Category Archives: Cycling

Accommodation, Architecture, Cycling, Serbia, Sightseeing, Travelling

Cycling around Belgrade

September 26, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 6 Comments

We leave Zagreb with overcast skies and slight rain. We have lunch in a rest stop on the motorway in the car because it’s not warm enough to sit outside – not to mention there are no picnic tables.

Trucks on the Croatian side of the border

We’re a bit worried about the border between Croatia and Serbia because Croatia is stopping lorries from entering the country in order to put pressure on the Serbian government to take more migrants (mostly from Syria). Apart from an accident between a car and a lorry in the queue, there is no problem about cars entering Serbia. However, at border control, three cars enter Serbia for every car that enters Croatia.

Trucks on the Serbian side of the border, banked up for 11 kilometers

After we leave the border, we see lorries waiting in line for 11 kilometers on the Serbian side. The rest of the journey to Belgrade is uneventful.

We’ve reserved a hotel just outside the centre of Belgrade along the Danube in Zemun. We are able to park just in front (the hotel looks after the parking). It’s a bit spartan and the room is minute, but what can you expect for 33 euros a night including breakfast?

View of the Danube in front of the hotel

We drop our things and take off on our bikes to explore Belgrade. However, it’s already nearly 4 pm and we know it will be dark by 6.30 pm. We don’t have a lot of time. The centre is 7 k away.

Belgrade from the bike path along the Danube with its many restaurant boats

The ride along the Danube is pleasant. As usual in the former Eastern block countries, there is a constant contrast between old and new which a lot of very dilapidated buildings.

We go past numerous house boats, many of which are restaurants or cafés. There are very few cyclists on the Eurovelo 6 route which then takes us through a park along the river.

Belgrade is built on a hill overlooking the Danube on the other side so we have to cross a busy bridge.

Three-quarters of the way across the bridge, we see there is a special bike lift to take us down to the bank below. Pedestrians are not allowed to use the lift and there is a lift man at the bottom keeping an eye on things.

The Danube from the bike path on the Belgrade centre side

The Eurovelo 6 route continues along the edge of the Danube. After a couple of kilometers, we see an arrow pointing right to Belgrade centrar. And that is the end of any concession whatsoever to bikes. In fact we only ever see one other bike …

We go through an underpass then have to go up a hill on a road iwith trams. The pavement is very narrow and Jean Michel has already warned me about the danger of getting my wheel stuck in a tram line. We decide to wheel our bikes up the hill.

The first impression when we reach the centre of Belgrade is the number of people and general animation. There are people and cafés everywhere but very few buildings of any architectural interest except a few throwbacks to the Austro-Hungarian era.

One of the buildings of Austro-Hungarian influence

We realise we’ve forgotten our Petit Futé guide book to Serbia so we look for the tourist office. Jean Michel minds the bikes while I go in. I ask for a brochure in French, but they only have one in English. I then ask if there is a cycling itinerary but my request is not understood. I am given a brochure on guided tours to Belgrade instead.

We check out the main attractions but there are very few except for museums and we don’t have either the time or inclination. There are a lot of buskers around and a large group of people in front of the national museum n Republic Square. A woman is speaking. I go closer and it seems that she is interpreting a man using sign language. I wish I could understand more.

The museum in the fortress park — The Cvijeta Zuzoric Art Pavilion in the fortress park

It’s getting late and I don’t want to ride home along the Danube in the dark so we decide to go and quickly visit the 14th century fortress reconstructed in the 18th century on the way back. We meet a lot of other visitors all going to the Torture Museum and to see the old army tanks, it seems.

Belgrade Fortress, built in the14th century and reconstructed in the 18th century

We get back to the hotel just as night is falling to Jean Michel’s surprise by which time we are also a little cold. The temperature is about 14 or 15°C and we’re in three-quarter pants and sandals.

A thatched roof house boat on the Danube

It’s an intermittent fast day so we have dinner in our little room. I manage to stub my toe very badly on the leg of the bed but at least it isn’t broken. We spend over two hours trying to find a place to stay next day so that we can cycle along the Danube in the area called the Iron Gates. We would like an apartment for 3 nights but I can’t find anything that looks even halfway decent. There seem to be few hotels either. In the end, we go to bed. Whenever I wake up, my toe hurts which is very worrying if we are going to cycle tomorrow.

However, next morning, I am able to walk in my sandals without pain. Breakfast is surprising. Everything is cold – the sausages, fried eggs, boiled eggs, scrambled eggs, French toast. They have some tasty brioche though.

After checking out from the hotel, we go looking for a bancomat and see a local market which is great fun. We buy tomatoes for less than 50 euro cents a kilo, cucumbers and purple grapes called Hamburg which is a relief because we’ve been eating the strangest grapes since Lake Garda. Everyone is very friendly and helpful despite our lack of Serbian. The only things I know how to say is Hvala (thank you) and zdravo (hello). I forgot to mention that they use the Cyrillic alphabet here which is highly confusing.

We leave Belgrade without regret. We both find it quite depressing. The people are friendly, but nothing really works properly and there is a lot of poverty. Next stop, the Iron Gates which are the narrowest and deepest gorges in Europe.

Accommodation, Architecture, Croatia, Cycling, Sightseeing, Travelling

Zagreb – a City of Contrasts

September 24, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 9 Comments

We’ve been to Croatia before – in 2011 – but didn’t get as far as Zagreb so it’s been on my list for a while. We mainly visited the coast: Split, Dubrovnik (with an excursion into Mostar in Bosnia Herzegovina), Zadar, Sibenik and Plitvice Lakes (which is one of my top sites in the world) and Pula and Porec in Istria. We then went to Ljubljana, which I loved so it’s a bit frustrating to be whizzing through Slovenia on the motorway without stopping especially as the sun’s come out.

Whizzing past typical Slovenian countryside on the motorway

We’re staying two nights in an apartment in Zagreb because there are practically no hotels in the centre. Parking also seems to be a problem but there is a cheap covered parking lot less than 10 minutes walk from the apartment which is another 10 minute walk in the other direction from the historical centre.

Our view from the little balcony of our apartment

This is not Italy as far as apartments go, but it’s not the same price either. In Arqua Petrarca, we paid 100 euro a night against 66 euro here. Our Aba Zagreb apartment is spacious and clean (except for the windows), the bed is comfortable, the shower head needs soaking in vinegar to unplug the clogged holes, the floor between the bedroom and bathroom is warped and cracks at night when you walk on it and there is only two or three of everything (cups, plates, etc.) but otherwise it’s fine because we have our own vegetable peeler, kitchen knives and bread knife. I’m not quite sure how the apartment got it’s 9+ rating on booking.com!

By the time we get settled, it’s dusk so we make for the old town. I always find that a bit of an adjustment is needed when we enter a former eastern block country because of the many contrasts between old and new, delapidated and renovated. Zagreb is no exception The historical centre is appealing though and we have a glass of wine near the market. – the glasses are 0.10 l and there are no nibbles to go with them. Next to us, a dozen or so young women are obviously celebrating something and have a photographer with them.

Maybe a hens' party? — Maybe a hens’ party?

We make a mistake about dinner and end up paying 60 euro in a restaurant recommended by Le Routard (Balthazar) as being “medium priced” and serving local dishes. My entrée is frankly awful but Jean Michel has delicious pasta and freshly picked boletus mushrooms. We then have a small entrecôte with grilled vegetables accompanied by a house wine.

It’s next morning and we start with a cappuccino in the “café” street , Tklaciceva, which was once a river separating the Kaptol and Gradec quarters.

The first female journalist in Croatia, Marija Juric Zagorka, 1887-1957

I love this little café which seems to have grown out of the wall

A house and chapel just next to the cathedral hidden behind an iron fence

We go back to Zagreb Cathedral to visit the inside. It has led a chequered existence and was once at the mercy of the Ottaman invaders, which explains the towers on each side which are part of a fortified wall , the front part of which has been demolished.

The buildings on the other side of the cathedral square

Comparison of renovation and non-renovation

We return to Dolac market and are surprised to see so many local producers selling their own fruit and vegetables, We buy some figs, grapes and green beans from three different vendors.

We find a place for lunch called Nokturno that costs a quarter of last night’s meal and is just as satisfactory. It’s certainly “local” in any case.

We walk up the hill to Saint Mark’s with Parliament House on one side and Ban Palace on the other. Something is going on. There is a TV reporter and a small group of demonstrators. I hear the word “discrimination”. We go in search of a wrought-iron gate mentioned in our guide book and designed by Herman Bollé. Just then a downpour begins and we duck under a porch. The weather forecast said overcast but no rain so we don’t have an umbrella. Sigh.

The wrought iron gate designed by Herman Bollé

Sweet corn sellers at the end of Tkalciceva street

We make a dash for a café and have an espresso while waiting for the rain to stop. We talk about our next destination. This morning we had decided to drive to Split on the Adriatic and take the ferry across to Ancona in Italy, because of the current immigrant problems and the large number of border controls being restored in this part of the world but we now think we should go to Serbia anyway and resume our cycling itinerary along the Danube.

We go home and check the weather forecast. We learn that the temperatures are going down in most places along the Danube in this area over the next few days, then going up again next week. So we book a hotel for a night on the Danube in Belgrade for an astonishing 31.50 euro. The Serbian capital is only about 3 hours away so we’ll be able to cycle along the river and visit Belgrade by bike in the afternoon then move on further the next day, perhaps to Vidin where it’s supposed to be warm and sunny. Keep tuned!

Accommodation, Architecture, Art, Cycling, Italy, Sightseeing

Cycling in the Veneto – Walled Cities and the Euganei Hills

September 23, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 3 Comments

After a rest day at our flat in Arqua Petrarca, the town where the famous Italian poet, Petrach, chose to spend his last five years (he died in 1374), we are back on our bikes.

The view of hte Euganei Hills from the bike path leaving Monselice

We’ve driven the 6 or 7 kilometers to Monselice and are following the official cycling itinerary that links up the walled cities of Monselice, Este and Montagnana and should total about 30 k. We set off on a sealed road along the Bisatto Canal which looks promising.

The easy gravel path along the Bisatto Canal

It lasts for 3 kilometers and then we are on a gravel road which soon becomes somewhat worse for wear. We come to a fork and see a big sign announcing the Colli Euganei route but nothing to indicate our road. We eventually find it after crossing a bridge over the Frassine river.

The narrow bike path with the Euganei Hills in the background

The bike road gets worse and it’s slow going but we have the Colli Euganei in the background to inspire us.

As we approach the mediaeval town of Este, about 10 K from Monselice, the road improves and despite the lack of sun, we appreciate the little town with its castle on one side and vast Piazza Maggiore with its municipal clock tower on the other.

We buy some food for lunch (it’s an intermittent fast day) and set off again.

After a couple of kilometers of sealed road, we find ourselves on another gravel road along the river which slows us down again. We come across two churches side by side, one little and old and the other big and new. We have our picnic on a low wall. There is not a soul in sight.

We continue the path along the river and it gets so bad that even Jean Michel, a truly seasoned cyclist, has to get off and walk part of the way because the stones are so big. We see a wild rabbit on the track that doesn’t run away until we’re practically on top of it. We eventually find a very steep stony road leading down to a sealed road and head for what we think is Montagnana.

On the way, we stop and ask a farmer what his crop is. Jean Michel, a true country boy, has been intrigued for some time about the local crops. Soy, we are told. Ah, that’s it. However, we later realise that the crop Jean Michel actually meant is tobacco. We keep going until we finally come to a town called Saletto that is not on our map. Hmm.

We ride around the town until we see a sign saying 6 k to Montagnana. We ride along a busy road with large trucks whizzing past us at 90 kph, cursing the people who dreamt up the itinerary. They were obviously not cyclists !

The cathedral in the main piazza in Montagnana

Montagnana turns out to be a 14th century walled city whose 24 x 17 metres high towers are still in perfect condition. We ride through one of the four gates and into the main square with its impressive cathedral and historical houses. There is obviously an important funeral going on so we don’t visit.

We then ride halfway around the walls to have a more complete view of the town. By now, we have clocked up 39 k which is our usualy daily average. We still have to ride back again and it’s already 4 pm. We’ve identified an alternative route and are hoping it will be better than the official itinerary we have just taken.

Our alternative route home with sealed roads and no gravel

As we ride past farms and tobacco fields on a quiet sealed road running roughly parallel to the gravelly river path, we wonder why on earth anyone would even suggest using the other one. Our road starts getting busier as it approaches the motorway and we debate whether or not to rejoin the gravel road (we’re about level with our picnic spot) or cross the bridge over the river and try the road on the other side.

The hill on which Monselice castle is built

We vote for the alternative route and congratulate ourselves on our choice. We eventually have to leave the sealed road when it veers off to the left. We take another gravel road but this time it’s acceptable. When we reach the Bisatto Canal again, we have a sealed road once more. It’s then plain sailing until we reach the car.

The Euganei Hills just before Monselic on the way home at dusk

All in all, it took us 3 hours to cover the 39 kilometers to Montagnana and 2 hours to cover the 31 kilometers back – a total of 5 hours’ cycling and 70 k, the most I’ve ever ridden in one day! I can’t wait to get back to our flat but we have food shopping to do first.

It’s next day and we’re feeling a little sluggish after our long ride yesterday so decide to drive down to Monselice which we didn’t have time to visit yesterday.

After a cappuccino and a pastry in what looks to be a favourite caffè with the local ladies, we explore the town. We walk up a side street to the Castello, a fortress dating from the Middle Ages and rebuilt in the 13th century.

The dwarfs on Villa Nani-Mocengo — The dwarfs on Villa Nani-Mocengio

A little further up the hill is the Villa Nani-Mocengio, whose statues of dwarfs on the outer wall are most intriguing. They are an illusion to the noble family that commissioned its construction (nani means dwarfs).

We have studied the bike route carefully this time and are avoiding any paths that are not sealed so we drive to Battaglia Terme 6 k away to leave the car. We take the incredibly comfortable sealed road along the canal to Montegrotto Terme past numerous vineyards and soy and tobacco fields not to mention to occasional castello.

Jean Michel and the bootmaker discussing Vespas

At the entrance to the town I spy a shoe repair shop and we stop to have the leather covering on my orthopaedic soles restuck – all in Italian, including a discussion about Vespa scooters between Jean Michel who speaks about 10 words of Italian and the shoemaker who is a self-proclaimed Vespa passionato.

Lunch at Osteria dei Fradei in Montegrosso Terme

We continue into the town which is of absolutely no interest but we find a small osteria for lunch. The prices are the lowest we’ve seen yet – 6 euro for primi piatti and 8 to 12 euro for secondi. I ask what braciole is and am told it comes from the animal’s rib. Jean Michel immediately swaps from his mixed fish grill, thinking it’s rib steak. It turns out to be a small pork chop served with excellent chip potatoes.

After also eating a side salad, we’re still hungry so order fusilli with basil and datterini, another new word for me. It means cherry tomatoes. Very tasty.

Building of Austrian influence in Abano Terme — Building of Austrian influence at Piazza del Sole e Pace in Abano Terme

We then continue on to Abano Terme which I thought was just down the road. By the time we get there, once again on an easy sealed road, we’ve clocked up 20 kilometers. So much for an easy day! It turns out to be a spa resort with absolutely nothing to redeem it. I ask a policeman to direct us to the Piazza del Sole et Pace which the tourist office brochure indicates is of interest. He gives us directions and tells us we shouldn’t be riding our bikes in the centre. Hmm.

We decide to take the quickest route back to Battaglia for an ice-cream, then home. The ride along the canal is fast so we only take 2 ½ hours to cover a total of 49 kilometers, much better than yesterday’s slow going.

The ice-cream is delicious (chocolate, fiori di latte and fig in a very good cone) and according to the newspaper clippings in the window, has won many prizes. What a lucky find!

Ice-cream at the prize-wining ice-cream parlour in Battaglia Terme

Meanwhile, my bike speedometer is no longer working because the sensor has fallen off. I think I know when it happened yesterday, just as we arrived back in Monselice, but there is little chance of finding it so I ask in the ice-cream shop for a bike shop. The lady looks at me with astonishment. In Battaglia, she says, I don’t think so, then asks her husband who’s chatting with a customer. Of course, he says, and the customer starts explaining how to get there.

I ask him to come outside an point the way, lentamente per piacere I understand it’s on the other side of the canal. Bingo! We are able to buy a new speedometer and a second tyre because Jean Michel says the other one on my bike is pretty worn as well and we need to be prepared for another puncture.

The 51-bike shop on the main road in Battaglia Terme

We arrive back at Zorzi apartments in Arqua Petrarca at 6 pm, practically a record these days and are able to spend some time in our little garden. We’ve decided on the next stage of our trip – two nights in Zagreb, which is 5 hours away, then onto to the Danube, starting at Nova Sad if the weather is fine, or further along if it’s not! The current immigrant events may also force us to take another route.

Accommodation, Architecture, Art, Cycling, Italy, Sightseeing

Cycling along the Brenta Riviera from Stra to Fusina with a visit to Villa Pisani

September 20, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 7 Comments

As promised, Paola, our lovely hostess at La Casa di Paola e Marco, the B&B where we are staying in Noventa Padovana near Padua, gives us scrambled eggs, ham and cheese for breakfast so we are ready to start a hard day’s cycling. We are off to the Brenta Riviera, with its Palladian villas between Padua and Venise. We park the car at Stra in front of the first Palladian villa on our list, Villa Pisani, which looks more like a palace than a villa.

Built in the first half of the 18th century, it has 114 rooms. We begin the visit at 11.15 and considering the size of the second villa that I can see at the bottom of the grounds, I make my way through the rooms quite quickly.

The second villa at Villa Pisani which turns out to be the stables

Some are richly furnished but the frescoes on the walls and ceilings are what really take the eye. They are quite sumptuous.

It’s not until we get to the end of the visit that I discover that the second villa is not a villa at all but the stables, and designed soley to provide a harmonious view from the first building. It’s actually only one room deep! I think that is amazing.

One of the more delicate ceilngs at Villa Pisani

Time for cappuccino so we walk down to the bottom of the gardens to the Museum Café which is in the old donkey stables.

The Coffee House (ice-house) at Villa Pisani, an early version of refrigerator

On the way, we pass the Ice House, built at the same time as the villa and which served as a refrigerator in the summer back. During the winter, snow and ice were stored in the area under the man-made hill and used to keep food and drink cold throughout the hot summer. Holes in the ceiling provided air-conditioning in the room above where the inhabitants of the villa came to keep cool. It reminds me of the Tivoli Gardens near Rome.

The museum café, in the donkey's stables — The museum café, in the donkey’s stables

We’re now back in the parking area which seems a good place to leave the car for the day. There is a group called Travel & Bike next to us so I ask the man running the show where the bike route starts because our map isn’t detailed enough. He starts directing me, then says, “Here take this map”. I show it to Jean Michel who suggests I ask for a second one.

I wait until the T&B organiser has looked after all his cyclists , making sure they have what they need and that their bikes are properly adjusted, and ask him for another one. He’s still in a bit of a hurry so asks his mate to give me one. By now it’s nearly 1 pm.

We lock the car and set off, as instructed, passing in front of the villa and down to the bridge 300 metres away. When we arrive at the end of the path, the Travel & Bike van is there. The organiser comes over and apologises for not taking more time with us earlier. He has a few suggestions to make : we should stop in Dolo where there is a 16th century watermill and old dockyard, leave the path at Malcontenta to see Villa Foscari, another Palladian villa, and then go the extra 5 k to see Venice from the boat terminal at Fusina.

On the Brenta just before taking the main road to Fusina

His bike tour seems extremely well-organised. He’ll be picking up the bikes at Fusina so the cyclists can take the vaporetto to Venice. He already has their luggage as they’ll be staying overnight.

Villa Badoer Fattoretto closed after a tornado in July 2015

Meanwhile we are limited, once again, by the fast diminishing number of daylight hours. It’s already 1.30 pm. Our bike route takes us along the south side of the Naviglio di Brenta along a tranquil road, past many villas owned by rich Venetians, which explains why the area is called the Brenta Riviera. Some of the villas are in better shape than others, Villa Badoer Fattoretto, built in the 17th century being one of the better ones.

We stop at Dolo as suggested and have lunch at the Mulino di Dolo restaurant on the little esplanade which has a view of the dockyard (squero) and church.

After Dolo, the bike route runs along the river and we see more villas. The route takes us through Oriago until we come out on a main road. Fortunately the T&B organiser has explained where to go or we would have been lost! The group turns out to be just in front of us and we follow them to Villa Forcari a few hundred kilometers off the main path.

Unfortunately, it’s closed on Sunday afternoons but we are able to see it from the outside. Not that we would have had time to visit.

The remaining 5 kilometers to Fusina mainly run along the Brenta except for the last couple which take us on the main road leading to Fusina terminal. We arrive at the esplanade and can pick out some of our favourite places in Venice with our binoculars. We’re glad we made the extra effort. However, the 30 kilometers have taken us 2 hours and it’s 5 pm. Nightfall is at 7.15 pm at the moment …

Some of the dilapidated villas along the Brenta

We start the return journey, intending to eat a gelato in Malcontenta where I spied a gelateria on the way. When we arrive, there is only one table left (out of two!) and it’s in the sun. The owner immediately sees the problem and moves the table. We go in to choose our gelati. “No”, she says, “we don’t have any ice-cream, only cakes”. Well, I am not a great fan of Italian cakes. so it’s a bit of a disappointment, especially after cycling for 25 K without a break Jean Michel chooses one but I prefer to eat the biscuits we always carry with us.

There is an alternative bike route that skirts around Oriago and will save a couple of kilometers so we decide to take it. We’re cycling along the canal again when we hear a horn blowing behind us. We stop and who do we see – Paola and Marco from the B&B in Noventa Padovana! They’re on their motorbike bound for Venice for the evening. When they went past several minutes earlier, they thought it was us so doubled back. What a coincidence!

At kilometer 43 out of 58, we come to a fork near Mira and I choose the right hand path. Jean Michel, who’s just behind, calls out “no, to the left.” I brake, without realising I’m on gravel and over I go. I try to save myself by getting free of the bike and only have a few grazes on my hands and knees. No holes in my pants, thank goodness.

We get back to the car at 7 pm, just before nightfall. We arrive at our next location, Arqua Petraca, an hour later, just in time for an excellent – and well-deserved – dinner at the Osteria al Guerriero, run by the owners of the appartment we are renting for the next four nights. – Casa

In front of our rental appartment in Arqua Petrarca

We are delighted with our accommodation – a 2-bedroom flat on the ground floor with our own table and chairs in the garden just in front. Tomorrow is a rest day and we’re pleased to at last have more space than just a bedroom.

Architecture, Art, Cycling, Italy, Sightseeing, Travelling

Visiting Padua by Bike #2 – Cappella degli Scrovegni and Sant’Antonio – and a puncture!

September 19, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 5 Comments

We set out on our bikes at 10.30 am after having a typical Italian breakfast at our B&B. A bit too high carb for cyclists. Our hostess spontaneously suggests eggs and cheese for tomorrow.

It’s a little muggy to start with but not at all cold. This time, when we get to the canal, we don’t cross the bridge as we did yesterday and discover a very different path – either gravel or asphalt the entire way.

We go past the Villa Giovanelli again but the view is better from the other side of the canal. It affords a close-up view of the statues though.

The bike path just before the second bridge

We also avoid the narrow passageway across the second bridge because we come out on the other side. Just before the bridge, we turn left until the zebra crossing then join the path on the other side.

We decide to keep going along the canal and enter the city of Padua from the entrance closest to Cappella degli Scrovegni so we can pick up our tickets. We go past Porta Ogni Santi also known as Portello, which is a meeting place for the students who frequent the nearby university.

The chapel is just next door to Arena park where we had our lunch yesterday. I get our tickets without even having to stand in line (we reserved yesterday for 2.30 pm today) and we head for Porta Specola. En route we stop for a cappuccino near Piazza della Fruta.

First cappuccino since our arrival in Italy

As we’re cycling along one of the little paved streets off the Piazza, I realise I must have a puncture. Jean Michel pumps it up (we always carry a puncture kit) and we go to a little square nearby so he can repair the puncture.

It turns out one of my tyres has a big tear in it. While Jean Michel’s repairing the inner tube a lady comes by walking her dog. I ask her if she knows where there is a bike shop to buy a new tyre. She phones her son and directs us to the Duomo – all in Italian! A young girl and her mother come by and ask if they can help. The other lady relays the message about the bike shop to the young girl who explains it to me in English adding that the shop will be closed during lunch time.

That’s OK. We’ll have lunch first, visit the chapel, then find the shop. So we set off for the old Observatory tower built in the 18th century to experiment with astronomic theories.

We then keep our eye open for somewhere to have lunch and I spy a little Trattoria under the arches of a gallery called Savonarola that looks just right. We order the pasta of the day – maccheroni al torchio alla norma which I later discover is a dish of Sicilian origin with a tomato sauce to which fried eggplant, ricotta and basil have been added.

The starry sky of the Cappella degli Scrovegni

At the chapel, we arrive with 10 minutes to spare. Only 25 people can enter at a time and prior reservation is compulsory. We watch a 20-minute video in Italian first, with subtitles in English and German. It explains the origin of the chapel and some of the frescoes. I’m a little disappointed in some of the paintings. Giotto finished only took 2 years to paint the entire chapel and I guess he rushed through some of the scenes …

Palazzo del Bo university founded in 1222.

Next stop is the duomo but no one has heard of a bike shop there so we go back to the tourist office where we are directed to another shop not far from our next stop, Saint Anthony’s basilica. L’Angolo del ciclo is on via Facciolatti, 22. We stop by the Palazzo del Bo on the way, but don’t have time to visit.

L'angolo ciclo bike shop — L’angolo del Ciclo bike shop

We soon have a new tyre and two bike locks because the one that Jean Michel uses to protect our bikes when they’re on the bike trailer takes quite a long time to attach. It’s better to have a faster system when you’re visiting a town centre by bike. He manages to put the tyre in one of the paniers and we start look for a gelateria.

The Byzantine cupolas at Saint Anthony's basilica — The Byzantine cupolas at Saint Anthony’s basilica

After our ice-creams, we visit the Basilica, which I consider is the most interesting monument in Padua. It is quite sumptuous. It has a Roman façade, Byzantine cupolas, a Gothic central tower and bell-towers and a late Renaissance chapel containing the tomb of Saint Anthony. Photos are not allowed inside.

Second set of cloisters at the Basilica di Sant'Antonio — Second set of cloisters at the Basilica di Sant’Antonio

We continue the visit with two cloisters offering wonderful views of the outside of the basilica.

By the time we get back to our bikes, it’s 5.40 pm. We debate about when Jean Michel will change the tire since it’s a bit cumbersome. However, the decision is out of our hands. My tyre is completely flat again. I am a bit worried about the time because we need a good 40 minutes to get back to our B&B and the sun sets at around 7.15 pm. We don’t have our lights with us. As it turns out, I needn’t have worried. We even have time to stop at the supermarket and bancomat.

The light as we cycle home is quite lovely.

We’ve really enjoyed our stay in Padua. It has a good feel to it and is very relaxing. Despite its popularity, it feels like a place where people live and not just a tourist attraction like Lake Garda. Visiting it by bike is perfect despite the puncture. Staying out of the main area is also a good solution as it has enabled us to see another part of the city.

A part of Padua we wouldn't have seen if we hadn't been cycling — A part of Padua we wouldn’t have seen if we hadn’t been cycling

Tomorrow, we’re moving to an appartment at Arqua Petrarca 25 kilometers away for three days of cycling – the Palladian villas, the fortified towns of Mnselice, Este and Montagnana, and the Euganei hills. Fine weather is forecast for Saturday and Monday, with a maximum of 25°C, but we might have a bit of rain on Sunday morning.

Architecture, Cycling, Italy, Sightseeing, Travelling

Visiting Padua by Bike

September 17, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 6 Comments

I’ve been wanting to visit Padua for a very long time. Many years ago, we toured northern Italy and got as far as Vicenza. We can’t remember why we didn’t go any further. Our Routard guidebook tells us that the best way to visit Padua is by bike. Jean Michel is a little dubious, especially after Lake Garda which is not really geared towards cyclists, even though we made the most of the bike paths that do exist, particularly on the eastern side.

Our first glimpse of the 18th century Prato della Valle, once the site of an immense Romain theatre

We’ve reserved a B&B seven kilometers from the centre and I’m hoping we’ll be able to cycle into the old town. The Routard also says that if we buy a Padova (Padua) Pass, we can park for free in the Rabin car park just outside the historical centre. The only catch is that you have to park first, then buy the pass at the tourist office.

A close-up of some of the 78 statues of famous men, philophers, writers, men of science and doctors.

It turns out that you enter your registration number in the ticket machine, then insert one euro. You pay the balance when you come back to get the car. We set off and are very impressed by the number of people on bikes. Most of the roads have a bike path on one side, though it is usually only separated from the road by a yellow line. It doesn’t seem to pose a problem.

The second monument we see - Basilica di Sant'Antonio built in the 13th century — The second monument we see – Basilica di Sant’Antonio built in the 13th century

We get to the pedestrian only area and see that everyone is wheeling their bike. I ask at the tourist office, which is just nearby, and the lady explains it only concerns the immediate vicinity (Piazza Cavour). Elsewhere, you can cycle wherever you want. You just have to watch the pedestrians. Which we do.

Our pass costs 16 euro for 2 days and also includes free public transport and free entrance to several monuments, the most important of which is the Scrovegni Chapel which already costs 13 euro so it’s worth it. The lady then reserves our entrance to the Chapel at 2.30 pm next day which seems to me a very civilised way of doing things.

We head off for the Parco dell’Arena to have our picnic lunch (it’s an intermittent fast day) and decide what to do next. Although the old town isn’t that big, having our bikes gives us a much better choice than if we reon foot.

The 13th century Palazzo della Ragione with its sundial

We visit the Piazza della Fruta and the Piazza delle herbe where they are starting to pack up after the daily market, including a visit upstairs.

The first-floor gallery of the Palazzo della Ragione

The 13th century Venetian-style building has both a clock and a sundial.

The "stone of shame" inside the Palazzo della Ragione on which insolvent debtors were exhibited with their pants down! — The “stone of shame” inside the Palazzo della Ragione on which insolvent debtors were exhibited in their underwear!

But the oldest clock in Italy is in the nearby Piazza dei Signori, unfortunately being restored.

The oldest clock in Italy (14th century) on the Venitian-style Piazza dei Signori

At the Piazza del Duomo, we visit the Baptistry next to the cathedral with its lovely frescoes. Entrance is covered by our Padova Pass.

The 12th cedntury Battisero della Cattedrale

We’ve had enough visiting for one day so head back to the car. I have to press the SOS button on the ticket machine and give the car registration number and Padova Pass number so we can get out the car park.

The B&B is in a residential area called Noventa Padovana and has a large garden. As soon as we’ve taken our things up to the room, we take our bikes off the tailer and, following our hostess’ instructions, cycle down to the canal. So far, so good. It seems we can take the path on either side. Not far along we see the most amazing building which turns out to be Villa Giovanelli, a Paladian villa built in the 17th century.

After that, the road narrows to a couple of deep ruts and we’re no longer sure if we chose the right bank. We eventually come out on a road and don’t know whether to turn left or right. I ask another cyclist for the centro historico and he sends me to the right. We go over a bridge and see the Brenta on our left. By now it’s about 5.30 pm and people are obviously coming home from work. We follow the path along the river hoping we’re going the right way.

I ask for directions again and am told to go left over the bridge and straight on. Jean Michel is his usual doubting-Thomas self but we eventually reach an intersection that he recognises. He then takes me back to Piazza dei Signori for a cold drink.

The ride home is less eventful and takes a little over a half an hour. Wonderful ! We won’t have to take the car tomorrow to visit Padova.

Architecture, Cycling, Italy, Restaurants, Sightseeing

Cycling on Lake Garda #2: Bardolino – Lazise – Peschiera – Sirmione

September 17, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 1 Comment

The weather is rather overcast when we set out but the forecast says it’s going to improve. We’re a bit disappointed because we don’t have the magical light we had yesterday when we cycled to Malcesine.

We decide to drive to Garda 9 k to the south and stop and visit Torri del Benaco on the way. It is our closest village, after all.

The typical crenellated towers in Torri del Benaco

We admire the 14th century castle with its typical crenellations and the usual little rectangular port but the threatening rain doesn’t encourage us to linger.

There is a lot of traffic at Garda and not much hope of free parking so we push on to Bardolino another 3 K south. We find a place to park on the side of the main road just before the town and set off on our bikes into the centre. After a couple of kilometres on the main road, we find a very pleasant bike path and discover a most delightful little town, though very different from the villages between Torri and Malcesine.

We continue along the edge of the lake passing a series of camping grounds all full of German and a few Dutch campers. Our hotel is full of Germans as well. Ours is the only car without a D on it!

One of the many camping grounds along the waterfront. This one has little hillside bungalows!

As we approach Lazise, there are more and more people on the path, which is no longer reserved for bikes. We often have to get off and walk. As we finally reach Lazise, we understand why. There is a huge market and the whole town is full of people. We have trouble getting through with our bikes.

The market spreads so far that we find it difficult to even see the town!

The market on two sides of the port in Lazise

We find our way out as quickly as we can and finally come to a bike path again. The sky is clearing and the light is improving reminding us of yesterday’s magic.

The path peters out and becomes a beach. The only way out is through a camping ground that takes us up to the main road again. A bike path along the edge goes past the Caneva World and Gardaland entertainment parks but it’s not very scenic to say the least !

We finally arrive at what we think is Pescheria but is actually a marina outside. We hesitate to have lunch there but Jean Michel wants to go on to Pescheria and find something more typical. However, when we get there, it seems so full of tourists that we don’t go into the town and continue along the edge of the lake.

The view from La Congileria — The view from La Conchiglia

We’re forced back onto a bike path along the main road again, and eventually veer off to the right where we find a restaurant with a terrace called La Conchiglia which we later discover also fronts onto the main road! We’re nearly at Sirmione by then. It’s 1.30 pm and we’re hungry! We appreciate the excellent rib steak and cold house red.

A bike path along the main road then takes us up the peninsula to Sirmione which is once again packed with tourists. It’s hard to really appeciate the surroundings with so many people in every direction. We buy our ferry tickets to back to Bardolino (28 euro for us and our bikes for a one-hour-trip), find somewhere to leave the bikes and vist the town.

It's nearly the end of the bougainvillea season but it's still stunning — It’s nearly the end of the bougainvillea season but it’s still stunning

There is bougainvillea everywhere and despite the crowds and the shop fronts we can make out some lovely old buildings.

The Grottoes of Catullus built in Roman times

After the obligatory gelato, we wait for the ferry. Because we have bikes we’re taken to the top of the queue and get excellent seats on the top deck. We get a bird’s eye view of the Roman ruins of the Grottoes of Catullus and immediately regret we didn’t visit them.

Lazise from the ferry, looking much better without the market and the crowds

As we approach Lazise from the ferry, we are able to get a better view of the castle and waterfront that was obscured by the crowds in the morning. The streets are practically empty. Advice: always visit in the afternoon!

The Romanesque church of San Severo with its olive trees

We soon arrive back in Bardolino and set out in search of the little Romansque church of San Severo. We visit in turns to avoid having to lock our bikes and the second time I go past I hear singing. I assume it must be recorded music although it’s very powerful. “No”, says Jean Michel, “it’s a young girl.” I go back in but she has stopped singing. “Encore,” I say hopefully and she obligingly sings again. Her voice brings tears to my eyes.

We cycle back to the car and are soon ensconced on our balcony with the usual glass of white wine. Although today is somewhat of a disappointed after yesterday, the sunset turns out to be the best so far. and the singing is unforgettable. Tomorrow we’re off to Padua.

Cycling, Italy, Sightseeing

Cycling on Lake Garda #1 – Torri to Malcesine and Limone

September 15, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 6 Comments

Off on our summer holiday at last ! The window and the kitchen are finished and a well-deserved month is awaiting us. We are starting with Lake Garda in Italy and hoping to go to Slovenia and onto Zaghreb in Croatia and eventually to Bucarest to continue cycling along the Danube where we left off last time (Budapest). But with immigration and border problems in eastern Europe at the moment, we’re not sure how far we’ll get.

We arrive in Torri del Benaco on Lake Garda around 6 pm and head for the tourist office because our Tom-Tom can’t find the address of the hotel. At the same time we ask about cycling paths. The girl looks askance then hastily circles a few towns on the map and says “You can cycle from there to there and from there to there. Otherwise it’s on the main road.” We’ve been driving on the main road and the traffic does not look encouraging.

Our hotel, Albergo del Garda, turns out to be 4 k to the north. I had understood it was in the village itself. The idea was NOT to have to take the car for 3 days. Hmm. We arrive and see that the hotel is located directly on the main road. We receive a very stony welcome and are shown our room on the second floor without a lift. The room is very spartan and small. However, it has a balcony overlooking the lake and the view is stunning.

It has been a very fraught day (I had an attack of orthostatic hypotension at lunchtime and we had to rush out of the restaurant in Aosta and driving on the Italian motorway is not very relaxing even for a good driver like Jean Michel). I suggest that we unpack the car later and have a cold drink of wine and some olives on the balcony first. As we sit and look at the view of the lake and mountains opposite, the magic begins to work.

The sunset turns out to be quite spectacular and we at last feel we are on holidays. Rather than go out again, we eat some of my home-made bread, tomatoes from the garden and our cycling biscuits.

The lake from the cemetary in Pai looking across the main road

We wake up next morning at 8 am (early for us) due to the extremely thin walls (I could hear the man next door snoring in the night) and have breakfast, which isn’t bad for Italy which is not renowned for its prima colazione but all the guests except us are German which probably explains why it’s better than usual …

By 9.15 am we are on our bikes, on the main road, heading for Malcesine 18 K to the north where we’re taking the ferry to Limone on the other side of the lake. The view is so wonderful that I forget to be nervous as cars speed past at 90 kph. We stop several times to take photos.

The view from our first attempt at finding the cycle path

There’s supposed to be a cycle path at Castelletto di Brenzone 6 k from along the route but we have a little trouble finding it. We eventually do (there are no indications) and stop for a cold drink at Ristorante di Umberto right on the lake. It feels like heaven.

Our first stop for the day at Castelletto

We continue along the path past a busy market. It then becomes very pebbly and we hope it’s going to improve. It does and from then on, we are riding along the lake, past lovely little fishing villages with their tiny rectangular ports.

The first rectangular port in Castelletoo

The light and the colours of the lake are quite wonderful. We couldn’t hope for a better start to our holiday.

At Cassone, the last village before Malcesine, we visit a small museum devoted to life on the lake. I check the ferry timetable and see that we only have a half an hour before it departs and the next one is two hours later. We leave post haste and arrive in Malcesine with 5 minutes to spare. There is a queue for the tickets but we make just in time. We’re stunned at the price – 19.40 euro for two people and two bikes!

It takes a half an hour to go across the lake to Limone. It’s lovely being on the lake with lovely views in every direction. After starting out in the morning at 19°C it’s now 25°C and feels quite hot. We get off the ferry and are overwhelmed with the number of tourists. Everyone seems to have come to Limone for lunch, like we have!

We find a place to leave our bikes because it’s hard going with so many people and so many steep streets. We walk up a hilly street away from the main eating area in the hope of finding something a little less crowded. We eventually come to a shady restaurant overlooking the lake called Ristorante Alla Noce.

The sour-looking waiter finds us a table and brings us a menu but the view is lovely so we ignore his attitude. We share a seafood antipasto, followed by grilled lake fish for Jean Michel and a steak for me because I’m not feeling at all adventurous after yesterday. We have house wine which is very slightly frizzante like a lot of the Italian wines. The bill comes to 59 euro.

After coffee, we head back into the madding crowd and then look for our ferry which leaves from a different quay it seems. On the way, we see another boat going to Malcesine which turns out to be a bit cheaper than the official ferry (18 euro) and we don’t have to queue for tickets. The engine is very noisy and we get sprayed a bit but we enjoy the ride. We later learn that it’s 9 euro per person return but we don’t know what they usually charge for bikes.

The fresco on the Palazzo dei Capitani in Malcesine

We do a quick tour of Malcesine which, like Limone, is full of tourists and shops. It has several historical buildings including the Palazzo die Capitani built in the 13th and 14th century. You can just walk into the main room with it’s 17th century fresco.

The view while eating our ice-cream - the port in Brenzone — The view while eating our ice-cream at Porto di Brenzone

We then set off home again, stopping for a gelato at one of the little ports along the way, Porto di Brenzone.

Typical view from the bike path on the way home

The views are still lovely though we’ve lost the magical light we had in the morning. The bike path eventually gives out and we’re on the main road again. We reach our hotel at 6 pm, after cycling 39 k and a total time of 3 hours 20 mins. Nearly time for an apertif on the balcony again!

Cycling, Renovation, Travelling

I Need a Holiday

September 8, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 11 Comments

At 2 am this morning, we finished the kitchen after exactly 3 months. Jean Michel has done a splendid job but we are both exhausted! The tiles on the left of the window are the 18th century tiles we bought in Portugal last September.

The rest of this week will be spent getting the house ready for the paying guests who are coming while we are on holiday. In fact, our favourite guests, Sandy and Bill, who are coming to stay for the 4th year in a row, will get to try out the new kitchen before we do. I want to apply a special protective coating to the grouting between the tiles and I need the grouting to dry for 3 days and then for the protective coating to dry 36 hours which takes us to our departure on Sunday.

Our first stop is Lake Garda for at least 3 days, cycling along the eastern side, then we’ll work our way across Italy – we’ve never been to Padua – through Slovenia and then Croatia (Zaghreb) and maybe onto Bucharest or Budapest to continue cycling along the Danube. We will be guided by the weather and possible cycling areas. I will be drawing inspiration from all Anda’s posts on Romania in her wonderful travel blog Travel Notes and Beyond.

Until we leave, you may not hear from me again but once we get going, I’ll probably be posting every second day. While Jean Michel writes up the travel journal, I write my posts.

Cycling, Loire Valley

Cycling along the Loire: Beaugency – Meung sur Loire – Clery Saint André

August 28, 2015 Rosemary Kneipp 8 Comments

There is a saying in France that 15th August which is a public holiday heralds the end of summer and with 15°C at 11 am on Sunday 16th, it seems as though it might be true. At least it’s sunny.

We arrive in Tavers, 40 minutes by car from Blois, around midday. We’ve chosen Tavers as our starting point rather than Beaugency in order to add on a few kilometers to reach our usual 40 K return. We’re not disappointed. It’s a pretty little town with a well-decorated town hall and the short cycle path to Beaugency is very pleasant, especially the view of the oldest bridge over the Loire as we approach the town.

Beaugency bridge from the bike path coming from Tavers

We’ve already cycled to Beaugency before but from Mer. We’ll visit the town again on the way back particularly as I recently came here with an Australian friend and discovered a few things I hadn’t seen before and would like to show them to Jean Michel. We’re intending to have lunch in Meung-sur-Loire and don’t want to get there too late.

Vineyards along the cycle path between Beaugency and Meung-sur-Loire

It’s a good cycle path mainly running along the river past vineyards and other crops. On the way, we suddenly come across a local fête in what seems like the middle of nowhere. There aren’t many people so we hope things will liven up during the afternoon.

A local fête on the bike path in the middle of nowhere

As we enter Meung, we see the main road is closed off. It’s the end of the Sunday morning market which mainly revolves around the old Halles or covered market. I later learn it was built in 1940 and renovated in 1985.

Arriving in Meung at the end of the market

We cycle up the little hill to Place du Martroi in front of Saint Liphard collegiate church and castle that we intend to visit after lunch. The last stragglers are still buying produce at the market stalls. We find a table at Le Café du Commerce, a traditional brasserie, and order fish and chips, a dish which has become very popular in France in recent times and varies considerably in quality. It’s not wonderful but still OK.

Next stop, the château, where we learn there are jousting matches today. There are a few people in mediaeval dress and a circle of spectators around the jousters. It all looks very amateurish and good fun. The kids and jousters are certainly getting a kick out of it. We hope there will be more people as the afternoon wears on.

Meung-sur-Loire is a privately owned castle which claims to be one of the largest and oldest châteaux in the Loire. It is badly in need of major renovation, especially some of the roofs. It isn’t a princely castle but the owners have gone out of their way to attract visitors. Many kings, including François I and Louis XI stayed here, it seems.

The bishop's bathroom in Meung castle — The bishop’s bathroom in Meung castle – very modern at the time

There are several unusual exhibitions, including a bishop’s bathroom, very luxurious for the times.

The church tower in Meung seen from the grounds of the castle

After climbing up to the rafters, we go down into the dungeons which explain why it once served as a prison.

More people are arriving as we leave in the hope of seeing jousting on horseback but it’s already 3.30 pm and it was supposed to start at 3. There are no sign of the horses.

Mediaeval tents in front of the castle in Meung next to the jousting ring

We cross the river to the other side and I am surprised and delighted to see a special traffic light for bikes.

The special traffic light for bikes just outside Meung

After a few kilometers along the river, we branch off to Cléry-Saint-André to visit the Notre Dame Basilica which is also a collegiate church and royal chapel. After many trials and tribulations it was reconstructed in the 17th century. We’ve been here before but it was cold and wet and the church was closed. The town is rather deserted but more attractive than last time.

Rather than go back the way we came, we decide to follow the loop indicated by the tourist office, which turns out to be a mistake. There is nothing very attractive about the return trip and we are pleased to get back to Beaugency, especially as the last 3 kilometers are on a busy road.

The square in Beaugency that we missed last time

At Beaugency, I take Jean Michel past the castle and on to the square we missed last time. There is a brasserie there and I’m hoping for an ice-cream. Unfortunately it’s closed and we don’t find anywhere else open that’s selling decent ice-creams so we have a cold drink instead.

The abbey church seen from the café where we didn’t have an ice-cream

It doesn’t take long to get back to Tavers. We’re very happy to have visited the castle in Meung and seen Beaugency again – but we won’t do the loop again!

Aussie in France