Fellow Australian Susan from Days in the Claise, who also lives in the Loire Valley, but in the southern part of Touraine, has done a series of posts on Chambord Castle recently. We cycled there several times this summer, you may remember, but didn’t visit the inside. I didn’t think there was much beside the famous double revolution staircase. Intrigued by Susan’s posts, however, I decided to visit as soon as possible. A visit from Australian friend Kathy Standford from Femmes Francophiles and her husband yesterday was the perfect excuse.
Château de Chambord after a summer downpour
All the photos below are all taken from the rooftops, which must be one of the most stunning examples of architecture I’ve ever seen. François I was only 25 when he commissioned the château in 1519. Unfortunately, despite the 2000 workmen, it wasn’t completed in his lifetime and he only stayed there for 72 days out of his 32 years on the throne! He used it as a hunting lodge of course and it was not furnished – he used to travel around with everything he could possible need – including the kitchen sink. But his son, Henri II, and Louis XIV, who also loved hunting, turned it into the château we know today.
Renaissance staircase seen from the rooftopsMiddle tower over the famous double Revolution staircaseThe downpipe is nearly identical to the ones in the Tuileries Gardens!The different roofs all fit together in the most intricate wayAnother elaborate detail
Winter has come to Blois and the fireplace at Closerie Falaiseau is not ready. Which is to be expected. Snow came surprisingly early this year, but didn’t last long thank goodness. We’ve had some very cold nights (-5°C) which challenged the underfloor heating system upstairs but when Relationnel woke up to 15°C in the bedroom the first morning, he read the literature and made the necessary adjustments. Today, however, I decided to add a layer of clothing, particularly on my legs. I’m not used to this in my overheated flat in Paris! The first of the photos below was taking from my office window on 5th and the last on the 12th so you can see how quickly the leaves disappeared.
Late afternoon sun on 5th DecemberIcy water on the birdbath on 6th DecemberFirst snow on 7th DecemberPansies on 8th December – apparently they don’t mind the snow and cold!Cold and sunny on 11th DecemberEarly morning frost on 12th December
There’s an expression in French: “C’est un vrai marchand de tapis” which literally means “he’s a real carpet salesman” but which actually means someone who haggles over small sums.
I’ve managed to find nearly everything I need to make our gîte in Blois as perfect as possible, but I am still missing two small bedside rugs. I can’t find anything I liked, new or old, at a decent price although I have found two large rugs without much problem. With the arrival of winter, especially for barefoot Australian guests, I am starting actively to look again.
Our favourite fishmonger at Saint Eustache market
It’s Sunday and we’re at the market. I’m waiting for the fish to be gutted so I stroll over to a little stall selling carpets and rugs. This is not a particularly cheap market, I might add. I ask the lady how much a small one would cost as there are obviously no prices. “Oh, I’ll ask my husband. He’ll be here in a minute”. A friendly man arrives and says, “One hundred euro. Pure silk”.
“Oh, that’s too expensive I’m afraid,” I answer. “It’s for my gîte and I can’t afford to spend too much. I’m not saying it isn’t worth that much, just that it’s above my budget.” I don’t really care whether I buy them or not and am certainly not paying a hundred euro each. “Well”, he says, “tell me how much you’d be prepared to spend.”
Our bargain rugs
“More like two for a hundred,” I say. “Ok, you can have two for a hundred”, he says, just like that. I’m flabbergasted, but I don’t show it. “I just need to check with my husband”, I answer. He goes off to his truck to find the second rug while I go back to the fish stall and tell Relationnel that I’ve found the rugs I’m looking for. “Go ahead,” he says. “You know what we need.” “Yes, but I still want you to have a look.”
I’m wondering if maybe these rugs are fake or something. I go back and chat with the lady. The man returns without the second rug but says that he has two others that are the same, just a different colour. I hum and ha, though I really think the second colour is probably better anyway.
In-situ to keep our guests’ feet warm
Relationnel arrives and turns the rug over and looks at the label. He approves so I hand over the cash and the man rolls them both up. As we walk away, I explain to Relationnel what happened. He is astonished, “Bravo!” he says. I never bargain for anything usually – I’m totally hopeless, he’s much better at it. “He’s not a marchand de tapis for nothing”, he says. I walk along feeling very pleased with myself!
N.B. The Expat Blog Award closes on 15th December – don’t forget to leave a review if you haven’t already – http://www.expatsblog.com/blogs/526/aussie-in-france
I’ve often featured posts from Steph’s Blog in France in my Wednesday’s Bloggers Round-Up. You know, she’s the Irish llama and alpaca breeder who also runs a carp fishery and a holiday gîte. Anyway, today, she is hosting a Christmas Blog Hop and I signed up to participate. So after reading my post, just click on the links below to discover a whole host of other blogs! There are even lots of giveaways if you make a comment. My free gift (to be drawn on 15th December at midnight) is an e-book edition of Kati Marton’s Paris: A Love Story, definitely my best read this year.
Celebrating Christmas with the Loire Connexion
We’re driving around the village of Céré la Ronde in the Loire Valley looking for the Auberge de Montpoupon, where the Loire Connexion* is holding its Holiday Celebration & Dinner but we can only find the Auberge du Château. Then I spy a pair of Sparkly Antennae and a Santa Claus hat and I know we’re in the right place.
Sparkly Antennae and Santa Clause
We park the car and follow the antennae to the entrance and are soon drawn into a room full of festively-dressed anglophones and anglophiles (except Relationnel, who’s left his suit behind in Paris). Summer, who is the drive and energy behind the Loire Connexion, is greeting each person as they walk in. I see some folks I’ve already met at the Shaker and am soon introduced to new faces.
The Three Revellers
It’s not long before there are forty or fifty of us all talking ten to the dozen in French or English. Summer comes up to me discreetly and says, “I want to show you something.” It turns out that Louisa, from Closerie de Chanteloup, who has already decorated the room, has a surprise for us. We’re soon taking turns to be iphonographed with various Christmas accessories of her making.
Another Three Revellers (well, almost!)
After that, we all go down the stairs inside the inn, then outside and through a courtyard to a second building where tables are set for fifty people. We find our places, which are more of less according to where we live in the Loire, and the meal begins. First, some beautifully cooked sea scallops, followed by guinea fowl stuffed with foie gras and Darphin potatoes, accompanied by white and red wine from the region.
The Two Revellers
The words of Christmas carols appear next to our plates and a fiddler is suddenly standing on a stool. We break into a hearty rendition of Jingle Bells, led by Summer, and followed by other carols including the Twelve Days of Christmas which some of the people seem to be having trouble keeping track of. Not being a very good singer myself, even though I love Christmas carols, I am delighted to have a good male voice at the same table. If he makes a mistake, however, so do I!
Summer and Louisa, the iPhonographers
After the cheese, Summer announces that all the women have to take their spoons and move to another table for dessert, which is a wonderful way of getting people to mix. The « crémeux du chocolat » goes perfectly with Louisa and Fred’s wonderful pétillant. We have our coffee and the tables are cleared away so we can dance.
The Fiddler on the Stool
Relationnel and I, who haven’t seen much of each other all night, then start jiving, one of our great loves that we don’t get to indulge very often these days. The aches and pains from covering the back wall of the fireplace with refractary mortar all day seem to have disappeared, as least for the moment. The sparkly antennae and Santa Claus hat change heads a few times and we suddenly realize it is 1.30 am and we still have to drive home!
End of the evening with Château de Montpoupon in the background
By then, everyone is reluctantly saying goodbye. But we know that Summer has other great ideas up her sleeve and we’ll be seeing each other again very soon!
*a friendly anglophone and anglophile community in the Loire Valley with an “x” factor. We are:
– eXpatriates of all different nationalities.
– eXplorers – French nationals who may have lived abroad, work internationally or just enjoy time spent with an international crowd.
– eXceptionally English – We live in France. We speak French. But, when we get together, we enjoy speaking English. We welcome anyone who wants to join the conversation!
– eXchange eXperience & eXpertise – At our relaXed and informal events, we have a great laugh, but also provide a safe haven of support and friendship. We naturally share contacts, information and support to make Loire Valley living even more pleasurable.
Join us!
If you enjoyed this post, you might like to write a little review for the Expat Blog Awards: http://www.expatsblog.com/blogs/526/aussie-in-france. Closing date: 15th December 2012.
In the last two editions of my Monday’s travel photos, I’ve posted photos of Roman fountains and Roman ruins. But Rome is not just a tourist venue of course. These are just a few photos showing the life of the people who live there all the time – the Romans! Starting with the market …
Childen sheltering from the sun under the pasta stall at Piazza Campa de’ Fiori marketPreparing artichokes at Piazza Campa de’ Fiori marketMarcella, one of the best-known figures at Piazza Campa de’ Fiori marketTypical highly colourful Roman tramSwiss guards in front of the Vatican, deep in conversationOne of the amazing shops selling religious garbFrance is not the only place they have strikes!Here you can buy slices of the best pizza in Rome, we were told.The entrance to the apartment building we stayed inA typical private altar
Relationnel is arriving this afternoon with the kitchen sink. Well, almost. I wish he was. I am taller than the average Mrs Frog, unfortunately, which means that most sinks are way too low for me. It wouldn’t matter if I had a dish washer, but that is the one major item missing from Closerie Falaiseau and short of putting it in the bathroom (and that would not pass muster with my gîte guests now, would it?), it will continue to be missing until the kitchen is renovated in a couple of years time, at the same time as the addition of a very large bay window, complicated by the fact that the walls, you will remember, are about 70 cm thick. But I want light and a view of our wood.
The kitchen sink in Blois – I would like the bay window on the right of the small window
What Relationnel is bringing, though, is the electric knife sharpener (why do knives become blunt so quickly?), my sewing box (someone’s going to notice that coming-down hem soon), a couple of warm pullovers (so I can wash my only woollen cardigan) and the second cheap-O espresso maker (because pieces keep coming off the one here and my extragently expensive one now lives in Paris without me).
He’s also bringing the fireback for the renovated fireplace which he bought in Baie de Somme through leboncoin.com on Monday. I was so sad not to go with him but it seemed a little silly to take the train to Paris (1 ½ hours) then go another 2 ½ hours by car and back again. So I’m waiting eagerly to see the monster which is a metre wide and weighs over a hundred and fifty kilos.
Leonardo’s company closing file is also coming down, sadly. I can’t believe it’s not finished yet but the Court wrote to say there were some things missing and a couple of errors. But Relationnel is also bringing the flowers Leonardo sent to me just as I was leaving Paris last time – the florist suggested delaying delivery until Relationnel could bring them down to Blois as it seemed a bit dicey to take them on the train with me.
Last year’s Christmas cake fresh out of the oven
More importantly, the Christmas cake tin and ingredients will arrive tonight as well, though only Relationnel and I will be around to stir and make a wish, an unavoidable break in tradition this year as the cake is already late. I should have made it last time I went back to Paris. Of course. But I was too busy trying to close Leonardo’s company.
Taking the temperature of our home made foie gras
Apart from that, Relationnel is bringing all the materials needed to finish the BIG FIREPLACE OPERATION so we can wish in the New Year in front of a blazing fire, sipping vintage champagne and eating homemade fois gras (if we ever find the time to make it!). It could take a while to unpack from the trailer when he arrives. Then we’ll go out and celebrate our anniversary!
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I’ve at last decided to leave Paris again because of the balcony renovation and go back to Blois. It’s not that I want to. This living in two places is starting to wear me down. I’m also exhausted by the company-closing business. And I won’t see Relationnel for another 9 days. However, Françoise, my friend and neighbour in Blois, has very kindly said she’ll pick me up at the train station, which makes me feel better.
Memebers of the Confrerie Gourmande du Nougat de Tours at Blois train station
When I arrive, I see several people wearing mortar boards. A graduation ceremony in a train station? That can’t be right. It turns out to be a Brotherhood, with a few sisters thrown in. They are dressed in blue silk coats, white gloves and mortar boards with white, red and yellow trimming and are called the Confrérie Gourmande du Nougat de Tours! You may remember the word “gourmand” from my post on café gourmand.
They are busy setting out cake boxes, plastic cups, apple juice, quizzes and pens. They’re also handing out small slices of cake to taste. Françoise gives me a quiz to do. We have to read the information panels to find the answers, then ask one of the brothers or sisters to answer the last question – who are the Brotherhood’s patron saints? They turn out to be Saint Michel (pastrycooks) and Saint Martin (Tours and sharing!). We complete the quiz and get all the answers right so are each presented with a box of nougat cake!
Me in my Australian Akubra hat tasting the nougat cake
The cake consists of a shortbread crust filled with apricot marmelade (they used to use alberge, a sort of early peach), interspersed with candied fruit and covered with a moist almond topping sprinkled with icing sugar. Very tasty, I must say!
Apparently, the little round cake was forgotten for many years but one of the first recipes, dating back to 1865, was found in the library of a famous restaurant owner in Tours, Charles Barrier, in the cook book of Charles III of Monaco’s chef. A little bit complicated I agree. It was resurrected in the 1970s and “nougat de Tours” has been selling like hotcakes ever since.
Nougat cakes from Dominique Grias’ bakery in Tours
Of course, Leonardo Vinci, an iconic figure in Touraine, is supposed to have been a fan as well, because he loved almonds and candied fruit which were known as “chamber spices” back in Renaissance times. The Brotherhood was set up in 1998 and holds a “Best Nougat” competition every year open to professionals. The cake I tasted comes from the ovens of Dominique Grias, 91, avenue de la République, Tours-Nord.
A complete list of places to buy the cakes is to be found on the Brotherhood’s website – along with the recipe. Enjoy !
In this Wednesday’s bloggers’ round-up, New Zealander Rebecca Russel (now living in Nice), tells us in a post on My French Life how French women manage to stay slim while American blogger in Paris, Sylvia from Finding Noon, who “likes food a lot”, suggests places to find slimming things like crèpes and butter in Saint Malo in Brittany. On an entirely different subject, Pierre from Paris on Demand describes the Dali retrospective at the Pompidou Centre this winter. The last one was at least 33 years ago (I know – I went to it!), so this year’s is not to be missed! Enjoy!
A French woman’s secret to staying slim
by Rebecca Russel, who lives in Nice on the Côte d’Azur, and is the Director of a property search company, Côte Abode. While looking for French Riviera property on behalf of international clients, she also keeps a keen eye on the latest places to eat, shop and simply enjoy visiting.
I was reminded of how French women eat while dining at a restaurant with an American friend recently. Halfway through our meal he noticed that as each course arrived I would methodically divide up the food and set aside a third.
He meanwhile wolfed into snails in garlic butter (well, he did want to try something French), followed by a whole fish encased in crushed almonds and cooked (again) in butter, accompanied by my leftover pureed potatoes with truffle oil. He finished the entire bread basket before the mains had arrived. We followed this up with cheese and dessert. Read more
Saint Malo
by Finding Noon, an American living in Paris who appreciates fine art, good music, succulent food, and breath taking scenery
Two weekends ago we went to Cancale, and I raved about our trip, and it was fantastic, but then life happened and I start writing about more timely stuff, like the Paris Photo Festival, which I really encourage you to go see, which means I got side tracked and didn’t fully finish talking about our trip, which is fine, because, well, do you really care about every little thing we saw and tasted and experienced? I hope not, for your sake! On the other hand, I do like food an awful lot and we had some great meals on this trip that I really want to remember so I can book places for our next trip, so today, I am indulging myself and making a list of my St Malo favorite foods. First, the fish that got away. Read more.
Dali’s retrospective at Beaubourg
by Pierre from Paris on Demand, aimed at helping tourists and Paris lovers to get to know the city of Light under a different perspective, offering news and updates on exhibitions, museums, restaurants, off-the-beaten-track addresses, events and tips to prepare their trip and understand the Parisian way of life.
The Beaubourg Museum will definitely be one of the hot spots in town this winter with the Dali retrospective which will display more than 150 pieces of art by the eccentric artist who was a prolific painter, sculptor and writer.Along with the paintings, visitors will have the opportunity to watch unreleased videos of the artist, TV commercials he directed, photographs…
This exhibition is an unprecedented tribute to the most famous surrealist artist who was a pioneer and an example for future generations.
Part 1 of the story of how I closed Leonardo’s one-man company ended with the drab tax office in Saint Maur so that leaves only two more places to go. First, the legal publications office, back in Paris, then the commercial court in Créteil, also in the eastern suburbs. It would have been more logical to start with the LPO, but I didn’t know that when I began. Of course.
Opéra de Paris
I drive to the LPO, but it’s just near the Paris Opera and there is absolutely no chance of parking. I can’t even find the street, let alone park. I take the car back to our garage and decide I’ll leave the LPO until tomorrow . When I get up to the 3rd floor and open the door, I can already hear the workers chiselling and talking loudly.
Scaffolding on my balcony in the Palais Royal
I change my mind about the LPO. Halfway there, on foot this time, I realise that I don’t have the right papers. I’m fading fast. I go back home but I don’t have the keys and can’t remember the downstairs door code . I try Relationnel but he’s not answering. I phone Black Cat who comes to my rescue. I have the code to the home exchange key box upstairs, so that’s fine. I can get in. And stay in.
The workers have not stopped. I dissolve into tears of frustration. I unplug my laptop from the large screen, keyboard, mouse and internet and go into the kitchen to try and get some work done. There is no internet connection. I eventually return to my office and plug everything in again. Nothing happens. The laptop won’t recognise the screen. I jab the plug in and out and it finally works. But the keyboard and mouse aren’t functioning.
Decorations on Printemps in anticipation of the next paragraph
I try all sorts of methods, to no avail. I can’t even turn the laptop off. I google solutions on my iPhone and finally manage to turn it off. I go and have a shower. When I get back, I turn the laptop on and everything works but by then it’s 6.30 pm and I’ve wasted most of the afternoon. The workers have gone home.
Decorations in the window of Galéries Lafayette
It’s next morning so after waking up to the drilling and chiselling, I set out for the LPO. I have to go the long way because they’re making another film in the Palais Royal. Now I’m having problems finding the street again, this time with my iPhone. I ask a lady in a pharmacy who tells me it’s behind Galeries Lafayette. Well, she’s wrong, but at least I get to see the Christmas decorations at Printemps (not bad) and GL (not much better than last year). I go past a tearoom called Pouchkine that looks interesting and make a mental note to go there sometime.
Café Pouchkine 64 boulevard Haussmann
I finally find the street, around the corner from the Apple Store. Now why didn’t anyone tell me it was there? I hand over the announcement with Leonardo’s power of attorney printed out and signed by me. They don’t even ask for his identity card. I find that shocking. That means that anyone can make a legal announcement! I am asked for an advance payment of 250 euro. Why advance ? “Because it could be a little more or a little less”. What is this? Surely they can work out exactly how much it’s going to cost!
Filming in the Palais Royal
One step left: the commercial court in Créteil but we’re going to the wine fair during Relationnel’s lunch break and he’s already late. The court will be closed by the time I get there. Also I won’t feel like it after all that wine tasting! Right then, first thing Monday morning. Next and last episode coming soon.
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The most striking thing about the ruins in Rome is that they are part of the city, sometimes incorporated into more modern buildings such as churches and restaurants. One lot of ruins has even become a cat sanctuary! I’ve visited most of the more well-known ones with the exception of the Colisseum because it closes at “sundown”, though the definition of what sundown really is isn’t clear, and each time I’ve been too late!
The elusive Colosseum, originally the Flavian Amphitheatre, and the largest ever built in the Roman EmpireThe white marble triumphal Arch of Septimius Severus in the Roman ForumAnother view of the ColosseumThe Arch of Constantine, next to the Colosseum built to honour Constantine’s defeat of the pagan Maxentius.The Roman Forum surrounded by the ruins of several important ancient government buildings right in the centre of RomeThe Circus Maximus which could hold 250,000 spectators and was famous for its chariot races.The Pantheon, the best preserved monument of ancient Rome and originally a temple dedicated to the seven planetary gods.Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Mattini built inside the frigidarium of the Baths of Diocletian in the Piazza della Repubblica.Torre Argentina where Julius Caesar was murdered on the Ides of March in 44 B.C., now a cat sanctuary!
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