When we leave Andelfingen after six wonderful days of cycling along the Danube, the weather forecast for our next stop – Aschach in Austria – is not promising. As we’ve never been to Munich, we decide to stop for a couple of hours on the way.
Marienplatz in Munich during the Stadtlaufmüncher marathon
Unfortunately, there is a big annual sports event on – 10,000 people running a marathon or semi-marathon – and the main square, Marienplatz, is chock-a-block which somewhat detracts from the historical ambiance. We see the main sights beneath an overcast sky, have a picnic lunch on a bench (it’s a fast day) and continue on our way.
Passau
After leaving the motorway at Passau at the juncture between Austria and Germany, which we visited on another occasion, we drive along the Danube, much wider and navigable here, seeing the aftermath of the recent floods. The river looks muddy and there is silt on the edge of the pavements and piles of debris everywhere. Nothing like the bucolic scenery we have left behind in Germany.
The church in Aschach
At the turnoff to Aschach, large production installations loom on the right and I begin to worry about what we’ll find. From the internet photos, our hotel, Gastof zür Sonne, seemed to be right on the water but, in fact, it is across the road. A not-very-friendly young man gives us a key card and sends us up to room 4 on the second floor.
Gasthof zür Sonne in Aschach
As we walk into the room, I see the wash basin is in an open area on the left ; the shower and toilet are behind a frosted glass door on the right. The room is small with dark furniture including an open wardrobe and a view of the Danube. I go into complaint mode and Jean Michel says I have to make up my mind whether we are staying or going. By then it is 6 pm and looking for another place to stay seems a bit daunting. I go down to the desk and ask if there is another room that doesn’t have a wash basin in the entrance. It seems they are all the same.
An iron door inside the Gasthof zür Sonne
We bring up our luggage and bits and pieces and I empty our small case into the wardrobe so we can change into our cycling clothes, pointing out all the negative aspects of the room as I go. Jean Michel understandably starts to get annoyed so I stop complaining. It is then that I realise that an automatic light comes on over the wash basin/entrance each time you go past which means that when I get up in the night, the whole room will be flooded with light.
The Danube at Aschach in the evening
Even Jean Michel sees the impossibility of that! We go back down and I put on my best smile to ask how to stop the light coming on automatically. The young man comes up reluctantly to have a look. However, he immediately understands the problem and says that unfortunately all the new rooms are like that but we can have the “old” room next door. Not only is the washbasin inside the bathroom this time; the open wardrobe is hidden behind the door, the room is much bigger and we have a sofa from which we can comfortably see the Danube.
An enormous cruise ship on the Danube at Aschach
This time my smile is not forced. “Perfect”, I say. “And look, the washbasin is not in the entrance”. The young man then explains that he thought I was objecting to the bathroom being on the left, not about the washbasin being in the entrance (he didn’t know the word in English). We rapidly change into our cycling clothes and get in an hour’s cycling before dinner.
Swans on the Danube at Aschach am der Donau
That, however, proves to be the last time we cycle for several days. It rains all night and next morning, it’s 12°. Change of programme.
It’s funny how you can go to the same place twice and have a totally different experience each time. When we saw Ulm the first time, it didn’t seem at all attractive. Its famous Minster might be the tallest church in the world but it was dark and ugly in my books, particularly after all the beautiful rococco churches we’ve been seeing.
The minster in Ulm, the tallest church in the world
We couldn’t visit the inside because there was a concert on. Jean Michel was ready to leave without seeing anything else but I encouraged him to at least take a walk through the pedestrian streets nearby. There were a few old houses but nothing outstanding so we drove to Erlingen to start cycling.
Saturday market in Ulm
Next day, which was Saturday, we drove to Ehingen and took the train to Ulm. It was as though we were in a completely different town! There was a fresh produce market in front of the cathedral, which was open this time. Then we went to the Fishermen’s Quarter along the Danube and discovered the real soul of Ulm.
Fishermens’ quarter in Ulm
We had lunch at an old mill with a water wheel and cycled through quaint little streets with pretty little houses.
Ulm minster from the other side of the Danube
We then rode along the old ramparts overlooking the Danube and went across the bridge to the other side where the Minister looked much more attractive! What a pity it would have been had we not gone back.
Baroque library in Wiblingen Abbey
Not far from Ulm, we visited Wiblingen Abbey, another astonishing piece of baroque architecture including the abbey church, where a wedding was taking place, and a very beautiful library completed in 1744.
The balcony of the baroque church in Erbach
Another baroque church awaited us at Erbach, built on the top of a hill and commanding an extensive view of the surrounding area. Since Jean Michel has the map, I had no idea how steep the climb was and started too fast, spurred on by a car waiting at the top. To my dismay, we turned a corner and the road kept going. My legs were like jelly by the time I finally reached the church.
French cyclists carrying 40 kilos on their bikes, including a tent
We stopped at a roadside Gasthaus in the little village of Ersingen for a cold drink and were surprised to hear the couple at the next table speaking French. It turned out they were camping at the Gasthaus that night and had just ridden 90 kilometers lugging 40 kilos on their bikes. Not really my scene, I must say!
The asure spring in Blaubeuren
On another circuit along the Blau River north of the Danube, we visited the delightful little of town of Blaubeuren where the river comes out from under the ground in an azure blue pool.
Ceiling of the abbey church in Blaubeuren
It was no surprise that the Cistercian monks built a very large abbey there including a baroque church with a beautiful painted ceiling and a cloister.
Storks’ nest
On the way back, Jean Michel spied another storks nest.
One of our last views of the Danube near Andelfingen in Germany
The weather on both days was not as hot as the first three days, often cloudy and overcast, but we didn’t get any rain. The weather forecast for the next stage of our trip near Linz in Austria does not look promising though.
A total of 110 km, but it actually took two days. We’ve definitively adopted the train-in-one-direction system which means we can see more and not have to cycle up all those hills again on the way back. Jean Michel thought we should start with the source in Donau-Eshingen so we began day 2 by driving an hour to Tuttlingen and getting the train to Donau-Eshingen.
Donau-Eschingen, where the Danube begins
Although it was as sunny and hot as the day before (over 30°C in the afternoon), it was not nearly as pretty. Our first disappointment was that the source is undergoing renovation so is not open to the public. So after having lunch in Donau-Eshingen, we set out for Tuttlingen.
One of the canals along the Danube
The cycle route doesn’t always run along the Danube and we often rode through hay fields interspersed with flowers, which did, of course, have the advantage of mostly being flat. There were lots of irrigation canals, water irises, storks and covered bridges, but I missed the wonderful surprises of the day before. We didn’t see a single rococco church.
One of the many covewooden bridges over the Danube
On the way home from Tuttlingen, whose main attraction is its modern covered bridges, Jean Michel suggested we go to the lookout at Knopfmacherfelsen which is about 750 metres above the Danube.
View of Beuron Monastery from Knopfmacherfelsen
The view is absolutely breathtaking with the monastery in Beuron in the distance. We then drove down to Beuron to see the monastery up close. Access was through a covered bridge. It was a truly wonderful way to finish off the day.
Riedlingen
Fortunately, day 3 was not as hot (only 23° at 9 am), because was lucky because it was VERY hilly (and also an intermittent fast day). We drove to nearby Riedlingen and parked at the train station since we intended taking the train back from Ehingen. It’s a pretty little town, with lots of colourful half-timbered houses and painted façades.
Balcony in the church in Alstein
Before cycling along the Danube, we looped back to Altheim which our Gasthof owner had told us about. We found another beautiful rococco church with a painted balcony featuring bas-relief musical instruments. There was also a stunning vase of peonies which are very prevalent here and grow taller than they do in the Loire Valley.
A stork in a field
Back on the Danube we crossed a couple more wooden bridges and stopped for coffee in Riedlingen. We then passed several fields full of storks which obviously explains why there are so many shop signs and sculptures of storks in the villages.
Obermarchtal Abbey Church from the Danube
Our next stop was the Monastery Cathedral of Obermarchtel with more wonderful rococco and a balcony, but not as rich as Zwiefalter. As we came out, it was starting to spit which was a bit annoying as I had taken the rain capes out of the paniers. Fortunately, there were a few rumbles of thunder and nothing more.
The balcony at Obermarchtal Abbey Church
More hills and dales before we stopped at Munderkingen for a surprisingly good coffee. The sky was not looking very encouraging and we feared the worse. By the time we got to Rottenacker, about 7 or 8 K from our destination of Ehingen, fat drops were started to fall. We got a bit wet, but not soaked, and just made the train station in time.
Obermarchtal Abbey Church from the outside
When we got back to Andelfingen, where we’re not staying at Gasthof Sonne (that’s the next one!) but at Gasthof Swanen, Frau Smidt told us they had had golf-ball size hailstones! That was a lucky miss. Tomorrow I’m putting the rain capes back in the paniers.
And just for the record, despite our fast day (500 calories for me, 600 for Jean Michel), we cycled 61 kilometers including lots of hills. Tomorrow, we can have ice-cream and riesling again.
We wake up to another brilliant blue sky and by the time we’ve finished breakfast, it’s already 25°C. We decide to drive to Sigmaringen, about 20 K away and get ourselves a proper cycling map since ours isn’t detailed enough.
Animated main street in Sigmaringen
After paying 20 centimes for one hour’s parking (you wonder why they bother!) we wander through the quaint animated streets looking for the tourist bureau. The only thing they have is a not-very-detailed map of all the cycling routes in this part of Germany (Baden Württemberg). We regret not having ordered the Eurovelo 6 on the internet but we didn’t get our act together in time.
Sigmaringen Schloss with swans
We find ourselves a place to park near the cycle path and set out for Beuron, only to discover, after taking a multitude of photos of the schloss (castle), with and without swans, that a flower festival is temporarily occupying the banks of the Danube in Sigmaringen. So we ride along the main road for a while.
Typical scenery along the Danube with a church bulb in the distance
We finally catch up with the bike path on the outskirts and start to enjoy the beautiful scenery along the river. The temperature keeps rising but we don’t notice it while the path is flat because you always stir up your own little breeze when cycling.
When the road begins to climb however, we start noticing it! As cliffs start to form on either side, the path gets steeper and steeper. By the end, we are walking our bikes up and dripping with sweat. At the top, in the little village of Enzigkofun, we see a church with a white bulb and go inside to get cool off. We are rewarded with an amazing baroque gallery with the twelve apostles on either side of a crucifixion.
Kids canoeing on the Danube
Fortunately, the path then leads into a forest otherwise we might melt altogether. Suddenly it starts descending and I can’t even enjoy it because I keep thinking about having to ride back up again on the way back. At the bottom, when I catch up with Jean Michel (I’m always reluctant to go down too fast in case I skid or something), I tell him that I really don’t think I’m up to the return journey.
Lunch in the shade at Gasthaus Mühle in Dietfurt
“I have a proposal”, he says. “We can take the train back from Beuron.” I shout with glee. After lunch at Gasthaus Mühle in Dietfurt, where we cool off under the shade for an hour and eat enormous salads, we’ve only done 15 kilometers out of 38 but Jean Michel reassures me that there are no more hills.
Werenwag Schloss that I don’t want to cycle to
Well, he’s wrong. Most of the path from Dietfurt to Beuron is up hill and down dale in the boiling sun, with a few shady stretches to save the day. We round a corner at one stage and Jean Michel points out a shloss on a high hill towering above us. “That is one schloss I do not want to see”, I say. “Then I’ll take it off the list.” “Don’t let me stop you see it; I’m happy to stay down here and rest while you go up.” He very kindly says he’ll relinquish it for my sake.
Warenweg schloss up closer
Eventually we find somewhere to have coffee – Gasthof Neumühle in Tiergarten – and I suddenly remember the word eis so we have an ice-cream Sunday each. After all those hills – and the ones to come – I reckon we deserve it. The enterprising chef, Walter, looks up the train timetable for us and behind him, I see a plasticised Radweg brochure with all the Danube cycling maps we need. Bingo !
The waitress in her dirndle Gasthof Neumühle in Tiergarten
The ice-cream seems to give me new strength and I somehow get ahead during the next stretch. Jean Michel’s probably taking photos. I round a corner after another climb and see a large building on the right. It turns out to be Sant Maurus Kapelle and has painted scenes both inside and out. We buy a booklet but it’s all in German. I think it was built in 1861.
Sant Maurus Kapelle
At that point we see a signpost saying 6 K to Beuron. I thought it was only 3 which is a bit disappointing. I’m getting tired by this stage. We see the 5 o’clock train speed past so know we’ve got plenty of time to catch the 6.09.
Wayside crucifixion in Beuron
After a glass of riesling to cool off (a little early maybe but they don’t have any diet coke) at a local café opposite a crucifixion, we cycle down to the station which shows no sign of selling tickets. However, a lady indicates a little haus further along the platform which turns out to be a ticket machine – all in German, of course. However, after four tries we manage to buy one ticket and then another second.
Our little red train
The train arrives and we see there is a bike compartment. Yes, inside there is a large area to put our bikes and even seat belts to attach them. But there is no special system for hoisting the bikes up the steep steeps into the train. Fortunately, another passenger helps me.
Sigmaringen schloss from the train
It’s rather fun going past the places we cycled along, taking 20 minutes instead of 3 hours! Jean Michel amazingly knows how to get from the bahnhof to the car. He always surprises me with his sense of direction. Looks as thought it’s going to be hot and fine tomorrow again. But it’s going to be hard to beat today!
There’s thunder and lightning and pouring rain when we leave Paris at 9 am but after 3 hours driving east, the weather improves immensely and by the time we reach Germany, it’s an incredible 31°C and the sky is an intense blue. Now, that’s what I call holiday weather!
Zwiefalden Cathedral
We come round a bend and see a shining white bulb that turns out to be the cathdral of Zwiefalten completed in 1750. We have a cold drink at the bar opposite and visit the beautiful baroque interior just before it closes at 6 pm. It reminds us of the first time we saw a rococco interior in Germany. It was the Pilgrimage Church of Wies at the foothill of the Alps and we walked for hours up a hill. It was very plain from the outside, but the inside was extraordinary.
Baroque interior of Zwiefalden cathedral
The village itself is very pretty and peaceful, especially with its little stream.
Little stream running through Zwiefalden
After checking into Gasthof Sonne (sonne means sun) in Andelfingen, we change into cycling clothes and head for the Danube by car. We picnic before setting off on our bikes. We’re delighted to be in holiday mode so soon.
A typical view along the Danube
We pass several villages with their clean white houses and church spires along the path.
Wayside cross along the Danube
We’re amazed at the number of crosses along the way as well, often next to picnic tables.
Mengen church and house built in 1596
Fifteen kilometers later, we arrive at Mengen, a quaint little town with a tall spire, many colourful half-timbered houses, one of which was built in 1596.
Half-timbered houses in Mengen
They have a number of very large storks on the buildings which intrigues us. Many of the shop windows also have dummies dressed as soldiers in traditional garb, including a a surprising Beefeater but I stupidly forget to take a photo.
A very old house in Mengen
By the time we start on our way back, the light is waning and we reach the car just before it gets dark. As soon as we open the door to Gastof Sonne, we are greeted by welcome coolness. One thing I did not worry about when booking our accommodation was air conditioning and I was afraid we were in for a sleepless night! We need to be fit for tomorrow’s 40 K!
We were staying near Stein am Rhein in Switzerland and on our way back from visiting Schaffhausen and its Rheinfall, the spectacular waterfall on the Rhine, I suddenly spotted the most amazing church in the distance. It turned out to be the Klosterkirche Rheinau monastery church, one of Switzerland’s most significant religious buildings. The original 12th century basilica, built on an island on a strategic bend in the Rhine River was rebuilt in the Baroque style in the first part of the 18th century and turned into a monastery church. The inside is quite stunning.
Klosterkirche in the distanceKlosterkirche monastery churchRheinau villageBaroque interior of KlosterkircheBaroque altar close upAnother view of Rhinau
This Wednesday, Jeff Titelius from Euro Travelogue takes us on a tour of Christmas markets in Germany with stunning photos that all look by picture postcards. Fellow Australian, Carolyn Lee, from Escape to Paris, gives lots of suggestions for maintaining your French when not in France and Bread is Pain talks about French phlegm. Enjoy!
In Search of Christmas: Germany Christmas Market Tour
by Jeff Titelius from Euro Travelogue: European travel impressions brought to life through the power of lens and pen.
Herald in the holidays and Advent this year with an unforgettable visit to one of Germany’s classic Christmas markets or Christkindlmarkts as they are known locally. Steeped in centuries-old traditions and customs, you can find a Christmas market in just about every landmark city and storybook village throughout Germany—town squares that come alive with the sights and sounds and smells of Christmas! Lining historic city-centre squares, hundreds of elaborately decorated Alpine chalets are brimming with traditionally hand-crafted gifts and festive ornaments, not to mention the savory indulgences of food and Glühwein or mulled wine of course—hard to resist after their tantalizing aromas reach your cold little noses! Read more
escape the tyranny of distance… and maintain your French
by Carolyne Lee, from Escape to Paris, an Australian writer, teacher, and researcher who tries to spend every spare moment in France
The great challenge for Australian francophones is maintaining our French, given our distance from France. Even with one or two trips per year, as some of us are able to make, there are still long fallow periods when we’re not using French for many months at a stretch. I’m always interested to hear other Aussie Francophones tell how they do their ‘maintenance’. The most fluent people, from my small and fairly random sampling, seem to keep up their French by reading French books on a regular basis, preferably daily, and this is also what I do. Read more
Freaking Out Frenchie
by Bread is Pain, a 30-something American living in the Rhone-Alps, and slowly eating and drinking herself through the country
So the other night MB and I were sitting watching an episode of French Masterchef. The contestants were in the middle of a challenge in which they had to create a thin hollow ball made of out sugar (not exactly like the BBQ challenges of US Masterchef). In one part of the challenge it was necessary to roll out and work the hot sugar “dough” which is at a dangerously high temperature, they have to wear special gloves. One contestant is working his dough and talking about how hot it is and how you must be very careful. The contestant next to him then accidentally sticks her naked elbow into the dough and lets out a scream. Read more
On this week’s list are two very pratical posts for those who will be travelling to France shortly. Holidays to Europe looks at the question of the best travel money card to take with you while Abby from Paris Weekender explains the best way to get to and from the different airpots in Paris. And, on a very different subject, Andrea from Rear View Mirror (who is also the author of Destination Europe) and taken to living the life of a nomad, describes a road trip to Berlin.
Which Travel Money Card is best?
by Holidays to Europe, an Australian based business passionate about sharing their European travel expertise and helping travellers to experience the holiday in Europe they have always dreamed of.
by Abby from Paris Weekender, an American living in Paris who offers suggestions for Paris weekends, either staying put or getting out of town
Unfortunately there is no perfect way of getting to and from the Paris airports, but below are my suggestions. Note that for the Air France bus (Car Air France) to and from Charles de Gaulle and Orly you can nowpurchase tickets online, and doing so will save you 10%. Read more
Road Trip Paris to Berlin
by Andrea from Rear View Mirror (formerly Destination Europe), a fellow Australian who, after 6 years of living in France, has given up herParis apartment to live a nomadic life slowing travelling around Europe, experiencing each destination like a local.
Driving directly from Paris to Berlin would normally take around 10 hours but there are so many fantastic places worth visiting along the way that you can make a great one to two week road trip out of it or even more if you prefer to travel slowly. I took around 15 days for the trip and stopped in seven cities between Paris and Berlin. The road trip looked like this:
Paris – Trier – Bacharach – Heidelberg – Schwabisch Hall – Nuremberg – Leipzig – Dresden – Berlin. Read more
This week, even Paris is on holiday. Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris has captured the essence of Paris Plage which has got off to a wonderful start with exceptional weather. It’s supposed to be 30°C every day this week. Andrea from Destination Europe reports on the delightful little German village of Bacharach-on-the-Rhine whcih will make you want to include it in your next trip to Germany while Experience France by Bike has lots of suggestions for wine festivals and events this summer in Burgundy. You can enjoy them even if you’re not a cyclist!
Sunday’s picture and a song – Paris Plages on a Saturday
by Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris, an American by birth, Swiss by marriage, resident of Paris with a Navigo Pass for the metro that she feels compelled to use
Vamos a la Playa! After weeks of grey skies and rainy weather, Parisians put on their flip flops and swimsuits and headed to the beach this morning. They didn’t have to travel far because the city of Paris has been creating an artificial beach along the Seine for its residents and guests since 2002. With deck chairs, ice cream vendors, bands, street performers and the smell of suntan lotion in the air, Stéphane and I felt as if we had been magically transported to a seaside locale.
To enhance the illusion, here’s the song that used to blast from the speakers of our little Fiat Uno as we whizzed along the highway from Switzerland to the beaches of Italy, Monaco or France. Listening to it now, I realize that it’s not a great song. But in those days, it was synonymous with freedom. No work, no worries…just long luxurious hours spent relaxing on the beach. Read more
Bacharach-on-the-Rhine
by Andrea from Destination Europe, also an Aussie Expat who’s been living in France for the last 5 years, food and travel blogger
While looking for a place to stay in between visits to Trier and Heidelberg, we stumbled across one of the most perfect German villages I’ve ever seen. Bacharach on the Rhine is made up almost exclusively of medieval timber framed houses with the oldest dating from 1368.
Sometimes when visiting Germany I get a bit bored with seeing this kind of architecture everywhere but Bacharach is so quaint and adorable I loved every minute I spent there. Each house is so well preserved and maintained it really is like stepping back in time. Read more
Biking in Burgundy: Upcoming Wine Events and Festivals
by Experience France by Bike, an American who loves biking anywhere in Europe, but especially France, which has the perfect combination of safe bike routes, great food, great weather and history
Are you fortunate enough to be cycling in Burgundy in the next couple of months? Perhaps bicycling on the Vineyard Trail in the Cote de Beaune, or along the Canal du Centre or Burgundy Canal voies vertes?
If so, why not plan to visit a local wine festival? If you’ve never stumbled upon a festival while touring the French countryside, you are in for a treat. They are an experience of a lifetime. They remind me of old fashioned festivals that I remember going to when I was a kid: lots of food, games, pony rides and music. And of course wine. Read more
This Wednesday’s features from other people’s blogs. Thanks to Judy McMahon from MyFrenchLife, a global community of French and francophiles connecting like-minded people in English & French, for her profile of Bruce McAleer, Vicki Archer, an Australia writer who lives between London and Saint Rémy de Provence and author of French Essence for her tips for travelling in Provence and Andrea from Destination Europe, also an Aussie Expat who’s been living in France for the last 5 years, food and travel blogger for her very informative post on visiting the Berlin Wall.
Bruce, can you please describe your business to us?
I offer day trips by bike from Paris to numerous locations in the countryside of Paris. My tours generally include a well-known destination (Chartres, Giverny etc.) but are mostly designed with getting off the beaten path in mind. We bike through scenic countryside, quaint country villages, medieval towns and pass by various châteaux. I take people to unknown places not covered in guidebooks. Read more …
I am often asked about travelling to Provence and while I am neither an expert nor a travel guide I do love Provence with all my heart. I spend most of my year getting there, being there and dreaming about there… I thought I would put together a series with travel tips, websites and information that might help when planning a trip… Simple details, that I take for granted… yet if I had known them way back… it would have made all the difference… Read more
Imagine getting a new job, moving into a new apartment and spending just one last night in your old apartment only to wake up in the morning to find you have been barricaded in by a barbed wire fence with no way in or out. You have no access to your job or belongings. Read more
