Category Archives: France

An Irish Band in the Loire

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One of the things most people worry about when they retire to a new area is isolation. It can take years to get to know the locals. So we’re very fortunate in our choice of Blois because we already have a whole network of English and French speakers. Each time we come here, there is some kind of event on. Last time I told you about the monthly get-together on the first Friday of the month  at The Shaker in Amboise.

This time, we went to hear an Irish band called The Palers playing at a private home in the little village of Cangey about half an hour from Blois. There were nearly a hundred people there including kids of every age. I don’t know about the boys but the girls had a wonderful time dancing to the music in the big old barn behind the house. Relationnel  and I love Irish music and have quite a few CDs of the Dubliners (which my kids don’t like at all!)

When we were in the garden having food and drinks before the performance, no fewer than four hot air balloons flew over. They looked so peaceful floating across the air, but I’m afraid with my fear of heights, I’m not tempted, even though I’m told that it’s not a problem when you don’t have your feet on the ground. Hot air balloon are called mongolfières in French after the two brothers who are said to have invented them in 1782, Joseph-Michel and Jacques-Etiennes Mongolfier.

But it wasn’t until the 1950s with the invention of the nylon balloon and the use of propane as a fuel that they came into widespread use, first in the United States, then in France in 1972. They’re extremely popular in the Loire Valley because they give you a wonderful view of the many châteaux in the region. The balloon is suspended above a wicker basket that takes up to 10 or 12 people. And only in the Loire do you find yourself behind one on the road!

An Original Engraving

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The first engraving I bought (I already had Captain Cook) was a Christmas present for Relationnel soon after we moved into the Palais Royal. It’s a coloured engraving of the Palais Royal gardens drawn by Fred Nash (1782 to 1856) and engraved by Edward Goodall. Instead of today’s rows of linden trees, planted very recently in fact (less than 20 years ago), there are various trees of different heights. The fountain was much higher and there’s even a man picking apples! Soldiers in tricornes and women in sun bonnets and brollies mingle around the garden very sedately. I love all the little historical details of engravings.

I had noticed various engraving and lithograph shops around the Palais Royal but their prices were a little daunting. However, during my wanderings, I came across a very small shop in rue Rameau called Christian Collin, where the people were very friendly and let me take my time looking through their collections. I’ve bought another couple of engravings since then to take to Australia as presents.

So next time you’re looking for something light and different to take back home, why not try an engraving or a lithograph?

 
Christian Collin
11, rue Rameau, 75002 Paris
Monday to Saturday, 1.30 pm to 7 pm
www.collin-estampes.fr

A Rose Garden in a Priory

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June is a wonderful month in the Loire Valley because all the roses are out. I’ve already told you the story of our Madame Meilland or “Peace” roses and our Pierre Ronsard climbing roses.  Yesterday morning, as we were having breakfast in the kitchen, which looks out into the courtyard in front of the house, I realised that the stone wall next to the front gate was looking a little bare. We discussed the possibilities and decided climbing roses would be the perfect solution.

So in the afternoon we went to visit the botanic gardens at Prieuré d’Orchaise, only 11 kilometers from Blois, who were selling rose bushes this weekend. This delightful 3 hectare park overlooking the luxuriant Cisse Valley, is next to a Romanesque bell-tower built in 1060 by monks from Marmoutiers. The garden’s founder, Hubert Treuille, has collected more than 2,000 varieties of plants from across the globe.

When we got there, we spoke to the very friendly and helpful gardener and told him what we wanted – a hardy climbing rose that would have lots of flowers very quickly. He suggested a variety called Saharan whose flowers change from pink to abricot as they mature. I didn’t find the potted example he showed us particularly appealing so he sent us to look at a well in the garden where the roses were growing.  It was so stunning that we immediately went back and bought it as it was the only one left!

We thought we should also have a climbing rose outside the front fence (well, it’s a stone wall really) on the second disused gate that we’ve just repainted. We initially thought we’d had to replace it altogether but after treating it for rust, repainting it and removing the black plastic from behind, it is as good as new and ready for our new Pierre Ronsard. We then got the gardener to explain how to prune our different rose bushes so that they would be as lovely as his.

I knew you had to cut off the faded roses but wasn’t sure exactly how. So he showed us that below the flower, you first have a cluster of three leaves, then five, so you should always cut just (on a slant) above the cluster of five. That way, you’re encouraging the new wood to grow. When you’re pruning in the spring, you have to cut off the dead wood and prune drastically.

After we’d bought our roses we then went to visit the rest of the garden which is very lovely and has a beautiful waterlily pond with cypresses in the background. We had just missed the peonies but will make sure we go there earlier next year during the peony weekend and buy a few bushes. And we’ll definitely be visiting regularly to get helpful advice from the gardener who even gave us his phone number!

Jardin Botanique du Prieuré d’Orchaise
Place de l’Eglise
41190 Orchaise
Video (in French) of the gardener talking about his peonies
http://prieure.orchaise.free.fr/
Open from 3 pm to 7 pm from 1st April to 31st October
Adults: €6 (free for children under 12).

Our Pierre Ronsard Roses

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Yesterday, we went to visit Mr and Mrs Previous Owner in their new modern home about 20 minutes from Closerie Falaiseau and I learnt that the climbing roses on our original Renaissance railing are called Pierre Ronsard after one of France’s most famous poets who was born in 1524 and died in 1585 in the Loire Valley, the year after our house was built. One of his best known odes begins “Mignonne, allons voir si la rose …”

The yellow rose in yesterday’s post is called Madame Antoine Meilland developed by a French rose cultivator, Francis Meilland, in the late 1930s and named after his mother. It’s better known as “Peace” in English and is an interesting story. To quote Wikipedia:

In early 1945 Meilland wrote to Field Marshal Alan Brooke (later Viscount Alanbrooke), the principal author of the master strategy that won the Second World War, to thank him for his key part in the liberation of France and to ask if Brooke would give his name to the rose. Brooke declined saying that, though he was honored to be asked, his name would soon be forgotten and a much better and more enduring name would be “Peace”.

The adoption of the trade name “Peace” was publicly announced in the United States on 29 April 1945 by the introducers, Messrs Conard Pyle Co.. This was the very day that Berlin fell, officially considered the end of the Second World War in Europe. Later that year Peace roses were given to each of the delegations at the inaugural meeting of the United Nations in San Francisco, each with a note which read:

“We hope the ‘Peace’ rose will influence men’s thoughts for everlasting world peace.”

 

Exploring Saint Germain des Prés – Mary Cassatt’s Greater Journey – Cycling France’s Atlantic Coast

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Wednesday again and more great posts from other people’s blogs. Fellow Australian Kathy Stanford from Femmes Francophiles is making the most of her stay in Paris and has come up with some more unusual visits, including Deyrolle’s taxidermy shop. The American Girls’ Art Club in Paris reviews “The Greater Journey” featuring the story of impressionist Mary Cassatt among others while Experience France by Bike takes us cycling in Basque country, perhaps one of the most scenic cycle paths on the Atlantic Coast.

Exploring Saint Germain des Prés – Deyrolle and Un Dimanche à Paris

by Kathy Stanford from Femmes Francophiles

Things don’t always turn out as you expect when on holidays. I hadn’t noticed that the Balabus tourist bus between La Defense and Gare de Lyon only operates on Sunday afternoons and public holidays. Having already walked to La Defense from my apartment I decided to take bus 73 to Musée d’Orsay. I wasn’t planning on visting the museum but the bus takes much the same route as the Balabus past some of Paris’s well known locations. Read more

Mary Cassatt’s Greater Journey

by The American Girls’ Art Club in Paris – Exploring Paris In The Footsteps of The Artists and Writers Who Came Before

In The Greater Journey (Simon & Schuster U.S. paperback edition available May 15), McCullough turns his storytelling gifts to the multiplicity of Americans who came to Paris between 1830 and 1900.

As McCullough says, “Not all pioneers went west.”

Among these pioneers were young men and women who would come to study art in Paris, including George P. Healy (who would go on to paint Abraham Lincoln’s portrait), John Singer Sargent, Mary Cassatt and Augustus St. Gaudens (whose Civil War sculptures and monuments can be found in parks all over the United States). Read more

Cycling France’s Atlantic Coast: The Coastal Path From Bayonne

by Experience France by Bike, an American in love with cycling in France who tries to come here as often as she can

If you love history, Bayonne is definitely a town that you will want to explore. Situated on the Nive and Adour Rivers, Bayonne has thrived both as a military stronghold and a bustling port, and both have contributed to the town’s history. The town is very unique and charming, dominated by its rivers and military fortifications. Bicycling along the quaysides, through the narrow streets of the old city, and along the town walls, you quickly get a sense of the history of this place. Read more

 

Small Town Fame

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I’ve finally cleaned up the honeysuckle that’s been nagging me since we got to Closerie Falaiseau in Blois. It’s just beginning to flower and is a wonderful complement to the climbing roses on the stair rail. We’ve had our barbecue and eaten outside in the garden comfortably for the first time since we bought the house. Well, comfortably except for the mosquitos who adore me. We’re going for an after-dinner walk so that I can show Relationnel how I want our front courtyard/garden to look in the future.

It’s still light, despite the fact that it’s after nine thirty. We’re walking briskly along the road, not a car in sight. We go round the bend and a large dog rushes out behind a fence, barking madly. I dutifully say “T’es beau, t’es beau” as Relationnel has taught me.  It seems that telling dogs they are beautiful is two syllables is what you do in France to calm them down. I’m not sure it works but I have no comparison.

Suddenly, we hear frantic yapping and a tiny ball of fur comes hurtling down the open sloping garden opposite and onto the road. A man about our age appears  lumbering after the dog, telling it to come back, to no avail. He explains that it’s a pup, only 6 months old.

“Oh, so that’s its problem”, I say. Relationnel introduces us as his new neighbours.

“Then you’re the people who’ve bought the big house around the bend.”

“Yes, do you know Mr and Mrs Previous Owner?”

“No, I only moved here two years ago myself. I only know the neighbours on each side of the house and across the road.”

“We’re not living here permanently yet. Relationnel isn’t retiring for another two years”, I explain.

“Yes, you’re going to turn it into a gîte or a chambre d’hôte or something”, he says to Relationnel.

“That’s right.”

And turning to me, “And you’re Australian”.

My fame has gone before me.

Can Bacon be a Vegetable? – Free Walking Tours given by Parisian Volunteers – Sipping on Saturday

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Welcome to Wednesday’s other blogs! This week, Bread is Pain talks about the problems of weight gain and loss when living in France, while Kathy Stanford from Femmes Francophiles describes a novel way of getting to know Paris. Gwen Evans, guest posting on Like a Home in Paris, which features vacation apartment rentals in Paris, describes a wine tasting session in the capital. Thank you to my fellow bloggers!

Can Bacon be a Vegetable?

by Bread is Pain

“Mwah!  Look at me, I am a big sausage!”  I am walking through the room dramatically, landing hard on each of my feet.  “Watch out, my fat sausage tread might bring the house down!”

“Quoi?”  MB is amused but not sure why.

“What do you mean “quoi”,” I ask.  “I’m a sausage person…obviously.

“I don’t know what this is, a “sausage person”.” Read more

Free Walking Tours given by Parisian Volunteers

by Kathy Stanford at Femmes Francophiles

Always looking for an opportunity to combine practising French and to visit parts of Paris that I have not previously seen in detail I decided to do a walking tour of Paris with ‘Parisien d’un jour – Paris Greeter‘.

Contact is made through their website specifying what language you want to do the tour in, availability and interests. The walks are provided free of charge by volunteers who are all Parisians passionate about their city. You can however make a donation to the association if you wish. Offers for various tours of 2 of 3 hours based on your interests are emailed to you and you choose which one you want. The group is limited to 6 people. Read more.

Sipping on Saturday: French Wine Tasting class with Preston Mohr

by Gwen Evans guest posting on Like Home in Paris

If you are like most American visitors to Paris, one of the big pluses is being able to sample wonderful French wines at very reasonable prices.  The downside of that is that it can quite confusing and intimidating when faced with so many choices — many of which are unfamiliar to us from the States.  Add to that the fact that a lot of the wine labels have very little if any helpful information, and it’s a bit of a gamble when you are at the store. In my 20 plus trips to Paris I have tried (mostly at random) lots and lots of different wines, both red and white, and have never really had a bad bottle; for between 4 and 10 euros you can get some amazingly good wine. Even the equivalent of “2 buck chuck” here is a whole lot better than the stuff back home. Read more.

 

Favourite Flowers

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Peonies are one of my favourite flowers. They don’t come out for long but as soon as they do, I buy them on the market on Sundays. I like the pale pink ones best. We have a bush growing in the garden of our “little house” (next door to our Renaissance home) in Blois but one’s definitely not enough so I’ll be planting more, maybe even trying my hand at cuttings. In the background of the photo, you can see the lovely watercolour that Black Cat brought back unharmed all the way from Australia at the end of her study year, despite the weight restrictions!

Another flower I love is the orchid and I’ve learnt how to make the flowers come back again the next year. Leonardo used to buy me one each year for my birthday in April and I was delighted when two of them reflowered recently. Brainy Pianist took up the tradition in Leonardo’s absence and added a beautiful specimen to my collection. When the flowers die, you cut the stalk off after the third “eye” and keep watering regularly. In September, put it outside if you can, to simulate the tropical winter, and next spring, you should see a little shoot appear! My little April violets have been reflowering each spring for many years now.

Tiny pansies are just so cute, with their delicate faces, and they come in every imaginable colour combination. I’m thinking about where I’ll grow them in Blois.  We came across these in a public garden bed when cycling near Château d’Ussé. Absolutely irresistable! It’s a favourite ride in the summer, as the road leading to the castle which is set up on a hill, is flanked with sunflowers in summer.

I’ve always dreamed of having a house with wisteria in front. Mr Previous Owner must have pruned ours at the wrong time this year because it looked very meagre compared with his photos of the house from last year and other specimens in the neighbourhood such as this one, in the very same street. Venice in the spring when the wisteria is in bloom is absolutely breathtaking as you can see if you click on the link to my Sunday’s Travel Photos.

 

Waterlilies and, in particular, the nympheas in Monet’s garden in Giverny, immortalised in the oval rooms in the Orangerie Museum in Paris, are something I love too. I have a special connection with waterlilies. When I was born, my father, a true romantic, went out to pick them for my mother. He was also the one who chose my name – Rosemary.

Relationnel is also a romantic. Before we lived in Paris, my ground-floor office, whose window looked out onto a little courtyard where I planted lots of flowering shrubs, was opposite a flower shop. Always when I was least expecting it, I’d see the florist coming towards me with a lovely bunch of fresh flowers courtesy of Relationnel who would phone her up from work. She always made sure they went in my special vase.

So, what are your favourite flowers?

Chateau de Chambord – Metro Maze in Paris – The Presidential Debate

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Already Wednesday again! All those public holidays in May make the time just disappear! This week, we have a description of Chambord castle (just next to me in Blois) by Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris, a great new phone App for the metro along with some lovely photos by Petite Paris of B&B fame and a very pertinent description of the French pre-election debate between the two final candidates, Nicolas Sarkozy and François Hollande by Finding Noon still worth reading even though we now know that François Hollande is the winner.

Château de Chambord – the largest castle in the Loire Valley

By Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris

While visiting the Loire Valley, I was reminded of how justifiably proud the French are of their rich cultural heritage and how this sentiment is passed down from one generation to the next. After overhearing some parents explain to their children that Francois I built Château de Chambord as a royal hunting lodge in which he only spent a mere 72 days during his 32 year reign, I teased Stéphane about his country’s lack of opulent castles. His immediate response was that while the Swiss may not have any extravagant châteaux, they also didn’t incur staggering debts. Sensible, but not quite so romantic… Read more

Metro Maze in Paris

by Petite Paris

Bonjour or bonsoir friends; depending on where you are in the world 🙂

We have just been sent a link to a new iphone app on the Metros in Paris and just wanted to share it with you as a bit of a helpful resource for your pending, upcoming, (one day soon hopefully) trip to Paris 😀

Its from Kemtro and its the only one that gives the exact location of all the entrances and exits of all the metro stations and it works offline – no roaming needed! (and we all know how expensive roaming can be). Read more

The Debate

by Finding Noon 

It is still the Presidential elections in France and last night was the great debate, which I didn’t find so great, but I did find rather fun to watch. French political debates are very different from my memories of US Presidential debates. Instead of standing officially at lecterns, each candidate is comfortably seated, with their notes. They face each other, not the voters, which helps tensions rise and makes for some great tv moments. As does the fact that the candidates do not have a set time limit for each answer. From an anglo-saxon perspective, this is not a debate, but a moderated argument, that turns into an intellectual free for all. Read more

Gardening Again!

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Yesterday, after I don’t know how long, the sun suddenly decided to come out, so we hit the garden. The trouble about grass is that it grows and if you don’t cut it often enough, it gets too long for the mower. It’s been so long since we’ve had a garden that we’d forgotten that little detail of course. The catcher was filling up so quickly that Relationnel eventually took it off altogether.

My job was therefore to rake up the piles of moist cut grass and put them into large rubbish bags as well as trim the edges of the garden beds. The ivy is doing its best to take over as many beds as it can as well as any spare walls (and we have a few of those!) so we had to attack that as well as I’d like to plant something more interesting, particularly in front of the house. Also, you can’t let the ivy get onto the roof tiles as it stops the rain from running into the gutters properly.

We now have a a garden bed ready for planting. I’d bought some gladioli bulbs one day at the supermarket but they all looked pretty mouldy yesterday so I don’t know how many will actually produce anything. When I first told Relationnel about them, he wasn’t very encouraging, telling me that people usually plant gladiolis next to corn stalks! I don’t have any corn stalks … We have a lot of hollyhocks though and they don’t seem to need corn stalks to keep them up, despite their height.

We did find a beautiful flower up on the sloping wood behind the house though. It’s an orchid it seems. Mr Previous Owner had told us about them, but this was the first one we’d seen. Unfortunately, my photo is a little blurry and when I went back this morning to take another one, it was already beginning to fade.

We’ve also moved the bird bath so that it’s near the tree with all the feeders in it. We have this incredibly cheeky little mésange (tit or chickadee) that taps insistently on the window with its beak if the feeder is empty or doesn’t contain its favourite bread crumbs (those from my home-made bread of course). You can hear lots of cuckoos in the grounds of our local Vicomté castle across the road as well.

This morning, I am sad to say, I can feel every muscle in my arms and legs. Falling UP the stairs in my haste to put my gardening clothes on didn’t help either. I can see I’ll have to garden more regularly!

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