Category Archives: Loire Valley

Weekly Blogger Round-Up: New Year etiquette in France – Christmas produce markets – Authentic restaurants in Budapest

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For this week’s Blogger Round-Up, I have two posts related to Christmas and one from a new member of the blogosphere on Budapest. Phoebe from Lou Messugo explains the do’s and don’t’s of wishing people a merry Christmas and happy new year in France while Susan from Days on the Claise takes us to the last market before Christmas – but it’s not too late because the same scenario will be repeated for New Year. Our new blogger is Anda from Travel Notes and Beyond whom you have already seen in one of my earlier posts. You’ll love her suggestions for authentic restaurants in Budapest. Enjoy! 

Merry Christmas, don’t mention New Year

by Phoebe from Lou Messugo, a traveller, francophile, expat, mum and foodie now living in Roquefort les Pins where she runs a gîte after many years of travelling and living in Asia, Eastern Europe and Australia.

Christmas_cardsIt’s the build-up to Christmas and every time I see someone I won’t see again until after the new year I wish them a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year…if I’m speaking in English to a non-French friend.  However, if it’s in French to a French friend then it’s a more generalised greeting “bonnes fêtes de fin d’année” which means happy end of year celebrations and is more like the American “Happy Holidays”.  I could say “joyeux noël” (happy Christmas) though it’s less common but I mustn’t wish them a Happy New Year.  It’s considered bad luck to wish Happy New Year before midnight on the 31st. Read more

The Last Market Day Before Christmas

by Susan from Days on the Claise, an Australian living in the south of the Loire Valley, writing about restoring an old house and the area and its history and running Loire Valley Time Travel.

loches_market1Saturday was the last market day in Loches before Christmas. I took a few pictures to try and give a sense of market shopping, but to be honest, it isn’t easy to take photos and shop at the same time.

Standing in line at the cheese stall. Note the pair in the background exchanging the standard cheek kisses in greeting. The cheese stall had twice as many staff as usual and there was still a queue, so they were doing good business. Read more

Restaurants in Budapest

by Anda from Travel Notes & Beyond, the Opinionated Travelogue of a Photo Maniac, is a Romanian-born citizen of Southern California who has never missed the opportunity to travel.

butapest_mattjas-pinceBudapest is not short of good restaurants, cafés, and bistros, but finding real authentic ones that are also a good value for your money is not easy. As in any big city with a plethora of choices, visitors get confused by the internet reviews and recommendations, often sponsored by the restaurants themselves. Like many others ahead of me, I had my fair share of disappointments and paid my price for the knowledge I gained in this field. Below is my list of recommendations, based on what I feel makes a good value restaurant. Read more

 

 

Snakes in the Wood Pile

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We arrive at the sawmill in the middle of Cheverny forest just before midday and not at 11.30 am as planned. We can hear machinery but can’t see any people. We finally see a man pull up in a large truck and get out. Jean Michel goes over to talk to him.

Arriving at the sawmill
Arriving at the sawmill with not a soul in sight

I can see them arguing. Oh dear. They both come towards me and I learn that the man knows nothing about the wood we ordered on the phone at 10 am. I check my trusty iPhone to tell him the number we rang. “Yeah, well”, he says (in French, of course), “it’s the right number but it’s up at the office along the road a bit and no one told me anything about someone wanting firewood. And we’re about to knock off for lunch.”

The pile of wood we are to help ourselves to
The pile of wood we are to help ourselves to

In the end, he calms down and so does Jean Michel and we are shown a large pile of 50 centimeter logs. Wood in this country is sold by the stère which is a cubic metre of wood usually cut to 50 cm lengths. He has a look at the trailer and tells us that when we’ve filled it we can go over to the work canteen and get someone to come and measure it.

The trailer backed up as far as possible to the woodpile
The trailer backed up as far as possible to the woodpile

Jean Michel backs up the trailer as close as he can to the wood pile without getting it stuck in the mud. I’m glad I’m wearing my big boots, thick socks, a polar fleece windcheater, anorak, cap with ear flaps and working gloves. It’s about 5°C but sunny.  Another man arrives, much more cheerful than the last, and measures the trailer. We come to the conclusion that it can take 2.40 stères at 51 euro a stère. He leaves us to it.

Some of the equipment in the sawmill
Some of the equipment in the sawmill

We start picking up logs. Jean Michel explains I mustn’t take whole logs. They have to be split at least once. After we’ve sorted through the ones closest to the trailer, he climbs into it to start stacking them up. Some of my logs get rejected. Too short apparently – some are only about 40 cm. I’m instructed to get the tape measure out of the car. I can’t find it of course which doesn’t go over well. How come I don’t automatically understand what sort of logs I’m supposed to be getting? I tell him to stop being so snakey (well, my language was maybe a little bit stronger than that …).

Thinking about teatime in front of fire gives me extra energy
Thinking about teatime in front of fire gives me extra energy to move the logs

By then, I have removed the anorak, the windcheater and the cap. When he’s finished stacking he gets the tape measure (on the floor was the instruction he failed to give me) and I keep measuring the logs until I’m sure I can judge the size correctly, ignoring him as best I can. He has to climb up onto the woodpile and throw logs down to the bottom near the trailer. I start collecting some others (carefully measured) from the back of the pile so I won’t be (accidentally) struck by the logs.

Throwing the logs around seems to have a positive effect on his mood and he surprises me by apologising for his snakiness.

Our nicely stacked woodpile
Our nicely stacked woodpile in the bike shed (and former pigsty)

It takes us about an hour to fill the trailer. The friendly man wanders over and measures our pile. We write out a check and off we go.

The woodpile at the back against the ugly wall that is waiting to be rendered ...
The woodpile at the back against the ugly wall that is waiting to be rendered …

After a well-deserved lunch, I go back to my translating while Jean Michel spends the next three hours unloading the wood and stocking it in two piles, one behind the house and one under the steps in the bike shelter. The woodpile has a lovely oaky smell. We’re waiting to see how long the wood will last before we have to go back to the sawmill. But it now seems that we need smaller bits of wood as well …

Photos of the week – Through my window in Blois

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Sunrise from my office window in Blois
Sunrise from my office window in Blois
Morning frost from the same window
Morning frost from the same window
Late afternoon suj
Late afternoon sun

We’ve been having lovely weather in Blois – very cold, with minus temperatures at night and sometimes throughout the morning followed by bright sun and blue skies. The view from my office window is unfortunately marred by those horrible cables. They’re supposed to go underground in a couple of years’ time.

For more photos of Blois, you can visit my photo site Blois Daily Photo.

An Anniversary Celebration at La Maison d’à côté in the Loire Valley

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Last year Jean Michel and I also celebrated the anniversary of our meeting in the Loire and were very disappointed with the restaurant we chose. This year, we were much luckier.

biscuiterie_chambord

We arrived early too early for lunch at Montlivaut which is about 20 minutes from Blois in the direction of Saint Dyé sur Loire and on the way to Chambord so Jean Michel had the excellent idea of going a bit further on to Maslives where there is a shop that sells our favourite biscuits de Chambord. After stocking up, we went back to La Maison d’à côté (the house next door) in Montlivault and were the first patrons.

inside

Jean Michel made his usual joke about reserving the whole restaurant, I took a few photos and we sat down. We admired the resolutely modern decor with its beautiful wooden beams.

champagne

We started with champagne, forgetting we were in Touraine (we should have remembered to order vouvray), but it was excellent and accompanied by some delicious little nibbles so we had no regrets. There is a weekday midday menu at 19.50 (dish of the day and dessert) but we were celebrating after all so we chose a starter, main dish and dessert for 39 euro. We had a choice of three dishes each time. You can also have a starter + main or main + starter for 29 euro or an Expression Menu chosen by the chef for 50 euro (including cheese) or 65 euro (including a second starter).

patience

We were brought a patience on a cauliflower theme with an almond biscuit while waiting for our foie gras served with compote.

foie_gras

I then had veal with “forgotten vegetables” while Jean Michel had pintade (guinea fowl) with potatoes.  Both were delicious. I chose a glass of local cour cheverny while Jean Michel had a glass of burgundy.

veal

For dessert we had apple crumble and icecream and a lemon and almond dessert. Not very specific, I know, but unless I write them down (which I didn’t), I never remember the details.

crumble

In any case, everything was delicious. The products were of excellent quality and very fresh.

lemon_dessert

Madame Laurenty,the chef’s wife, told us that her husband buys from small producers all year round. We explained that as we are new to the area, we are still finding our way around. She recommended various markets, particularly Amboise on a Friday and the market at the Halles aux Grains in Blois on a Saturday and Montrichard.

chef

When we talked about our difficulty in finding fresh foie gras to make our foie gras for Christmas while we are in the Loire this year, she suggested we talk to the chef. Ludovic Laurenty is passionate about his profession and generous in sharing his knowledge. He buys his foie gras from a producer in the south-west of France where they sing to the geese while they are force-feeding them so that they won’t be stressed.

outside

We are going back to Montlivault next Thursday because Monsieur Laurenty is expecting a delivery of fresh foie gras and has offered to provide us with one. This year we want to try the coarse salt method so I’m hoping the Mesturet Restaurant will share its recipe on FaceBook. I’ll keep you posted !

La Maison d’à côté, 25 route de Chambord, 41350 Montlivault. Tel 02 54 20 62 30. 
Closed Tuesday and Wednesday all year round. Open Friday evening, Saturday midday and evening and Sunday midday only from 17th November to 6th December.

Moving from Paris to the Loire

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At 20, I lived in Townsville on the north-east coast of Australia and dreamed of living in France. When I arrived here for good at 22, I spent a week in Paris then went to an assistant teaching post in a town called Pau in the south-west of France which has a population of 100,000, very similiar to that of Townsville,  because I wanted to be close to Spain to improve my Spanish.

View of the Pyrenees from the Boulevard des Pyrénées in Pau
View of the Pyrenees from the Boulevard des Pyrénées in Pau

The next year I was posted to Nantes, on the tip of Brittany and the Loire Valley, which had a population of 400,000. My next move, a year later, was to Fontenay sous Bois in the eastern suburbs of Paris. I stayed there for nearly twenty years, after which I moved into the very centre of Paris 8 years ago, just near the Louvre.

A view from our balcony in the centre of Paris
A view from our balcony in the centre of Paris

This time next year, I’ll be living full time in Blois because Jean Michel is retiring on 10th October and we will have to vacate our apartment in the Palais Royal because it is part of his job. There is no way we can afford to buy or rent similar accommodation. While I was still teaching part-time at university (ESIT), we thought we’d find something in the Yvelines to the west of Paris so I could commute once a week.

Typical view of the Loire River with its many sandbanks
Typical view of the Loire River with its many sandbanks

Then I decided to stop teaching after fifteen years and go back to freelance translation full time which changed our options entirely. After friends bought a house in Amboise we started looking at possibilities in the Loire Valley and fell in love with Closerie Falaiseau in Blois, a full three years before retirement – it was the very first house we visited.

Closerie Falaiseau in June 2012
Closerie Falaiseau in June 2012

The house itself is much bigger than we intended to buy and has several other buildings – two barns, an old pigsty, a workshop, a wood shelter and a smaller house which we originally thought we’d turn into a gîte for holiday rental. For various reasons, one of the barns will now become the gîte.

The pigsty which now houses the rubbish bins
The pigsty which now houses the rubbish bins

In the meantime, we have turned the bottom part into a gîte for two people so that the house won’t be left empty for long periods and we can finance conversion of the barn which is currently only four walls and a roof. The gîte has been doing well and we’ve had excellent reviews. We’ve also met some wonderful people.

View from the house
View from the house

So for the past two years, we’ve been psychologically making the move from the centre of Paris to a small provincial town of 50,000 people.

Will we be bored ? That is the question. Judging from our time in Blois so far, I don’t think so although the longest we have stayed at a time is two weeks even if I came here by myself very often last winter while our balcony in Paris was being refurbished. This winter, with no one staying in the gîte, we’ll be coming down one or two weeks a month and for the whole of March before the next rental season begins.

Front steps in June when the roses are in full bloom
Front steps in June when the roses are in full bloom

As I get older, my interests have changed considerably. I used to go to every exhibition that was on. We often went to the theatre and cinema and out to dinner with friends. Now we focus a lot more on holidays and rarely go to exhibitions. Many of our friends are retiring and moving away from Paris as well.

Hollyhocks in front of the little house
Hollyhocks in front of the little house

We’ve already made new friends in Blois and in other parts of the Loire through the Loire Connexion. We spend a lot of time cycling when the weather permits, gardening, mushroom picking, taking photos and visiting châteaux and castles – not to mention renovating of course. This year, we’re able to make the most of our Renaissance fireplace that we spent a long time refurbishing last winter.

And we’ll never be far from Paris – it’s only a couple of hours by car and 1 ½ hours by train.

Top Tips for Wine Tasting

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You may remember a post about Michelin-star restaurants that I included in my last Wednesday’s Blogger Round-up written by The Good Life France, an independent on-line magazine about France and all things French, covering all aspects of daily life including healthcare, finance, utilities, education, property and a whole lot more.

As a result, the editor, Janine Marsh, asked me to write a guest post, and here it is!

wine-tasting-5

Top Tips for Wine Tasting

Just in case you’re wondering about my credentials for giving tips on wine tasting, Jean Michel and I have spent the last 15 years wine tasting and attending numerous beginners’ and advanced wine classes. As members of a cercle oenophile (wine buffs’ club) we have developed an efficient strategy for wine tasting in many of France’s wine-growing regions.

For many people, the wine experience is an integral part of a holiday in France but there are so many varieties that they often don’t know where to start and many visitors hesitate to visit a winery (vignoble) on their own.

The cellar door (chez le propriétaire) in France is usually just that – right on the vineyard – except in larger establishments where there may be a store in the closest town. When wines are bottled by the wine grower, Mise en bouteille à la propriété (or au chateau) will be indicated on the bottle.

If you want personal contact and a more authentic experience, it’s best to aim at the smaller vineyards. Read more

LOIRE VALLEY VINEYARDS

And just to get you started, here are a few addresses:

Blois
Chez Laurent, cellar, wine tasting lessons, 5 rue Saint-Martin, 41000 Blois, 02 34 89 13 23 contact@chezlaurent.fr http://www.chezlaurent.fr/
Vinomania, cellar, restaurant, wine bar, wine tasting lessons, Place ave Maria, 12 rue du Poids du Roi, 41000 Blois, 02 54 90 17 66
Les Forges du Château, tearoom, cellar, 21 Place du Chateau, 41000 Blois
 
Vouvray 
Domaine Freslier,  cellar door, 92 rue de la Vallée Coquette 37210 Vouvray, 02 47 52 76 61
 
Touraine
Domaine du Prieuré, cellar door, 41120 Valaire, 02 54 44 14 62
 
Chinon
Domaine de La Roche Honneur, cellar door, 1, rue de la Berthelonnière, 37420 SAVIGNY EN VERON , 02 47 58 42 10, roche.honneur@club-internet.fr


 

 

Monday’s Photo of the Week – Blois autumn afternoon

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This winter we’ll be spending quite a lot of time in Blois. This photo was taken from the Mail Saint Jean riverside road looking towards Vienne with Pont Gabriel on the right. The second photo was taken downstream of the same bridge. The river as suddenly picked up speed.

pont_gabriel_bloispont_gabriel_downstream

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