let’s take a look at several major websites to see how they can help you decide where to go and where to bike. Read more

Wineries/les vignobles

by Jill from Gigi’s French Window, French ponderings from an Australian who must have been French in another life

lulu coco gigi 165This year I have decided to search out and enjoy all sorts of ‘french experiences’ right here in the land down under…

I made a start last weekend by  visiting a local winery…well it was an hours’ drive away, but I didn’t have to take a 2 day trip across the world!

But first some ‘pics’ to compare….

Last May, the ‘travelling bridesmaids’ and I went for a beautiful Sunday stroll along the tiny winding roads of Cassis,  southern  France.  We thought we would try a wine tasting, have lunch..you know  how it goes….well the walk was fabulous, the scenery amazing…but none were open to the public!  It seems that tourism doesn’t come into play with french vineyards..(these ones anyway) .I think it must be all too serious a business for  that! Read more (and don’t forget to read the comments as well)

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