Category Archives: Food

Chateauneuf, my secret hill village – La Charcuterie – Musée Nissim de Camodo, Paris

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Some more Australian connections for this Wednesday’s Bloggers’ Round-up, starting with Phoebe from Lou Messugo, who takes us on a visit to Châteauneuf in the south of France; Susan from Days on the Claise who describes her local charcuterie in Touraine and Carolyn from My Sydney Paris Life who gives us a very moving description of the beautiful Nissim de Camondo museum in Paris. Enjoy!

Châteauneuf, my secret hill village

by Phoebe from Lou Messugo, a traveller, francophile, expat, mum and foodie now living in Roquefort les Pins where she runs a gîte after many years of travelling and living in Asia, Eastern Europe and Australia.

chateauneufThe Alpes-Maritimes is bursting with a multitude of pretty hill villages, called “villages perchés” in French, built during the middle ages in strategic spots on mountain tops and hill sides. There are at least 15 within half an hour’s drive of Lou Messugo, all with their own charm and more or less renovated/developed for tourists or left in an authentic untouched state. But there is one so close and yet so hidden that many people visiting the area wouldn’t even realise it exists. (I’d be prepared to bet a significant amount of local residents don’t realise there’s a medieval “perched” bit either). I’m talking about the village of Châteauneuf de Grasse on the outskirts of its famous neighbour, Grasse. Read more

La Charcuterie

by Susan from Days on the Claise, an Australian living in the south of the Loire Valley, writing about restoring an old house and the area and its history, and running Loire Valley Time Travel.

charcuterie1The charcuterie in Preuilly is well patronised and they have a good range of products. Most are made in house, some brought in. French charcuteries focus mainly on value added pork products — often cured, but sometimes simply cooked and ready to eat. They also do salads and prepared dishes. This is because many of them, like the one in Preuilly, are also traiteurs (caterers). Read more

A Legacy of Beauty and Remembrance: Musée Nissim de Camondo, Paris

by Carolyn Barnabo from My Sydney Paris Life, writing about global families and change and life in special geographic places that have captured her heart

nissim_museumEarlier this week, Clive and I visited Paris’s Musée Nissim de Camondo. In the days since then, we’ve often found ourselves returning to the story of the family whose sad, horrific history shaped our experience of spending time in what was once their home.

The first time I read about Musée Nissim de Camondo was in Edmund White’s ‘The Flâneur’ (2001). I know little about ‘decorative arts’ and tire quickly of stately homes brimming with historic furniture and all manner of objects — I’d rather explore the gardens and grounds outside. But White’s recounting of the de Camondos’ personal story grabbed me and I’ve had this museum on my Paris to-do list ever since. Read more

 

Friday’s French – persillé

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A post by Susan from Days on the Claise in which she described the fare offered at her local charcuterie set me thinking about the word “persillé” which literally means “parsleyed”, used to describe pâté or brawn with parsley through it.

However, when applied to an entrecôté or côte de boeuf, it also means “marbled”, that is, with streaks of fat through it. I couldn’t quite understand how, etymologically, you could get from parsley in a pâté to streaks of fat in meat.

robert_etymologique

So I checked out my very favourite dictionary, the “Dictionnaire Historique de la Langue Française”, a beautiful two-volume affair that has that lovely thin bible paper. I happened upon it once at the Maison du Dictionnaire in Paris when I was looking for some technical dictionaries and, despite its exorbitant price, couldn’t resist buying it. But I’ve never regretted it.

Persillé” was first recorded in 1694 with its original meaning of blue or rather green-veined cheese, “not to be confused with persillé meaning a preparation with parsley as a condiment”, a rather strange thing to say as you would imagine that the resemblance to parsley would have come first.

By analogy with the green-veined cheese, it means anything “with green stains” (1864). There’s a cheese called “persillé de Savoie“. But it has another unexpected meaning. In Provençal, “persil” (parsley) is slang for “money”, along with “oseille” (sorrel) and “épinards” (spinach), and, by analogy (once again), for prostitution (1840). As a result, “persiller” also means “to sollicit clients” no less.

So now you can go off to the butcher’s and ask for an “entrecôte bien persillée” (unfortunately the way I prefer it) and to the cheesemongers and surprise them by ordering “fromage persillé“.

What a friend we have in cheeses – Salon Mer & Vigne et Gastronomie – How to Tip When Abroad

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This week’s bloggers’ round-up is dedicated to three bloggers whom I haven’t yet featured on Aussie in France: Lisa Rankin from Flavors of Paris recounts the first time she came across an open-air cheese stand; Donna Morris from Best Friend in Paris introduces us to the twice-yearly Salon Mer et Vigne wine and seafood fair; while Whitney Webster from Context gives us very useful tips on how to tip. Enjoy!

What a friend we have in cheeses

by Lisa Rankin in Paris and Michael Lutzmann in Ontario from Flavors of Paris, two Canadian foodies, madly in love with Paris, who give food-based guided tours that offer experience of local areas, ranging from exquisite cheeses and charcuterie to heavenly chocolate.

Man-Cheese“Each sort of cheese reveals a pasture of a different green, under a different sky.”

—Italo Calvino

The foggy Saturday morning rains had come in veils, like the northern lights, washing the cobbles. Fool: I’d left my umbrella at the tiny two-star hotel the airline had given me for mucking up my return flight to London. It was midsummer 1994; Paris was in the throes of World Cup fever. I’d made up my mind to wait out the rain in a café beneath a canopy when suddenly the clouds fissured and the rain stopped. Read more

Salon Mer & Vigne et Gastronomie

Donna Morris from Best Friend in Paris, a transplanted North Carolinian is a different sort of tour guide who shows visitors what she knows from living in Paris, both the major monuments and the tiny streets they wouldn’t find for themselves.

DSC03101If you’re lucky enough to be in Paris during the Fall and Winter months, there are often special event tradeshows that showcase food and wine, tourism, agriculture,chocolate – you name it.  The shows are meant to offer the producers a chance to meet their public and sell directly to them.  I buy all sorts of stuff and always end up with an overflowing (and heavy) caddy.

The Salon Mer & Vigne is held around the country and comes to Paris twice – in February and September.  It’s a great show for sampling products, buying for yourself or as gifts, having a meal (they serve oysters and other regional specialties) or just wandering up and down the aisles taking it all in.  I challenge anyone though, to go and not leave with something! Read more

How to Tip When Abroad

By Whitney Webster from Context, a network of scholars and specialists—in disciplines including archaeology, art history, cuisine, urban planning, history, environmental science, and classics—who, in addition to their normal work as professors and researchers, design and lead in-depth walking seminars for small groups of intellectually curious travelers.

tippingAnyone who has sat in the back of a taxi cab fumbling foreign currency while frantically trying to remember the right amount to tip (is it 5%? 10%? Just a few coins?) knows that it’s a good idea to research local customs around tipping before visiting a new city. It’s tempting to assume that, when in doubt, better to overtip than appear stingy, but it turns out that in some countries, this is a very bad idea. We chatted with our local experts in each of the non-North American cities where we operate to find out exactly how, and how much, it’s appropriate to tip. Read more

The hottest new pop-up bar in Paris with a stunning view of the Eiffel Tower – Top 12 Patisseries in Paris – Scallops & St Peter

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This week, in Wednesday’s blogger round-up, Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris takes us to a pop-up bar (a new concept for me) in Paris where she was tempted by the sin of gluttony. I can’t wait to try it out! Andrea from Rearview Mirror shares her top 12 patisseries in Paris from a host of wonderful neighbourhoods while Niall and Antoinette from Chez Charmizay explore an intriguing “monument historique” in the Loire Valley. Enjoy!

The hottest new pop-up bar in Paris with a stunning view of the Eiffel Tower: 180 Restaurant and Bar at the Pullman Hotel

by Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris, an American by birth, Swiss by marriage, resident of Paris with a Navigo Pass for the metro that she feels compelled to use

pop_up_barBetter hurry! The clock is ticking and there are only 126 days, 13 hours and 26 minutes left to enjoy one of the most spectacular views of city from the hottest new pop-up bar in Paris.

Situated on the 10th floor of the Pullman Hotel, the bar offers an intimate encounter with the Eiffel Tower in all its sparkling glory. Watching the day fade into night as we sipped glasses of Veuve Clicquot champagne with friends visiting from the States yesterday evening, Stephane and I regretted that we hadn’t reserved a table for dinner. In keeping with the theme, the pop-up bar has specially concocted drinks and menu items honoring the seven deadly sins. With offerings like le Charnel (the carnal), a savory cheesecake, and le Sensual (the sensual) a sweet cheesecake, I was sorely tempted by the sin of gluttony. Read more

Top 12 Patisseries in Paris

by Andrea from Rear View Mirror (formerly Destination Europe), a fellow Australian who, after 6 years of living in France, has given up herParis apartment to live a nomadic life slowing travelling around Europe, experiencing each destination like a local

lille-france-17I naively thought I could list my top 10 favourite patisseries in Paris but there are too many great places to choose from so I decided to share my top 12. All are located in fantastic neighbourhoods ideal for a city break in Paris. If you’re planning a visit to Paris and want to live like a local, Go with Oh have a number of apartments perfect for a short stay. Read more

Scallops & St Peter

by Niaill, a Scotsman, and Antoinette, a Dutch American, from Chez Charnizay, who live in the village of the same name in southern Touraine  and blog about their adventures in the Loire Valley.

scallops_saint_peter

The town of L’Île-Bouchard straddles the river Vienne and we’ve written about the capitals of the ruined Prieuré de Saint-Léonard there before. On the south side of the Vienne river, just before you reach it, is a small village called Parçay-sur-Vienne.

We decided to have a quick look to see if the village church was of interest before heading on towards L’Île-Bouchard and Chinon: it was a another case of one of those slightly battered and faded ‘monument historique’ signs which intrigued us. Read more

Jean Michel’s Thin-Crust Apple Tart

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I’m a great believer in having a couple of culinary specialities up your sleeve that you can make standing on your head and everyone oohs and ahs about. It doesn’t even matter if you always serve up the same thing to the same people because they usually look forward to it. Jean Michel’s great specialty is his thin-crust apple tart.

Jean Michel's apple tart
Jean Michel’s apple tart

The first time I ate it was when he invited me to dinner at his place for the first time. He’s convinced it’s low calorie. I’m not so sure about that, but it’s definitely delicious. I have never learnt to make it – I would hate to rob him of his fame (and it would also mean I’d find myself making it more often than him!). Also, I don’t think I have the patience to cut the apple thinly enough.

I once helped him in the early days of our acquaintance and I could see I was not doing it the right way. So I bowed out gracefully and left him to get on with it.

Here’s the recipe :

Ingredients:

250 g of plain flour (we only have unbleached)
1 to 2 g of ground Guérande sea salt (that is the only type he likes!)
30 g of fine brown sugar
100 to 150 g of butter
1 egg
3 to 4 large Golden Delicious apples (or any other non-floury apple)
 

1. Mix the dry ingredients in a large bowl

Putting curls of butter into the flour

Putting curls of butter into the flour

2. Scrape the butter into the bowl with a serrated edge knife

3. Incorporate with the finger tips

4. Create a well in the middle and break in the egg

5. Blend well with the fingertips

6. Add a little water depending on the moistness of the flour

7. Form a uniform ball and put in a cool place for at least 30 minutes but preferably several hours

Forming a circle from the ball of dough
Forming a circle from the ball of dough

8. Place the dough on a marble plaque and press it into a circle by working around it

Rolling dough towards the inside
Rolling dough towards the inside

9. Roll the dough out with a rolling pin first from the outside in, then from the inside out until it forms a circle with a diameter of 38 to 40 cm

Transferring the dough onto the rolling pin
Transferring the dough onto the rolling pin

10. Roll the dough around the rolling pin and place gently onto a 35 cm shallow anodised aluminium tart plate.

Placing the dough on the tart plate
Placing the dough on the tart plate

11. Prick the bottom with a fork

12. Turn the edge over

Forming a roll around the outside
Forming a roll around the outside

13. Create a decorative edge with a fork

Decorating the edge with a knife
Decorating the edge with a knife

14. Harden the tart shell in a 220°C oven for 2 minutes

The empty shell ready for the oven
The empty shell ready for the oven

15. Spread a thin layer of apple compote on the bottom of the shell

Spreading compote onto the base
Spreading compote onto the base

16. Carefully eel and slice the apple thinly and evenly

Cutting up apple into thin slices
Cutting up apple into thin slices

17. Overlap the apple slices to form a pattern

Overlapping the apple slices
Overlapping the apple slices

18. Make the rosette in the middle and sprinkle lightly with sugar

Just out the oven
Just out the oven

19. Cook in a 220°C oven for 20 to 30 minutes.

Enjoy!

Braving the Weather to go to the Market in Paris

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Every Sunday, when we are in Paris, we go to the local market at Sainte Eustache, regardless of the weather. We have an addiction to fresh fruit and vegetables, fresh fish and, of course, oysters on Sunday. When it snowed last week, we wondered how many vendors we would find. As we walked out the front door, I nearly slipped on the ice on the threshold despite my new shoes. After that, I was extra careful!

Motorcycles in the snow
Motorcycles in the snow

We walked past motorcycles, vélib’s and a Christmas tree covered in snow until we got to the ATM at the bank. I felt very sorry for the bag lady inside the makeshift tent even though it was positioned over a warm air vent. It’s very sad to see the number of homeless people constantly increasing in the streets of Paris and even more noticeable in winter.

Bag lady in her cold tent
Bag lady in her cold tent

When we got to the market, we discovered that most of our regulars stall, including the oyster vendor, were there. But hardly any customers! We buy our fruit & veggies from a serve-yourself stall so I made sure I took the produce that HADN’T been covered in snow and cooked the more perishable vegetables (zucchini, eggplant, capsicum) that evening.

Lonely market in the snow
Lonely market in the snow

The people I felt really sorry for were the fishmongers. They have to pick up the fish and weigh it, then clean it. Their hands must be completely numb. Mine were freezing and I was wearing my rabbit-fur-lined leather gloves from Italy. There wasn’t a lot of choice, but that was understandable. The fish monger thanked us for our “fidelity” when we left.

Oysters on Sunday in the rain
Oysters on Sunday in the rain

By the next Sunday, all the snow had disappeared, but it was very cold and rainy and windy so we took our big rainbrella as Leonardo used to call it. This time, the fruit and vegetables were soaking wet. My hands were completely frozen by the time I had stuffed a kilo of spinach leaves into a plastic bag. Next time, I might just take a pair of rubber gloves along!

Queuing for organic vegetables in front of Jet Lag
Queuing for organic vegetables in front of Jet Lag

What amazed me most was the long queue at the organically grown produce stall, right down as far as the Jet Lag café! The wind was whipping around us and there they all were, stoic as ever. It’s strange they preferred the rain and wind to the snow though.

Early (or late) after work at L'Imprimerie
Early (or late) after work at L’Imprimerie

We went past L’Imprimerie on the way home with its “After Work” sign in English. You wouldn’t really think it was the right time of the day or day of the week, would you?

You can see the gypsies, who have been accosting tourists, dispersing as the machine guns arrive ...
You can see the gypsies, who have been accosting tourists, dispersing as the machine guns arrive …

Now, the weather has got much warmer – 10°C today – so I was able to go powerwalking in the Tuileries Gardens. Reminder to self: you still need gloves at 10°C.

Celebrating Christmas in France – Great Resources To Help Plan Your Bike Trip to France – Wineries/les vignobles

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My Wednesday’s bloggers’ round-up this week starts with fellow Australian Kathy Stanford from Femmes Francophiles who’s been having a holiday from blogging but after a recent trip to France, she’s fortunately back on the job. So I’m starting with her authentic experience of Christmas in France with a French family. Next Maggie LaCoste from Experience France by Bike lists resources to plan a bike trip in France, including my beloved Loire Valley. Jill from Gigi’s French window, also Australian, compares cellar doors in France and Australia. Nothing could be more different! Enjoy!

Celebrating Christmas in France

by Kathy Stanford from Femmes Francophiles, an Australian who an ongoing passion for France and the French language just back in Australia from two months in France

christmas_femmes_francophilesMy love for La France is intrinsically linked with my passion for food. I have been extremely spoilt in staying with Valérie who is a generous and wonderful cook. In France the main meal at Christmas time is usually on Christmas Eve. Valérie’s son Grego offered to prepare this meal. Having lost weight for a film role he had been dreaming about an extra special Christmas Eve dinner. He devised the dishes, bought the ingredients and then he and Valérie worked as a team to create the dishes.

We started with champagne, foie gras on toast, radishes, carrot, foie gras and fig macarons from Pierre Hermé. I was rather sceptical about the foie gras and fig macarons as I have only ever known macarons as a sweet rather than something savoury. They however worked very well. I even bought some for New Year’s Eve. Read more

Great Resources To Help Plan Your Bike Trip to France

by Maggie LaCoste from Experience France by Bike, an American who loves biking anywhere in Europe, but especially France, which has the perfect combination of safe bike routes, great food, great weather and history

usseCyclotourism is getting to be big business in Europe, worth somewhere around 45+ billion Euros per year to the European economy.  This is great for you and me because countries like France, (and Germany, Austria and Switzerland) want our business.  Their improving their marketing efforts and they are rapidly stepping up efforts to provide better information on major routes.  Don’t get too excited, this doesn’t mean that you will have an easy time finding information on all major itineraries.  But it does mean that access to better information is improving, more of it’s offered in English, and the result is easier trip planning. To kick off the new year and bike trip planning season, let’s take a look at several major websites to see how they can help you decide where to go and where to bike. Read more

Wineries/les vignobles

by Jill from Gigi’s French Window, French ponderings from an Australian who must have been French in another life

lulu coco gigi 165This year I have decided to search out and enjoy all sorts of ‘french experiences’ right here in the land down under…

I made a start last weekend by  visiting a local winery…well it was an hours’ drive away, but I didn’t have to take a 2 day trip across the world!

But first some ‘pics’ to compare….

Last May, the ‘travelling bridesmaids’ and I went for a beautiful Sunday stroll along the tiny winding roads of Cassis,  southern  France.  We thought we would try a wine tasting, have lunch..you know  how it goes….well the walk was fabulous, the scenery amazing…but none were open to the public!  It seems that tourism doesn’t come into play with french vineyards..(these ones anyway) .I think it must be all too serious a business for  that! Read more (and don’t forget to read the comments as well)

Christmas is Over Already

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Black Cat left for New York today with the Flying Dutchman for Christmas and New Year, so we celebrated Christmas early his year, on Saturday evening, as both Relationnel’s sons were free as well. Leonardo, of course, was asleep in Sydney. I got back from Blois on Friday night so Relationnel and I spent Saturday rushing around buying the rest of the presents and ingredients for our Christmas feast. All very exhausting!

verrines

We started with 3 verrines (avocado, pink grapefruit & prawns;  eggplant purée, ricotta & cherry tomatoes; zucchini, basil & fromage blanc purée with parmesan chips & walnuts) and a spoon (pumpkin & spice purée) with a glass of champagne.

After that, we pulled the Christmas crackers and laughed at the silly jokes, followed by the present opening. We dispensed with the traditional shoes under the Christmas tree, which Black Cat had decorated earlier in the evening and Relationnel played Santa instead.

relationnel_champagne

This was followed by (small portions of) spéciale oysters, smoked salmon and foie gras with quincy bought at the wine fair recently (a Loire Valley sauvignon not unlike sancerre) by which time I totally forgot to take any photos, which is a pity because the foie gras was decorated with mini muffins of my making, a few leaves of leafy greens and 15 year old balsamic vinegar. Three of the plates looked very professional.

The main course was côte de bœuf with Darphin potatoes (Black Cat’s choice) and oven-baked eggplant, zucchini and bell peppers, this time accompanied by a 1979 Saint Emilion.

table

Dessert consisted of two verrines – Columbian coffee panna cotta with Speculoos (Belgian brown sugar & ginger biscuits) and apple crumble & French custard – and the rest of the mini muffins, with another glass of champagne of course! No cake, of course, because I made it too late …

May I wish you all a very happy and joyous Christmas with a special thought for those who have suffered recent losses.

The Kitchen Sink

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Relationnel is arriving this afternoon with the kitchen sink. Well, almost. I wish he was. I am taller than the average Mrs Frog, unfortunately, which means that most sinks are way too low for me. It wouldn’t matter if I had a dish washer, but that is the one major item missing from Closerie Falaiseau and short of putting it in the bathroom (and that would not pass muster with my gîte guests now, would it?), it will continue to be missing until the kitchen is renovated in a couple of years time, at the same time as the addition of a very large bay window, complicated by the fact that the walls, you will remember, are about 70 cm thick. But I want light and a view of our wood.

The kitchen sink in Blois – I would like the bay window on the right of the small window

What Relationnel is bringing, though, is the electric knife sharpener (why do knives become blunt so quickly?), my sewing box (someone’s going to notice that coming-down hem soon), a couple of warm pullovers (so I can wash my only woollen cardigan) and the second cheap-O espresso maker (because pieces keep coming off the one here and my extragently expensive one now lives in Paris without me).

He’s also bringing the fireback for the renovated fireplace which he bought in Baie de Somme through leboncoin.com on Monday. I was so sad not to go with him but it seemed a little silly to take the train to Paris (1 ½ hours) then go another 2 ½ hours by car and back again. So I’m waiting eagerly to see the monster  which is a metre wide and weighs over a hundred and fifty kilos.

Leonardo’s company closing file is also coming down, sadly. I can’t believe it’s not finished yet but the Court wrote to say there were some things missing and a couple of errors. But Relationnel is also bringing the flowers Leonardo sent to me just as I was leaving Paris last time – the florist suggested delaying delivery until Relationnel could bring them down to Blois as it seemed a bit dicey to take them on the train with me.

Last year’s Christmas cake fresh out of the oven

More importantly, the Christmas cake tin and ingredients will arrive tonight as well, though only Relationnel and I will be around to stir and make a wish, an unavoidable break in tradition this year as the cake is already late. I should have made it last time I went back to Paris. Of course. But I was too busy trying to close Leonardo’s company.

Taking the temperature of our home made foie gras

Apart from that, Relationnel is bringing all the materials needed to finish the BIG FIREPLACE OPERATION so we can wish in the New Year in front of a blazing fire, sipping vintage champagne and eating homemade fois gras (if we ever find the time to make it!). It could take a while to unpack from the trailer when he arrives. Then we’ll go out and celebrate our anniversary!

If you would like to be notified of subsequent posts by email, just sign up under “Subscribe” in the column on the right. And please feel free to comment!

Nougat? Did You Say Nougat?

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I’ve at last decided to leave Paris again because of the balcony renovation and go back to Blois. It’s not that I want to. This living in two places is starting to wear me down. I’m also exhausted by the company-closing business. And I won’t see Relationnel for another 9 days. However, Françoise, my friend and neighbour in Blois, has very kindly said she’ll pick me up at the train station, which makes me feel better.

Memebers of the Confrerie Gourmande du Nougat de Tours at Blois train station

When I arrive, I see several people wearing mortar boards. A graduation ceremony in a train station? That can’t be right. It turns out to be a Brotherhood, with a few sisters thrown in. They are dressed in blue silk coats, white gloves and mortar boards with white, red and yellow trimming and are called the Confrérie Gourmande du Nougat de Tours! You may remember the word “gourmand” from my post on café gourmand.

They are busy setting out cake boxes, plastic cups, apple juice, quizzes and pens. They’re also handing out small slices of cake to taste. Françoise gives me a quiz to do. We have to read the information panels to find the answers, then ask one of the brothers or sisters to answer the last question – who are the Brotherhood’s patron saints? They turn out to be Saint Michel (pastrycooks) and Saint Martin (Tours and sharing!). We complete the quiz and get all the answers right so are each presented with a box of nougat cake!

Me in my Australian Akubra hat tasting the nougat cake

The cake consists of a shortbread crust filled with apricot marmelade (they used to use alberge, a sort of early peach), interspersed with candied fruit and covered with a moist almond topping sprinkled with icing sugar. Very tasty, I must say!

Apparently, the little round cake was forgotten for many years but one of the first recipes, dating back to 1865, was found in the library of a famous restaurant owner in Tours, Charles Barrier, in the cook book of Charles III of Monaco’s chef. A little bit complicated I agree. It was resurrected in the 1970s and “nougat de Tours” has been selling like hotcakes ever since.

Nougat cakes from Dominique Grias’ bakery in Tours

Of course, Leonardo Vinci, an iconic figure in Touraine, is supposed to have been a fan as well, because he loved almonds and candied fruit which were known as “chamber spices” back in Renaissance times. The Brotherhood was set up in 1998 and holds a “Best Nougat” competition every year open to professionals. The cake I tasted comes from the ovens of Dominique Grias, 91, avenue de la République, Tours-Nord.

A complete list of places to buy the cakes is to be found on the Brotherhood’s website – along with the recipe. Enjoy !

http://www.nougat-tours.confreries.org

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