Category Archives: France

Australia, France, Loire Valley, Paris

Taking the Train to Paris Like A Real Provincial

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This is my first experience of commuting to Paris from Blois. I have to go up to teach a double class at uni today.  I’ve discovered I can take two types of trains – TER and TGV. The first is quite cheap – 26 euros – while the second is a lot more expensive. I’m meeting up with Relationnel in Tours on the way back so we can buy a Henri II desk we saw in leboncoin.com and since my class doesn’t finish until 5 pm, I’m travelling in peak hour, which is costing me a wacking 59 euros. I could take a later train but that would mean waiting around in Paris and it would be too late to get the desk.

You can’t reserve a seat on the TER (I have to change in Orléans anyway) but since I didn’t leave until 10.42 (I love the way the times are so precise), there were plenty of places. I do have a reservation on the TGV though – it’s compulsory. I bought both tickets over the Internet on www.sncf.fr.  For the TER, I had to put my VISA card in the ticket machine at the station to have the ticket issued. I immediately put it in the puncher because I often forget and suddenly realise in the train that it isn’t « composté » as they say in French.

The TGV reservation is quite different. I have to print out an e-ticket and show it to the inspector on the train when he comes around. I have a new printer back in Blois that I haven’t set up yet. I started to look into it this morning but I couldn’t follow what the little drawings were telling me to do. I’ll have to get Relationnel onto it during the weekend. I much prefer written instructions that I can understand. So I’ll ask the nice secretary at my uni to print it out for me. I just mustn’t forget! You’d think I could have it on my iPhone the way they do for boarding passes but I couldn’t see any options indicating that on the Internet.

The problem is that I don’t really like trains. I don’t know why. I’m always afraid I’m going to miss it or get out at the wrong place or something. The first time I took a train, I was about 20. A friend and I took the Sunlander from Townsville to Brisbane, then from Brisbane to Sydney on our way to Noumea. I think it took about 48 hours in all. The first train was a steam engine if I remember correctly. Maureen’s mother had made boiled fruit cake and all sorts of goodies so we did a lot of eating on that trip.

The train from Brisbane to Sydney was far more chic and we had a compartment of our own with a toilet and shower.  Not like the Sunlander with its open toilets that you couldn’t use in the station! Trains are far more popular in France and, on the whole, are efficient and on time (except when there are strikes of course, but that’s almost a national hobby). Having said that, we left Orléans 10 minutes late but I had plenty of time to take a photo of the rape fields. At least today I don’t have any luggage, just my trusty laptop, even though it’s a bit heavy to lug around.

I’m now in the TGV and it seems I could have clicked on “Download” on the email on my iPhone instead of printing out the ticket. I’ll know for next time!

France, Lifestyle, Loire Valley, Renovation

The Henri II Buffet Finds its Place

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With the kitchen and bedroom more or less completed, except for the decorative elements, the next room on the list was the living room starring the Henri II buffet I mentioned in a previous post.  For transport purposes, it had to be separated in two so Relationnel and I were able to wheel each half down the road from our “little house” next door (which he will be renovating after his retirement) on two little trolley affairs that can each take 200 kg and are very practical. You just have to strap them onto each end of the furniture properly so they don’t escape when you go over the rough bits.

Relationnel then repaired all the bits and pieces that had gradually come loose  over the years. We decided where it would go (very easy because there is only one wall wide enough) then put the lower half in place. That was the easy bit. The top half (which is excessively heavy solid oak I might add) sits on top of a backboard and two little columns. I put my lumbar belt on and some anti-skid gloves and we hoisted it up onto the edge of the bottom part. Then we started lifting it up on top of the columns which promptly fell over (of course). We quickly realised however that there was not actually enough ceiling height under the beams. Back down onto the floor.

So Relationnel said we’d take the top curlicue bit off. Even then there was not enough room to raise the upper half high enough to slide it onto the columns. There seemed to be no solution until I suddenly had a brilliant idea. If we turned the whole thing lengthways and used the space between the beams to lift it high enough, we could then turn it the right way afterwards. I got a « bravo » for that! However I then didn’t have enough strength to lift the top half high enough to get it on top of the columns. But Relationnel managed to hoist his side up and while I steadied it, he came and lifted my side.

Now that it’s there, I can tell you, it won’t be going any further and I’m sure I can turn the curlicue into something very decorative.

France, Lifestyle, Loire Valley, Renovation

Our Favourite Barbecue is Back!

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On our third night in Blois, we finally had a barbecue with our Barbecook, which is a story in itself. When we were married nearly 14 years ago, it was a second marriage for both of us and we each had two children so finding an appropriate date was not easy, let alone having a honeymoon as well! We did manage an overnight stay in Honfleur though and visited Bayeux next day. And we found our barbecue! Not very romantic you might say, but it’s a wonderful barbecue (and don’t forget I’m Australian). It operates on a really neat system. You put newspaper in the cyclindrical part, then the charcoal on the fire grille, on top of which there is another grill for the meat. You light the barbecue with a match through a hole near the red knob halfway down the cylinder which is used to adjust the air flow (and therefore the heat). It’s really very clever and you don’t need any « starters ». Even I can light it (not that I ever do!).

You may remember that to send my last post, we intended to go to Le Penalty, which turned out to be closed on Mondays as luck would have it. But Relationnel had the wonderful idea of parking outside and seeing if there was a connection. It worked! Unfortunately, Le Penalty is located on one side of a roundabout where you obviously aren’t supposed to park so he had to keep a watch-out for the police. Then of course, my battery was running low but Relationnel has a transformer in the car so I was able to recharge the laptop provided we kept the engine running. Not very environment-friendly I’m afraid.

But apart from the Internet connection, we are slowly getting things up and running. The kitchen furniture is all in place and part of the decoration is finished. When we have breakfast, we can watch all the birds that come to eat the seeds left by the previous owners. I’m a newcomer to bird feeding/watching. It seems you should only put out seeds and fat during the cold months. Otherwise the birds get lazy. There is a pair of blue tits who have built a nest in the tree just outside the window that we love watching.

The next room that is almost finished is the downstairs bedroom where we’re sleeping at the moment because we haven’t attacked the fireplace in the upstairs bedroom yet. I thought I had found a miracle product but unfortunately it doesn’t work. Relationnel put up the wardrobe today but initially found he couldn’t finish it because the hinge things were missing. Fortunately he realised later that he just wasn’t familiar with the system. We also cleaned the rug. Obviously one spray can was not enough so I had to go back to Carrefour and get some more.

I didn’t really mind because, although it’s about 6 km away, you drive through a lovely forest mysteriously called Route du Rain de la Forêt to get there. The leaves are all tender green. And the people in Carrefour are unbelievably friendly. While I was waiting for the butcher to come, the fishmonger came and asked me if I was being served then went off and found the butcher. When I was searching the shelves for the carpet shampoo, a shelf stacker actually asked me if he could help! At the checkout, when I said I hadn’t found the nutcrackers, the lady went and looked for them. They didn’t have any after all, but she came back with a smile. This is definitely not the service I’m used to in Monoprix on avenue de l’Opéra.

I can tell already that I’m going to love living in Blois.

Accommodation, Australia, Cooking, Food, France, French customs, Lifestyle, Paris, Sightseeing, Travelling, Wine

Favourite Paris Wine Shops – Phone App: Google Translate – Creating a Healthy French Pantry

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Where to buy wine in Paris, a helpful traveller’s phone app and healthy eating the French way are  the subjects featured in my Wednesday’s Other Blogs this week.  Thank you to Like Home in Paris (vacation apartment rentals in Paris), Femmes Francophiles (fellow Australian blogger with an ongoing passion for France and the French language) and Mademoiselle Slimalicious (a young Sydney-based French blog writer who promotes healthy eating, fitness and exercise based on the principles of the French Paradox).

Sipping on Saturday – Favourite Paris Wine Shops

from Like Home in Paris

I know who I go to ask when I have a wine question or can’t decide which glass to take – Preston Mohr, that’s who. Our favorite drinking partner tells us about his favorite wine shops in Paris and believe me you’ll want to take note. Read more

Phone Application: Google Translate

from Femmes Francophiles

Translation apps are a growing market. No longer do we need to fossick in back packs or handbags for our bilingual dictionary or phrasebook. No doubt there are now young international travellers who have never had to worry about the weight associated with carrying these books with their dog-eared pages.  Read more 

Creating a Healthy French Pantry

from Mademoiselle Slimalicious 

Cooking at home (rather than ordering take-away) enables you to be fully in control of what you eat by being aware of the nutritive value of your meals. In order to manage your weight efficiently (the way French women do), it is important to make cooking everyday one of your priority.  Read more.

France, Loire Valley

The Keys at Last!

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Well, we’ve now spent our first night in the new house in Blois. We finished packing the two cars and the (now reinforced) trailer at 2 am on Saturday morning, then added the bikes (which we had forgotten) and all the last-minute stuff, all of which took much longer than expected (isn’t that always the way?). We arrived in Blois at 3 pm, a bit later than planned. The real estate agent and former owners were waiting for us and it was with great emotion that I turned the key in the lock for the first time!

It was marvellous to discover the house at last, empty of all its previous furniture and decorative elements (well, almost). The rooms looked much bigger of course and not quite the same shape. The previous owners then took us on a tour of the house and garden, explaining various things, showing us what they had left for us – many little details that are much appreciated, in addition to a huge collection of clay pots of all shapes and sizes that I haven’t decided what I’ll do with yet!

After the agent left, we broke out the champagne and the four of us talked and joked until we suddenly realised it was nearly 6 pm. Relationnel wanted to find a special slow-acting product to sanitize the house before we unpacked everything, particularly as it had been inhabited by a large number of dogs over the years. On the way to Bricorama, I suggested that, given how late it was, it might be a good idea to find a B&B for the night. Relationnel immediately agreed. On a Saturday night, of course, there was nothing vacant within cooee of Blois so I rang the Mercure. They happened to have a weekend special so I emptied out my swimming bag and used it to pack a change of clothes rather than lug along our large suitcase.

There was a free wifi connection and even a restaurant so we ate there. There was an amusing bilingual menu – the coquilles Saint Jacques (sea scallops) had mysteriously turned into red mullet and you could have house-made pâté. We had our café gourmand next to the heated pool but couldn’t use it of course because the swimsuits were back at the house. We even had breakfast there next morning, with a view of the Loire – one of the best I have had in a French hotel as it turned out. There was even a machine that delivered fresh-pressed orange juice. Excellent choice of viennoiseries (croissants, pains au chocolat and pains aux raisins), bread, yoghurt, dried fruit, fresh fruit, etc. Also a boiled egg machine with no instructions so I didn’t take the chance …

We asked the girl at reception where we’d find a butcher open on a Sunday morning and were directed to a place called Grand Frais. We’ll have to get used to shops being closed on Sundays in the provinces ! Not much of a choice of meat but we still found something suitable for the LONG-AWAITED BARBECUE (our barbecue has been in storage for 7 years as it’s not allowed in the Palais Royal) and went “home”, opening the gate and door on our own for the first time. We were thrilled!

We spent the day unpacking and chasing after a fridge and finally got the (Ikea) bed together at 8.00 pm. By then I’d aleady booked a table at L’Embarcadère just down the road where we celebrated the signature of the final papers two weeks ago. So much for the barbecue. Maybe we’ll strike it lucky tonight. We’ve got a garden table and were able to have lunch outside for the first time. No internet however. Annoyingly, there’s some problem that may not be solved for a few days so we’re off to Le Penalty to have a coffee to use their free wifi.

France, Italy, Lifestyle, Paris, Sightseeing, Travelling

Pickpockets on the Metro in Paris – Siena – an Italian escape – Burgundy at a Glance

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The posts from other blogs that I’m featuring this Wednesday are by American blogger Mary Kay, from Out and About in Paris, who is a fund of useful and interesting information and will help you have a pickpocket-free holiday, fellow Australian and photographer Karina from Carams who takes us to Siena in Tuscany and Doni Belau from Girls’ Guide to Paris who recommends a visit to Burgundy as a day trip or weekend out of Paris. Thanks to them all!

Monday Morning Musings on Pickpockets on the Metro in Paris

by Mary Kay, from Out and About in Paris

After dodging holiday shoppers and having my foot run over by a renegade baby stroller while visiting the Christmas Market on the Champs-Elysées yesterday, Stéphane, Sara and I decided to take metro line 1 from George V to Tuileries to have some hot chocolate. As we always seem to arrive at Angelina’s just after it has closed for the night, I stood on the metro platform with my back to the wall to check their opening hours on my iPhone. Stéphane and Sara were facing me, we were speaking English and for all anyone knew we were tourists in Paris. Read more.

Siena – an Italian escape

by Carina at Carams

Up until last year when we found ourselves in the area, Siena had never been near the top of my travel list. Yet there we were one morning, driving winding roads through Tuscan valleys, following signs to the old city, named (according to legend) after Senius, son of Remus, of the Remus & Romulus duo. Read more

Le Petit Weekend: Burgundy at a Glance

by Doni Belau from Girls Guide to Paris

As much as all Parisians love Paris, they also adore a petit weekend—a getaway, either a day trip from Paris or an entire weekend. Recently, during autumn, I hightailed it out of the city for a wine-tasting trip to Burgundy. My friend Kelly and I headed for Beaune, which is perfectly situated to explore both côtes, Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune. Read more

Australia, France, Lifestyle

Daylight Saving in France

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Cycling in Briare after dinner

I do, of course, love the long summer days when it stays light until 11 pm. Cycling after dinner is particularly attractive. What I don’t like is the actual changeover because it puts me out-of-kilter for at least a couple of weeks and I’m not a good sleeper at the best of times. Black Cat tells me that everyone in the metro was overly aggressive in the metro this morning because they all had to get up an hour earlier than usual! The changeovers take place around about 21st March and 21st October each year.

Relationnel never manages to remember whether he has to put his clock back or forward each time. In French they say “avancer” or “retarder l’heure” meaning “putting the time forwards or backwards”. Of course with all the electronic equipment we have these days, it’s much harder not to know about the changeover and miss a train or something though I noticed the clock on the car hadn’t changed yesterday.

Unseasonable weather in Paris

We’ve been having unseasonably warm weather too (not that I’m complaining!) which means that no one was very keen on going to bed an hour earlier than their biological clock last night either. I can remember how difficult it was to get the kids onto the new time when they were little. I even joined a lobby group in the hope that daylight saving might disappear altogether, but it didn’t do any good.

It all started of course for purely materialistic reasons. According to the French finance ministry, “Daylight saving (or l’heure d’été – summer time – as they say in French) was implemented in France in 1975 after the 1974 oil crunch with the aim of saving energy by reducing lighting, particularly in the evening. Today, it is estimated that 250,000 tonnes of oil equivalent (toe) are saved each year as a result of daylight saving in France”. So, there’s not much hope of a lobby group having any effect!

It seems that daylight saving goes back to Ancient Times and was resurrected by Benjamin Franklin in April 1784 in a well-known satire. The next person to promote the idea was New Zealand entomologist George Vernon Hudson. He was a shift worker and used to collect insects in his spare time so obviously wanted as much daylight as possible. He presented a paper to the Wellington Philosophical Society in 1895 proposing a two-hour daylight-saving shift. It didn’t catch on though until an Englishman,William Willet (poor man with a name like that), published a pamphlet in 1907 called “The Waste of Daylight”. He thought up this really complicated system of putting the clock forward by 80 minutes in 4 stages in April and then back again in September. No wonder it took another 9 years to be voted in by the British parliament, by which time poor Willet had died of the flu.

Ireland, Italy and France followed suit as did most of the other European countries after the War. But France did away with daylight saving in 1946 and didn’t bring it back until 1975, the year I arrived in France. Having been born and bred in North Queensland, I’d never experienced daylight saving before. Queensland is still holding out against the rest of the country but there’s a lot more lobbying these days, particularly by groups such as the The Daylight Saving for Southeast Queensland Party.

So now, Leonardo (who’s in Sydney) and I are 9 hours apart instead of 10. For the moment, I don’t know whether it’s better or worse.

And thank you, Wikipedia, for all the facts and figures!

Australia, France, Loire Valley, Paris

Gardens I Have Known

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I spent my first 9 years in France living in a flat and biding my time until I could have a house and a garden again. It finally became a reality when I was pregnant with Black Cat and Leonardo was nearly 2 1/2. It was a funny sort of a garden, 10 metres wide by 30 metres long, but typical of the area which used to have a lot of orchards with espalier pear trees. I was into organic food then and we grew apples, hazelnuts, black currants, red currants, tomatoes, strawberries and, best of all, raspberries which the kids loved to pick for dessert. We also had the most wonderful old style rose bushes with the most divine scent.

Before I had my own roses, I didn’t particularly like them but the garden had an enormous variety and I took immense pleasure in picking them to give to my friends who didn’t have gardens. There was a lovely yellow one which started out pink and a red rose whose petals felt like velvet. I was so sad when we grew a hedge of thuya bushes for privacy and it crowded out most of the roses. We realised the damage too late.

 

When I divorced, I had to give up my garden but I was lucky enough to find a ground floor flat with a small garden that we gradually turned into a mass of flowers. We had trumpet creepers and clematis, hollyhocks and azaleas, columbines and delphiniums, irises and forsythias and even a lilac bush, all of which would all suddenly appear after winter. Every year in November we’d plant lots of tulips, jonquils and hyacinths, tiny pansies and cyclamens. We had lilies of the valley for May Day as well.

In the summer, we’d plant masses of busy lizzies, geraniums and nastursiums. Our hanging pots were filled with petunias and begonias. Just thinking about it makes me nostalgic! Then we moved to our apartment in Paris overlooking the Palais Royal gardens. We couldn’t even have window boxes at first because it’s a listed monument. But I finally convinced Relationnel into letting me have planters on the sills of the French windows that you can’t see from the other side.

So you can imagine how much I’m looking forward to our new house in Blois. I can’t wait to see the shrubs come into flower and discover all the different species in the garden. The little wood at the back is full of daffodils and primroses and even tiny ground orchids. I know there are hollyhocks because I’ve seen the leaves but no one has mentioned any columbines or delphiniums. There’s a climbing rose on the front stairs but it looks a little lonely so I’ll have to see what company I can find. And I can’t wait for the wisteria to bloom in April!

France

Spring in Paris

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My monthly post has just been published on MyFrenchLife. This time, it’s about spring. We’ve been cooped up and wrapped up for so long now that the warmer temperatures, new leaves and blossoms and blue skies feel like heaven!

Spring is hardly a very original subject, is it? But spring will always remain a source of wonderment for me. You see, I come from tropical North Queensland and until I was 22 I only knew about spring from books and poems. Read more.

Food, France, French customs, Lifestyle

Dijon more than cuts the mustard – Coffee Culture in Paris – Open a Bottle of Wine with a Shoe –

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Bringing you Wednesday’s selection of posts from other Anglobloggers on France. This week, Weekend in Paris, Femmes Francophiles  and French Entrée. Many thanks!

Dijon More Than Cuts the Mustard

by The Weekend in Paris – Paris advice that is practical and fun

A weekend in Dijon is just the ticket for anyone who wants to get out of the hustle and bustle of Paris and get down to some serious fun. A mere 1 ½ hours by train from Paris, Dijon has it all…world-class museums, top shopping, fab wine tasting, amazing walks along the most charming streets and yes, the famous Dijon mustard. Read more …

 

Coffee culture in Paris

from FrenchEntrée.com – France for Australians

© French MomentsWhen I lived and worked in Paris, coffee was the one thing that continually frustrated me. How could a country which is famous for its food and wine, serve such bad coffee? This is a question that has left me baffled on many occasions in what is otherwise my favourite country – Rachel Guernier investigates.   Read more…

How to Open a Bottle of Wine with a Shoe

from Femmes Francophiles

Some practical advice for that emergency situation when you have wine but no corkscrew. Not sure that this situation would arise in France. What self-respecting French woman or man would be without a corkscrew? See the video!

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