We went to Rome in August when all the Romans flee the city, of course, to places like the Tivoli Gardens, because it’s too hot. The only way to survive was to get up early then go back to our air-conditioned apartment for a long siesta before venturing out again in the late afternoon. Not surprisingly, one of the greatest attractions were the fountains. Below are my favourites, some of which I can locate, others not. Maybe someone can fill in the missing information.
As I mentioned in a previous post, I have been nominated for the 2012 Expat Blog Award (you still have time to write a review if you haven’t already done so 🙂 – just click on the logo on the right and scroll down to Aussie in France). Expats Blog currently unites 942 expat blogs in 93 countries with their latest blog posts, blog reviews, expat interviews & contests. Their news team bring daily topical news items from around the globe.
The team also asked if they could interview me for their website www.expatsblog.com and I was happy to comply. Here’s the beginning of the interview. I’d just like to mention that the photo was taken when I was talking to my son Leonardo when we were holidays recently in Australia.
Rosemary Kneipp knew from a very early age that she wanted to live in Europe. She learnt French at school and her university studies were aimed at achieving fluency in the language and getting a job in France. She has never regretted her choice and although she enjoys visiting Australia, France corresponds to her mindset in every way. Both her children were born and grew up in France and her husband is French. She doesn’t ever feel like a foreigner. In fact, when she goes to Australia, she feels as though she doesn’t belong there any more. Although she never thought she would want to leave Paris, she is looking forward to her new life in the Loire Valley in two years’ time and is spending lots of short holidays there in the meantime. Rosemary blogs at her site called Aussie in France. Read more
When my Australian friends Mei Lun and Alain were staying at Closerie Falaiseau recently, they wanted to try out a restaurant in their guide book called “Le rendezvous des pecheurs” which means “The Fishermen’s Rendez-vous”. As it turned out, we didn’t go there for various reasons but had an enjoyable evening at “L’Embarcadère” instead.
However, after a hard day’s work last Friday, I suggested to Relationnel that we go there for dinner. We had been some years ago and could remember the very attractive setting, but not the food. I booked a table for 8.30 and off we went.
It was a cold, windy night and when we arrived, only one table was occupied, which was a bit worrying. We were taken into the second room by a friendly waitress. The restaurant used to be an épicerie or grocery store and bar frequented by the local Loire fishermen and the original counter is still there, decorated with a trompe l’œil dresser. Written aound the walls are quotes from menus.
We rashly asked for champagne (I say rashly because we forgot to check the price first!) then ordered from the menu. Rationnel had lobster with ox cheek stew (which I personally didn’t like) but he said was tasty and chose pike for his main course, while I took what I thought was foie gras for starters followed by sea scallops.
The chef obviously likes experimenting but he has not succeeded in “awakening the taste buds” as you would expect in a gastronomic restaurant. The foie gras was actually the best thing I ate, but it was not foie gras; it was mixed with something else. In fact, that was true of everything we had. The scallops were not whole scallops and the pike was actually a quenelle.
We decided not to have dessert or coffee. Our champagne (one glass each) and local sauvignon (also one glass) plus starters and main course came to a whopping 165 euro. Had we enjoyed the meal, we wouldn’t have minded. But we were more than disappointed. Only one other couple came in during the whole evening which is not surprising. I don’t know how long the restaurant can last but I won’t be going back!
I don’t know how long I’m going to survive my inability to make cappuccino without having a nervous breakdown. This probably says a lot that I don’t want to know about my character, particularly at my age when there’s not much hope of making any appreciable improvements.
I spend every solitary meal (Relationnel has gone back to Paris for a day or so) watching cappuccino videos on my iPad in English and in French made by people who get it right every time, each using a different method. Just to depress myself further, I watch cappuccino art videos as well which show how to make dragons and butterflies with rich creamy foam that appears like magic.
I don’t of course have a suitable jug because it’s in my missing suitcase so I’ve ordered two new stainless steel ones from a specialist coffee accessory website. I check every couple of hours to see the progress of the parcel as it winds its way across France. I’m a little worried though that once I get the jugs, I still won’t be able to make the milk froth properly.
However, I’ve now found a coffee forum where professional baristas complain about not being able to make a proper cappuccino. I don’t know whether that is a good or a bad sign but I have learnt from them that frothing milk varies with the type of coffee machine which partly explains all the different methods.
What is even more depressing is that I don’t even manage to make decent coffee every time with my outrageously expensive machine and I haven’t even tried grinding the coffee beans with it yet ! Before, I had a cheap-O one we bought (first-hand mind you) in a “quick cash” shop which at least systematically made good coffee.
It came however with a basic airtightness defect which Relationnel solved initially but it eventually leaked which makes it a little dangerous. I was convinced that its cheapness was responsible for my not being able to make creamy froth. I was wrong. What I’m making now is much worse. At least I used to get it averagely thick most of the time with the old machine.
It is obvious to me that it’s like mayonnaise. The day you understand what you’re really doing, you always get it right, regardless of the time of the month, as many French people believe. I need to see someone do it properly and practise until I get it right. I just tried three times in a row, to no avail. On the coffee forum, they tell you to use a large jug that’s been in the freezer so that you have more time to get the foam going.
Of course now I’m afraid my jugs aren’t big enough. I’m hoping the parcel delivery man will turn up soon and put me out of my misery. I also have to buy more fresh milk which means driving 5 K to the supermarket. Sigh.
This Wednesday, Jeff Titelius from Euro Travelogue takes us on a tour of Christmas markets in Germany with stunning photos that all look by picture postcards. Fellow Australian, Carolyn Lee, from Escape to Paris, gives lots of suggestions for maintaining your French when not in France and Bread is Pain talks about French phlegm. Enjoy!
Herald in the holidays and Advent this year with an unforgettable visit to one of Germany’s classic Christmas markets or Christkindlmarkts as they are known locally. Steeped in centuries-old traditions and customs, you can find a Christmas market in just about every landmark city and storybook village throughout Germany—town squares that come alive with the sights and sounds and smells of Christmas! Lining historic city-centre squares, hundreds of elaborately decorated Alpine chalets are brimming with traditionally hand-crafted gifts and festive ornaments, not to mention the savory indulgences of food and Glühwein or mulled wine of course—hard to resist after their tantalizing aromas reach your cold little noses! Read more
The great challenge for Australian francophones is maintaining our French, given our distance from France. Even with one or two trips per year, as some of us are able to make, there are still long fallow periods when we’re not using French for many months at a stretch. I’m always interested to hear other Aussie Francophones tell how they do their ‘maintenance’. The most fluent people, from my small and fairly random sampling, seem to keep up their French by reading French books on a regular basis, preferably daily, and this is also what I do. Read more
by Bread is Pain, a 30-something American living in the Rhone-Alps, and slowly eating and drinking herself through the country
So the other night MB and I were sitting watching an episode of French Masterchef. The contestants were in the middle of a challenge in which they had to create a thin hollow ball made of out sugar (not exactly like the BBQ challenges of US Masterchef). In one part of the challenge it was necessary to roll out and work the hot sugar “dough” which is at a dangerously high temperature, they have to wear special gloves. One contestant is working his dough and talking about how hot it is and how you must be very careful. The contestant next to him then accidentally sticks her naked elbow into the dough and lets out a scream. Read more
The Big Fireplace Operation is obviously taking longer than expected, but that is no surprise. Renovations always take longer than expected. First, Relationnel underestimated the size of the fireplace itself. Second, it turns out that someone along the way used it incorrectly resulting in a thing called bistre which is a brownish substance made of burnt soot and tar and can burn your house down if not removed.
Bistre is removed by tapping away with a pickaxe. You may remember that I moved down to Blois temporarily to escape the renovations on my balcony in Paris. Well, it’s the same sort of noise. My office is just next door. I do not, however, have to listen to a radio blasting away and workmen shouting at each other. And there are no pneumatic drills.
Before removing the bistre, Relationnel also chipped off the facing of the upper part of the fireplace, above the mantel, revealing a triangular-shaped hole. He had previously propped up the sunken mantle which had been erroneously reinforced with a horizontal bar by someone who obviously didn’t realize (I’m sure I would have …) that the metal would expand when the fire was lit and push the sides of the fireplace further, causing the mantle to sink even further.
At this juncture, a visit to BricoDepot was needed to buy some bright orange mason’s trestles. I must have been really desperate to get out the house to go on that excursion! First, you identify what you want in a catalogue, then you pay for it. You get one of those little raffle tickets that you give to the warehouseman when it’s your turn. He takes you to the storage area and unloads your purchases onto a large trolley. Then you get his mate to stamp your raffle ticket. You can tell why it’s the cheapest DIY place around.
The mason’s trestles are needed so that Relationnel can remove the mantle, which consists of several large stones with plaster holding them together, in preparation of the next phase. The sides of the fireplace also needed to be sanded down to remove various layers of paint. That also produced a somewhat unnerving noise.
In the meantime, we got a call from Mr Previous Owner whom we had told about the Big Fireplace Operation. You know that big, square jagged hole above the mantle? Mr PO told us it happened when the crest stone with the construction date of the house – 1584 – was removed for renovation. The stone was damaged beyond repair. I always thought that was a bit strange because none of the fireplaces are in working order. Anyway, he had a new crest stone made by a stone cutter’s school somewhere along the way using a photo of the original and gave it to us when we got the keys to the house.
Well, it turns out to be a little more complicated. It seems that Mr Previous Previous Owner had to sell the house because of his divorce and wanted a keepsake – SO HE REMOVED THE CREST STONE. Can you imagine that anyone who loved historical buildings enough to buy Closerie Falaiseau and undertake its entire renovation would destroy its very soul? The man is delinquant.
Mr PO, who has remained in contact with Mr PPO for some reason, phoned him and asked him if he would return the crest stone to us since we’re renovating the fireplace . Mr PO believed he was going to do so, but when Relationnel spoke to Mr PPO on the phone, he said he wasn’t ready yet and would have to check we were restoring the fireplace correctly! What utter cheek !
We also learnt that Mr PO was able to have the new stone made from a plaster cast of the old one which turned up in the house next door, owned by Mr PPO’s brother who no longer owns his house either.Mr PPO was supposed to come by today but he obviously didn’t. Relationnel says there is no way he is going to set foot in the door without the stone. I agree of course. So we’re going ahead and using the new stone as planned.
Naples is not a popular destination with tourists. True, we did have to hurriedly get off a bus when Jean Michel realised his pockets were being searched, but he had taken adequate precautions so nothing was stolen. But apart from that, I felt perfectly safe and I really loved Naples. I particularly liked the ceramics in the beautiful cloisters of Santa Chiara and the amazing Nativity cribs in the Certosa museum which overlooks Naples. We went by train from Vico Equense on the Bay of Naples where we were staying, which saved us the hassle of parking. Black Cat has been there since and she really enjoyed it too.
The sun’s shining outside and we’ve just had lunch. Instead of getting back to work on a very boring translation and the Big Fireplace Operation respectively, I suggest to Relationnel that we go for a walk. What’s the point of living in the country if we can’t make the most of autumn? Relationnel immediately agrees so I put on my big thick walking shoes and off we go.
We turn right out of the gate and walk down the road until we get to the railway underpass. We turn right again, up the hill, to the forest. I see there is a sort of path on the right, so we walk along that. Then I see a cyclist bearing off to the right once more and suggest we follow him. We keep going until we come to a sort of clearing.
In front of us is a fairly steep slope and I realise this must be what Alain meant when he talked about being in the forest and seeing the tree tops. The light is amazing and it really is very beautiful and peaceful. We come out of the forest and past a field of stubble, then through a bower of trees that have already lost their leaves.
At the end of the path, instead of continuing straight ahead, we turn right to explore the houses which Relationnel tells me overlook ours. I’m amazed that he knows where we are as I have lost all notion of geography by this time. We then start walking through brambles and Relationnel lets slip that “according to the satellite photo, this should take us back to the other path”. Ah, now the secret’s out ! He’s been checking out Google maps.
We finally have to turn back because the brambles are getting too thick and I am wearing my only decent anorak. We connect up to the field of stubble again and Relationnel finds a Marasme des Oréades (Marasmius oreades) but there’s only one so we don’t keep it. Then we see a whole ring of agarics but they’re on private property which means we obviously can’t pick them even if there’s no fence. A little further on, we see a little group of parasol mushrooms somewhat past their prime huddling together in the sun.
We go past a few more houses and I see a delightful little number plaque with blue shutters and a blue bike. Now, I wonder what sort of plaque I could find for a house that’s 400 years old and has mullioned windows and a half-timbered tower? And I wonder whether Mei Lun’s beautiful drawing of Closerie Falaiseau could be made into a plaque.
Suddenly I recognise where we are – we’re walking down a road called Rue de la Grande Filaire that I’ve never wanted to take because we usually approach it from the bottom on our bikes and it looks like a long haul up ! So we turn right and walk down Rue de l’Hôtel du Grand Pasquier that eventually meets up at the church on the corner of our road. Another 15 minutes and we’re home, delighted with our lovely autumn walk and ready to get back to work.
Well, in my last post, I said that we could maintain an even 19°C in Closerie Falaiseau, our 400-year old home in Blois, but I spoke too soon. Also, I’m not convinced that 19°C is really warm enough when you’re sitting at a computer for long periods! To allow for the BIG FIREPLACE OPERATION, I’ve moved my office into the guest room. I still have more or less the same view, only a little more restricted, but when the living room is at 20°C, the bedroom is only at 17°C. Maybe it’s because there is carpet over the heated floor in the bedrooms. Who knows?
We ended up going to buy a stand-alone heater so that I won’t have to sit with my legs wrapped up in a blanket and gloves on my hands any more. We could heat the house more, as we did today, but the cost is prohibitive and we don’t need a higher temperature in the other rooms. I also bought some leggings. I asked the lady for a collant sans pieds (tights without feet) which is what they used to be called, but she corrected me : “ah, des leggings” (pronouncing it the French way). I didn’t catch what she was saying at first.
Relationnel has completed stage 1 of the BIG FIREPLACE OPERATION. He has put up a PVC curtain to separate the room in half so that the rest of the house isn’t covered in soot. He added another curtain around the fireplace while he was sweeping the chimney and donned some more effective overalls than last time. Also, he made sure the vacuum cleaner didn’t blow the soot back into the room this time. It’s all a learning process!
Today, my wonderful new Pavoni espresso coffee machine arrived direct from Milano. This is a great extravagance, but I have developed a fixation about being able to make proper cappuccino. It has an automatic cappuccino attachment just in case I still can’t manage to make that thick creamy frothy milk that I like. We had to buy a magnifying glass along with the leggings because neither of us can read the tiny print in the multilingual instruction booklet, with or without lenses/glasses.
The translations into French and English leave much to be desired. The translator obviously didn’t have the machine in front of him/her when doing the translation. That is quite obvious. Also, the English has more information than the French. I am going to have to make an effort and try and read the Italian, I think.
So far, my milk foaming efforts have not been brilliant. It doesn’t help that I don’t have a stainless steel jug (the one my sister-in-law bought me in Australia is in my missing suitcase) and they don’t seem to sell them around here. I might try the Italian shop in Blois tomorrow. Drummer brother says you have to use the “kiss” technique, but I don’t really get it. I can see that I’m going to have to look at a lot more YouTube videos. Any suggestions are more than welcome.
The coffee itself’s good though.
Relationnel and I are on our way back to Blois. It’s 11 pm and it’s raining. We have another 1 ½ hours to go. I’ve now mastered the art of using a laptop in the car and the train. I never thought I would. I used to be allergic to laptops – I couldn’t handle the little mouse pad in the middle – but I bought a Dell Vostro (this is not an ad!) and got used to it surprisingly quickly.
I know that someone who’s addicted to an iPhone should really have a Mac but my first computer 30 years ago was a PC (with the antiquated DOS and not Windows of course and not a mouse in sight) and for many years, a lot of the software for translators was not developed for Macs. So I’ve stuck to my PC. When I arrive in Paris or in Blois, converting my laptop into a regular computer is easy – I just have to insert three plugs: the power supply, the screen and one USB plug which is connected to a hub to which my keyboard, mouse, printer and earphones are all permantly connected. That gives me two screens, which is wonderful for using reference documents and copying from one screen to the other, for example.
I always use wifi rather than a permanent Internet connection which makes it even easier. I’ve now installed a router in the garage so that I can use wifi in the garden as well – not that I’ll be able to do so for a while. Autumn is well and truly on its way and the leaves are turning a lovely gold in our little wood. We’ve even had our first frost. We’re very pleased with the heating in the Closerie. Because of the thick walls, the temperature remains very even. It’s a bit cooler than I’m used to in our Paris apartment which is overheated through no fault of our own, but in Blois we can maintain a steady 19°C (the regulation temperature for heating in France) without any problem.
Sadly, the renovations on our balcony in Paris are proving more complicated than expected and instead of ten weeks, it looks like there are going to last 18 weeks. Banging, drilling, shouting and radio music are certainly not conducive to translating! I thought I could set up a temporary office on the other side of the apartment but it turns out that the drilling and banging can still be heard there as well. I also find it very difficult to live in an apartment with no daylight in either my office or in the living room.
So by the look of things, I’ll be in Blois until the beginning of January, just returning to Paris for the occasional weekend when Relationnel can’t come down because of work. I’m delighted to be in Blois, but Relationnel and I are not happy to be separated during the week for such a long period of time. But this week we’ll both be in Blois as Relationnel is beginning the BIG FIREPLACE OPERATION, whose aim is to get our original Renaissance fireplace working, a tough challenge as the previous owners renovated everything except the four fireplaces.
You may remember that Relationnel cleaned the one in our bedroom the first week we spent in the Closerie, but not with the intention of actually using it. This is a much more complicated affair, particularly with that big sag in the middle, but I have every confidence he will do a good job – his favourite bedtime reading for some time now has been books on chimneys and fireplaces !
