Category Archives: Architecture

Chateauneuf, my secret hill village – La Charcuterie – Musée Nissim de Camodo, Paris

Print pagePDF pageEmail page

Some more Australian connections for this Wednesday’s Bloggers’ Round-up, starting with Phoebe from Lou Messugo, who takes us on a visit to Châteauneuf in the south of France; Susan from Days on the Claise who describes her local charcuterie in Touraine and Carolyn from My Sydney Paris Life who gives us a very moving description of the beautiful Nissim de Camondo museum in Paris. Enjoy!

Châteauneuf, my secret hill village

by Phoebe from Lou Messugo, a traveller, francophile, expat, mum and foodie now living in Roquefort les Pins where she runs a gîte after many years of travelling and living in Asia, Eastern Europe and Australia.

chateauneufThe Alpes-Maritimes is bursting with a multitude of pretty hill villages, called “villages perchés” in French, built during the middle ages in strategic spots on mountain tops and hill sides. There are at least 15 within half an hour’s drive of Lou Messugo, all with their own charm and more or less renovated/developed for tourists or left in an authentic untouched state. But there is one so close and yet so hidden that many people visiting the area wouldn’t even realise it exists. (I’d be prepared to bet a significant amount of local residents don’t realise there’s a medieval “perched” bit either). I’m talking about the village of Châteauneuf de Grasse on the outskirts of its famous neighbour, Grasse. Read more

La Charcuterie

by Susan from Days on the Claise, an Australian living in the south of the Loire Valley, writing about restoring an old house and the area and its history, and running Loire Valley Time Travel.

charcuterie1The charcuterie in Preuilly is well patronised and they have a good range of products. Most are made in house, some brought in. French charcuteries focus mainly on value added pork products — often cured, but sometimes simply cooked and ready to eat. They also do salads and prepared dishes. This is because many of them, like the one in Preuilly, are also traiteurs (caterers). Read more

A Legacy of Beauty and Remembrance: Musée Nissim de Camondo, Paris

by Carolyn Barnabo from My Sydney Paris Life, writing about global families and change and life in special geographic places that have captured her heart

nissim_museumEarlier this week, Clive and I visited Paris’s Musée Nissim de Camondo. In the days since then, we’ve often found ourselves returning to the story of the family whose sad, horrific history shaped our experience of spending time in what was once their home.

The first time I read about Musée Nissim de Camondo was in Edmund White’s ‘The Flâneur’ (2001). I know little about ‘decorative arts’ and tire quickly of stately homes brimming with historic furniture and all manner of objects — I’d rather explore the gardens and grounds outside. But White’s recounting of the de Camondos’ personal story grabbed me and I’ve had this museum on my Paris to-do list ever since. Read more

 

Monday’s Travel Photos – Angers Castle, France

Print pagePDF pageEmail page

We had passed the castle in Angers on many occasions on our way to Nantes before finally visiting it during a cycling trip. The impressive ramparts of the 13th century fortress built on a spur overlooking the Maine River enclose several buildings, including the Royal Logis and 15th century Chapel. However, its greatest claim to fame is  the Apocalypse Tapestry  produced between 1377 and 1382, the oldest French mediaeval tapestry to have survived. It consists of six sections, each 24 metres x 6 metres, comprising 90 different scenes, focussing on the heroic aspects of the last confrontation between good and evil. Definitively worth a visit.

Angers Castle Keep
Angers Castle Keep
Angers Castle from the side of the ramparts
Angers Castle from the side of the ramparts
Formel garden in the old moat
Formel garden in the old moat
Chapel at Angers Castle
Chapel at Angers Castle
Small building
Logis Royal next to the chapel
Lion King from the Apocalypse Tapestry
Lion King from the Apocalypse Tapestry
The Slaying of the Dragon
The Slaying of the Dragon
View of the Loire from the castle ramparts
View of the Loire from the castle ramparts
Landscaped garden
Landscaped garden
Overhead view of ramparts (photo taken from poster)
Overhead view of ramparts (photo taken from poster)

Fabulous Gaudi Interiors – La Pedrera

Print pagePDF pageEmail page

Since we’ve come back from Barcelona, I have got a bit sidetracked, what with fireplaces that smoke and snow in March. But I still have a couple more posts to write, and one of them is Gaudi’s La Pedrera. I’ve already talked about the chimneys and the façade.

Scale model of La Pedrera
Scale model of La Pedrera

You may remember that La Pedrera was built between 1906 and 1912 by Pere Milà and Roser Segimon and is a six-storey apartment building of which they occupied the main floor. The building has two vestibules, both of which are big enough to allow vehicles to go down to the basement, amazing foresight when you consider the year of construction.

Provença Vestibule
Provença Vestibule

The Provença vestibule has a lift, a staircase going down to the basement and another going up to the first floor.  It also houses the caretaker’s loggia. The ceilings and walls are decorated with paintings inspired by Ovid’s Metamorphoses, especially the seven capital sins.

Large corridor providing access to the different rooms
Large corridor providing access to the different rooms

Today, the fourth floor apartment is the only one open to visitors. The home and life of a bourgois Barcelona family during the first third of the 20th century have been re-created, including all the original elements of a typical La Pedrera apartment, such as the door knobs, drawers, mouldings, doors and flooring.

Dining room
Dining room

Appropriate furniture, works of art, decorative elements, fabrics and household items of the time have been added to give visitors an idea of what it was like to live there.

Duo seat by Gaudi
Double Bench by Gaudi

As I mentioned in another post, Gaudi designed furniture as well, and a couple of pieces are exhibited, plus a video showing how to use them. He was into ergonomics way before his time!

master_bedroom

The actual design of the apartment is open plan, with much larger volumes than usual. However, rooms such as the utility room and the maid’s room are surprisingly small.

Attic with its catenary arches
Attic with its catenary arches

The attic area, which was designed to house the water tanks and washing lines, consists of no fewer than two hundred and seventy catenary arches of different heights that hold up the roof. Today it’s used as an exhibition area for Gaudi’s life and work.

Oh no, snow again in Paris!

Print pagePDF pageEmail page

When I woke up and saw the snow yesterday, I was not happy. I was already in spring mode and the idea of temperatures below zero AGAIN was not appealing in the least. As it was, we were very lucky to have got home from Blois without being trapped for hours like many weekenders from Normandy.

Snow in the Palais Royal yesterday morning
Snow in the Palais Royal yesterday morning

It snowed ALL DAY and I was not tempted to go outside. However, I had signed up for a Tweet-up organised by Tom and Monique Reeves from Discover Paris and since it was being held in Caveau Montpensier just across the Palais Royal gardens, I donned my warmest clothes and set out in the falling snow.

Snowing in the Palais Royal in the afternoon
Snowing in the Palais Royal in the afternoon

Not surprisingly, there weren’t many of us there but small numbers have their advantages because I was able to talk to most of the people present. Afterwards, Adrian Leeds who runs a real estate agency for expats, Lisa from Flavors of Paris who runs walking/tasting tours in Paris, Donna Morris from Best Friend in Paris, who gives localised tours of the city, and Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris, whose very interesting posts I’ve often featured in my Wednesday’s Blogger Round-Up, walked down the road to have Japanese food at Higuma.

Snow on the pyramid at night
Snow on the pyramid at night

As we left at about 9 pm, despite the wind and sleet, Mary Kay said she was going to the Louvre to take photos. I couldn’t resist and shall be eternally grateful. Otherwise, I would NEVER have taken this photo! Our hands were excessively cold by the time we left but it was certainly worth it.

Snowing on the Louvre
Snowing on the Louvre

Mary Kay then suggested that I come back again early next morning because the pyramids would be looking great with the snow and ice in the sun. When I fell out of bed at 8 am (I am not an early bird by any manner of means), I must say that the view outside my window was very tempting despite the fact that it was zero degrees.

Snow in the Palais Royal gardens this morning
Snow in the Palais Royal gardens this morning

So after a quick breakfast I put on my heavy-soled walking shoes and set out, walking gingerly over the icy patches like everyone else. I felt sorry for the smart executives with their high heels and leather soles but I didn’t see anyone actually fall. There were some young Japanese tourists sliding across Rue de Rivoli but I wasn’t taking any chances.

Empty chairs in the Palais Royal garden this morning
Empty chairs in the Palais Royal garden this morning

The sun over the icy pyramids really was wonderful but I had to keep putting my hands back in my pockets after each photo to stop the frost bite.

Sun on the Louvre pyramids
Sun on the Louvre pyramids

When I got back to the appartment, I drank a whole pot of hot tea!

Sun on the Rue de Rivoli wing of the Louvre
Sun on the Rue de Rivoli wing of the Louvre

Monday’s Travel Photos – Château de Chaumont, Loire Valley, France

Print pagePDF pageEmail page

When I first visited Château de Chaumont in 1997, I found it very delapidated. Last summer we spent a wonderful afternoon there during the annual garden festival. I discovered yesterday that it has been totally renovated inside and is now quite stunning! The château as it stands today was rebuilt by Pierre Ier d’Amboise en 1468, then by Charles II d’Amboise from 1498 to 1511. The construction was continued in 1562 when Diane de Poitiers was ousted from Chenonceau by Catherine de Medicis. It was restored by Prince de Broglie  between 1875 and 1900 at which time the stables were also added.

Chaumont in summer
Chaumont in summer
The entrance to the château with its stone frieze
The entrance to the château with its stone frieze
The bedroom of Cosimo Ruggieri, one of Catherine de Medicis' astrologists
The bedroom of Cosimo Ruggieri, one of Catherine de Medicis’ astrologists
Catherine de Medicis' bedroom
Catherine de Medicis’ bedroom
A view of the Loire showing an allegorical bas relief
A view of the Loire showing an allegorical bas relief
The main staircase with its beautifully sculpted central pillar
The main staircase with its beautifully sculpted central pillar
The dining room with its Gothic fireplace
The dining room with its Gothic fireplace
One of the many grisailles
One of the many grisailles
The library with its Aubusson tapistries
The library with its Aubusson tapistries
Monumental fireplace in the Grand Salon
Monumental fireplace in the Grand Salon
The inner courtyard with its Renaissance staircase
The inner courtyard with its Renaissance staircase
Stables built by Prince de Broglie in 1877
Stables built by Prince de Broglie in 1877

The hottest new pop-up bar in Paris with a stunning view of the Eiffel Tower – Top 12 Patisseries in Paris – Scallops & St Peter

Print pagePDF pageEmail page

This week, in Wednesday’s blogger round-up, Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris takes us to a pop-up bar (a new concept for me) in Paris where she was tempted by the sin of gluttony. I can’t wait to try it out! Andrea from Rearview Mirror shares her top 12 patisseries in Paris from a host of wonderful neighbourhoods while Niall and Antoinette from Chez Charmizay explore an intriguing “monument historique” in the Loire Valley. Enjoy!

The hottest new pop-up bar in Paris with a stunning view of the Eiffel Tower: 180 Restaurant and Bar at the Pullman Hotel

by Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris, an American by birth, Swiss by marriage, resident of Paris with a Navigo Pass for the metro that she feels compelled to use

pop_up_barBetter hurry! The clock is ticking and there are only 126 days, 13 hours and 26 minutes left to enjoy one of the most spectacular views of city from the hottest new pop-up bar in Paris.

Situated on the 10th floor of the Pullman Hotel, the bar offers an intimate encounter with the Eiffel Tower in all its sparkling glory. Watching the day fade into night as we sipped glasses of Veuve Clicquot champagne with friends visiting from the States yesterday evening, Stephane and I regretted that we hadn’t reserved a table for dinner. In keeping with the theme, the pop-up bar has specially concocted drinks and menu items honoring the seven deadly sins. With offerings like le Charnel (the carnal), a savory cheesecake, and le Sensual (the sensual) a sweet cheesecake, I was sorely tempted by the sin of gluttony. Read more

Top 12 Patisseries in Paris

by Andrea from Rear View Mirror (formerly Destination Europe), a fellow Australian who, after 6 years of living in France, has given up herParis apartment to live a nomadic life slowing travelling around Europe, experiencing each destination like a local

lille-france-17I naively thought I could list my top 10 favourite patisseries in Paris but there are too many great places to choose from so I decided to share my top 12. All are located in fantastic neighbourhoods ideal for a city break in Paris. If you’re planning a visit to Paris and want to live like a local, Go with Oh have a number of apartments perfect for a short stay. Read more

Scallops & St Peter

by Niaill, a Scotsman, and Antoinette, a Dutch American, from Chez Charnizay, who live in the village of the same name in southern Touraine  and blog about their adventures in the Loire Valley.

scallops_saint_peter

The town of L’Île-Bouchard straddles the river Vienne and we’ve written about the capitals of the ruined Prieuré de Saint-Léonard there before. On the south side of the Vienne river, just before you reach it, is a small village called Parçay-sur-Vienne.

We decided to have a quick look to see if the village church was of interest before heading on towards L’Île-Bouchard and Chinon: it was a another case of one of those slightly battered and faded ‘monument historique’ signs which intrigued us. Read more

Monday’s Travel Photos: Chateau de Cheverny, Loire Valley

Print pagePDF pageEmail page

When we visited Cheverny today, I was amazed at how beautiful it is inside. I did not remember any of the state rooms, only the bedrooms which I found disappointing during my last visit over ten years go. The domaine has been in the same family for six centuries and open to the public since 1922. The château as it stands today was built between 1624 and 1640 by Count Henri Hurault and his wife Marguerite Gaillard de la Marinière. The sumptuous interior decoration is by Jean Monier from Blois. It is the only major château to have retained its original furniture. Fifteen thousand bulbs are planted in the gardens each year, so if you can, time your visit for spring!

Front façade
Front façade
Painted ceiling in the Grand Dining Room
Painted ceiling in the Grand Dining Room

 

Fireplace in the Arms Room
Fireplace in the Arms Room

 

Stone sculpture on main staircase
Stone sculpture on main staircase

 

The family dining room with its matching table cloth and porcelain with the family arms
The family dining room with its matching table cloth and porcelain with the family arms

 

Painted shutters in the Arms Room
Painted shutters in the Arms Room

 

Late 18th century Erard harp in perfect working order
Late 18th century Erard harp in perfect working order

 

Painted door in the Grand Drawing Room
Painted door in the Grand Drawing Room

 

North façade of Cheverny
North façade of Cheverny

 

The Orangery
The Orangery

 

Rin Tin Tin & Rusty exhibition - Cheverny was the "model" for Moulinsart Château in several comic books
Tintin exhibition – Cheverny is the “model” for Marlinspike Hall (Moulinsart in French), Captain Haddock’s residence in the Tintin comics, created by the Belgian author and illustrator Hergé

 

Fabulous Gaudi Interiors – Casa Batllo

Print pagePDF pageEmail page

I loved Casa Batlló as soon as I saw it. All those lovely mauves and blues and pinks on the façade. I’m a romantic at heart and my favourite painters are the impressionists and art deco artists such as Mucha and the Nancy school. The inside has soft curves and beautifully coloured ceramics. This is Gaudi without being gaudy. To get a really good idea of the façade, click on the official website.

One of the beautiful staircases
One of the beautiful staircases

I loved the lovely wooden doors with their curved shapes and lead lights.

Door and window detail

Top of double doors

Top of double doors 

Like Guell Palace, Casa Batlló also has a gallery overlooking the street below.

Front gallery overlooking the street

 

 

Front gallery overlooking the street

This wood stove and benches must have been a favourite sitting area.

The lovely wood stove in its alcove

 

The lovely wood stove in its alcove

The Battló’s had five children and I’m sure they all loved the appartment, particularly the cobalt-blue tiled inside stairwell which can be seen from the different rooms built around it.

Batllo family
Batllo family

Gaudi extended the inner courtyard to add more light and ventilate the rooms. It is big enough to take a lift. The azulejos tiling consists of 5 different shades that get darker as you go up the stairs to achieve a uniform colour. The darker tiles, which are closer to the roof, reflect less light, while the white tiles reflect more.

The stairwell looking up to the skylight
The stairwell looking up to the skylightStairwell wall
Stairwell wall

The elevated terrace at the back, with its ceramics and mosaics, is much more attractive than that of Guell Palace. I love the details up the top.

Back façade seen from terrace
Back façade seen from terrace

The house is no longer furnished but this wash basin looks extremely modern, doesn’t it?

A very modern-looking wash basin

Don't you love the wavy walls?

Don’t you love the wavy walls?

When you keep going up the stairs, of course, you get to the roof with its wonderful chimneys that I described in a previous post.

Fabulous Gaudi Interiors – Guell Palace

Print pagePDF pageEmail page

Judging by the somewhat austere façade of Guell Palace, what would you expect to find inside?

Entrance
Entrance

As soon as you walk into the double vestibule designed to make it easier for carriages to go in and out, you are struck by the juxtaposition and opulence of the different materials: stone pillars, steel beams with visible rivets, wooden ceilings with intricate caissons and incrustations, massive doors with beautiful wrought iron work, coloured leadlight windows and embossed leather chairs.

Lead lights and embossed door
Lead lights and embossed door

A horse ramp takes you down into the basement with its stunning vaulted ceilings that once housed the stables. You walk up the stairs and find yourself in an antechamber from which you can see the central room with its parabolic dome and real organ! Gaudi had ten children, who were all very musical and he himself was a great lover of music. His daughter, Isabel, was a well-known composer and musicians often played in the palace.

Central room
Central room

Natural and artifical light penetrates the room through circular openings in the dome. While we were there, the organ suddenly burst into life, taking visitors by surprise. It was a magical experience.

Guell's private organ
Guell’s private organ

On one side of the central room is the lobby in the centre of the gallery overhanging the street, with its parabolic windows.

Lobby with its oblong arches and caisson ceiling
Lobby with its oblong arches and caisson ceiling

There’s a chapel on one side that could be closed off to form an oratory or opened up for services. The walls are covered in sheet brass and the doors are decorated with slivers of bone and turtleshell.

The oratory
The oratory

All the furniture in the dining room with its beautiful polychrome leather backed chairs is original. The décor was designed by Camil Oliveras, who worked with Gaudi.

Dining room
Dining room

Upstairs are the bedrooms. Count Guell  and his wife Isabel each had their own bedroom with an en-suite bathroom, most unusual for the time. Apparently they didn’t often live in the palace because Isabel didn’t like it very much. I can understand why. Even though the architecture is very avant-garde, it seems more like a showpiece than a home. I personally wouldn’t have liked to sleep in her bedroom.

Oriel window from terrace
Oriel window from terrace

There is a back terrace with a rather unattractive oriel window with louvres to protect the inside from the sun. There are several other small rooms that I haven’t mentioned, including the younger Isabel’s bedroom which is surprisingly on the main floor behind the oratory.

Main bedroom
Main bedroom

The other rooms are not open to the public and I described the chimneys on the roof in a previous post. Guell’s oldest daughter Mercé inherited the house but eventually turned it over to the State because she couldn’t afford the upkeep. It was declared  a National Monument in 1969 and added to the World Heritage list in 1985, the first modern building to receive that distinction.

Cloister screen
Cloister screen

Gaudi’s Fabulous Facades

Print pagePDF pageEmail page

I hope you’re not sick of Gaudi yet because I still want to tell you about Guell Palace, Casa Batlló and Casa Mila, also known as La Pedrera, all three of which are on the Unesco World Heritage list. You’ve already seen the chimneys which I think are probably the most exciting part, but there are lots of other very interesting features as well. We visited the houses in the order in which they were built, as I thought it would be interesting to see the progression.

Front entrance to Guell Palace
Front entrance to Guell Palace

Personally, if I didn’t have time to see all the houses, I would give perference to Casa Batlló, then Guell Palace but I have friends who liked La Pedrera best. The entrance fees range from 12 euro per person including a very good audioguide for Guell Palace, 20.35 euro each with a good audioguide for Casa Batlló and 16.50 euro each with a terrible audioguide for La Pedrera.

Façade of main floor of Casa Batllo
Façade of main floor of Casa Batllo

The queues were not very long, but I imagine it’s very different in the summer. You can book on-line at the following websites: Casa Bottló: http://www.casabatllo.es/en/buy-ticket/general-ticket/, payment by credit card or Paypal and La Pedrera: http://www.lapedrera.com/en/buy-your-ticket. I couldn’t find any sign of on-line bookings for Guell Palace.

Front façade of La Pedrera
Front façade of La Pedrera

I thought I’d start with a comparison of the façades and describes the interiors in a subsquent post. Guell palace was built between 1885 and 1890. When construction began, Eusebi Guell, a rich textile manufacturer with a solid background in economics, law, science and the humanities, was 39 and Gaudi was only 34 and keen to break with tradition, with the unmitigated support of Guell. You may remember that Gaudi took on the Sagrada Familia in 1883 at the age of 31.

Tribune at Guell Palace
Tribune at Guell Palace

The façade is quite austere compared with the other houses.  It has unusal parabolic arches with intricate wrought-iron work in the middle topped by a Venetian style tribune with leadlight windows. The rest of the façade is made of stone.

Close-up of Battlo façade
Close-up of Battlo façade

Nothing could be more different than the façade of Casa Batlló. It is located on Passeig de Gracia, a favourite promenade with the local bourgeois families. The house was 20 years old when Josep Battló bought it in 1903. He thought it looked somewhat dull next to its neighbour, Amatller, so he decided to call in Gaudi who, at 52, was at the height of his popularity, having started work on Guell Park in 1900.

Amatller and Casa Batllo
Amatller and Casa Batllo

Gaudi kept the original structure and added two additional levels; the façade was a complete remake and is covered in the most wonderful mosaic work, along with other highly original details such as wavy walls, mask-shaped balconies, bone-like pillars, giving it the nickname of “Casa dels ossos” or the “House of Bones” and enlarged windows, for which it was dubbed “Casa Dels badall”s or the” House of Yawns”.   The roof is shaped like the back of a dragon.

Side façade of La Pedrera
Side façade of La Pedrera

In 1905, Père Milà and Roser Segimon, a rich widow, decided to invest her fortune in a large piece of land further down the same street and commissioned Gaudi to build a six-storey apartment building of which they would occupy the 1,300 sq.m. main floor. There was a lot of friction between the architect and the promoters who didn’t appreciate having to pay out more and more money for bold decorative effects and construction principles that were strongly criticised by the press.

Wrought-iron balcony at Pedrera from inside
Wrought-iron balcony at Pedrera from inside

Its nickname of La Pedrera, which means “quarry” in Catalan, is due to its three cream-coloured stone façades which change colour as the light waxes and wanes. With their wavy lines,  extravagant wrought-iron balconies and 150 windows, the overall effect is like billowing waves.

Guell Palace: open Tuesday to Sunday, 10 am to 8 pm in summer (April 1st to October 31st), 10 am to 5.40 pm in winter (November 1st to March 31st). Free on the first Sunday of every month, April 23, May 18th and September 24th. There are limited free tickets so check the website. Closed Mondays, except holidays, 25th and 26th December, 1st January and 6th to 13th January.
 
Casa Battlo: open Monday to Sunday, 9 am to 9 pm, all year round.
 
La Pedrera: open Monday to Sunday, 9 am to 8 pm in Summer (1st March to 4th November), 9 am to 6.30 pm in winter (5th November to 28th February), 11 am to 6.30 pm on 1st January. Closed 25th December and 7th to 13th January. 
Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...