All posts by Rosemary Kneipp

Friday’s French – special

Special is a very special word and very rarely translated by spécial in French and vice versa. Special est un mot très particulier qu’on traduit rarement par spécial en français et vice versa. Now that’s an easy meaning to translate. What is more difficult in finding an equivalent term when we want to talk about a special day or a special friend.

Huîtres spéciales which we eat every Sunday in season
Huîtres spéciales which we eat every Sunday in season

The Chambers Dictionary gives as synonyms: particular, peculiar, distinctive, exceptional, additional to ordinary, detailed, intimate, designed for a special purpose and confined or mainly applied to a particular subject. So first you’ll have to decide why your day or friend is special. You’d probably talk about une journée exceptionnelle and une amie intime.

A special offer, on the other hand, is quite simply une promotion.

So what does spécial mean? Does it ever have the same meaning in French and English?  Yes, in certain cases, it does.

Il a reçu une formation spéciale = He was given special training.

Elle a bénéficié d’une faveur spéciale = She was given a special favour.

Comme il n’y pas de conduite assistée, conduire une voiture ancienne c’est spécial = With no power steering, driving an old car can be challenging.

But spécial can have an entirely different meaning when applied to people. If we were to say elle est vraiment spéciale, I would mean that her mentality or behaviour is not within the norm. She has a strange/bizarre way of acting/looking at things. It is definitely not a compliment!

Spécial can also mean deviant. Il a des moeurs spéciales means that he has certain tendencies not elaborated upon and is a euphemism.

And, of course, huîtres spéciales are those lovely juicy oysters fattened in small numbers in deep oyster parks which have a sort of sweet salty lingering taste called noisette (hazelnut) in French.

Do you have other examples of special and spécial?

Le Comptoir des Petits Champs – a new restaurant experience in the 1st arrondissement in Paris

When Kathy from Femmes Francophiles suggests we have lunch together today, I ask if she can find something close by so I don’t take too much time off work. The downside of being my own boss is that the work doesn’t get done when I’m not there.

Fine and sunny in the Palais Royal gardens
Fine and sunny in the Palais Royal gardens

She suggests Le Comptoir des Petits Champs, just down the road from me. All I have to do is walk through the Palais Royal gardens, up rue Vivienne and left into Rue des Petits Champs. I’ve never heard of it, despite the fact that I must have walked past it hundreds of times over the past 7 years! I arrive a little ahead of Kathy around 12.30 and am pleased to see that only a couple of tables are taken. That’s because it’s still August and half of Paris is still off at the beach somewhere.

Le Grand Véfour seen through the window
Le Grand Véfour seen through the window

The friendly waiter takes me to the last of three window tables. I’m amazed to see I can see right through to the Palais Royal. How come I’ve never noticed this restaurant? I later learn that it is voluntarily discreet, to encourage a neighbourhood clientele. I probably shouldn’t even be writing this post …

The interior of Le Comptoir des Petits Champs
The interior of Le Comptoir des Petits Champs

I’m given some “reading material” but instead of studying the menu, I look out the window and discover that I have a balcony view of the Gardens and the Grand Véfour, one of the oldest and most prestigious restaurants in the area.

Kathy soon arrives so we look at the menu. At lunchtime, it’s 14 euro for a main course only, 20 for entrée + main or main + dessert and 26 for all three. An entrée or main is 10 euro. At night, it’s 19 euro for a main, 27 for entrée + main or main + dessert and 35 for all three.

Kathy's salmon
Kathy’s salmon

I choose sword fish tartare served with sucrine lettuce, croutons and capsicum while Kathy has fresh salmon on a bed of cooked vegetables. We choose a glass of white from the south of France to go with it. It’s not a wine I know so the waitress immediately offers to let me taste first.

Café gourmand
Café gourmand

We follow with a café gourmand consisting of a mini-financier, a slice of one of the best moelleux au chocolat I’ve had for a long time, a small cream tart and a lemon mousse for me and strawberry mousse for Kathy, because I’m not a strawberry fan. The service throughout is discreet and friendly.

The discreet exterior of Le Comptoir des Petits Champs, with its old TV (and our reflections!)
The discreet exterior of Le Comptoir des Petits Champs, with its old TV (and our reflections!)

When we leave, I take a photo of the outside and marvel that I have never noticed it. Kathy did because she was intrigued by the old television set in the window!

Despite the fact that Paris is full of restaurants and there are a lot in our area (1st and 2nd arrondissements), we don’t often find a new one that we consider it’s worth going back to. Either it’s too expensive or the food isn’t wonderful or the service is not up to scratch. As a result, we have a little handful we return to regularly depending on what we want that particular day.

Le Comptoir des Petits Champs will be joining the list.

Le Comptoir des Petits Champs, 17 Rue des Petits Champs,  75001 Paris, 01 42 96 47 54. Open 7 days a week.

Berges de la Seine – the floating gardens

After our recent and most enjoyable wander along the Berges de la Seine between the Orsay Museum and Pont Alexandre III, we decide to go in search of the much-vaunted floating gardens on the other side of the bridge at Port du Gros Caillou. It’s a cloudy night and I realise too late that I should have taken the Lumix and not my iPhone which explains the poor quality of the photos.

The Eiffel Tower at sunset seen from Debilly footbridge
The Eiffel Tower at sunset seen from Debilly footbridge

We take our favourite n° 72 bus on rue de Rivoli opposite the Louvre and get out at Passerelle Debilly footbridge with its wonderful view of the Eiffel Tower. We walk across towards Quai Branly Museum but there are no signs of any gardens and we can’t even get down to the edge of the river from where we are.

Raised footbridge across to the floating gardens
Raised footbridge across to the floating gardens

I try to find some indication of where to go and finally consult Mary Kay’s post on Out and About in Paris, written when the islands were still in the project stage. We’ve come too far. We need to go back to Pont de l’Alma bridge. I was beginning to think we’d come on a wild-goose chase.

Rather sad looking floating gardens
Rather sad looking floating gardens

The handful of barges containing the gardens look very sad and sorry. As it’s after 6 pm, we can’t access them and the footbridge is raised. Obviously the wonderful weather this summer which has made the other parts of the Berges popular has not helped the gardens. Adequate watering, it seems, has not been scheduled.

Practically deserted area on Berges de la Seine
Practically deserted area on Berges de la Seine

You can’t eat, drink or take animals onto the gardens. Also there seems to be no shade in the daytime. I wonder exactly what they are for and if anyone uses them between the opening hours of 10 and 6. I’m also not convinced that the view of the Bateaux Mouches opposite is particularly attractive.

An intimate alcove
An intimate alcove

We keep walking towards Alexandre III bridge. Initially there isn’t much activity but after a while, we come to a more popular picnic area with vegetation forming a partial screen and little alcoves for the people sitting along the river.

The climbing wall along Berges de la Seine
The climbing wall along Berges de la Seine

A climbing wall with a few stray children comes into sight as we get closer to the bridge.

Opposite Faust's near Alexandre III bridge
Opposite Faust’s near Alexandre III bridge

I’m surprised that at 9.15 pm on a Friday night, there isn’t more activity. There are no tables left at Faust’s but fewer people sitting in front. We debate about why. I wonder whether it was the after-work crowd that we saw mid-week. Jean Michel thinks they’ve all gone to the country.

View of Berges de la Seine from the right bank
View of Berges de la Seine from the right bank

We walk across the bridge and can see crowds on the opposite bank where the restaurants are. We decide to walk home along the right bank but it’s very dark and not very interesting. We see a few people sitting in the shadows on their barges but that’s about all. Next time we’ll stay on the left bank!

Monday’s Travel Photos – Szentendre, Hungary

Szentendre, pronounced San-ten-dray, is a charming little town on the Danube about twenty kilometers north of Budapest, very popular in summer it seems as it is easy to get there by boat, bus, train or bike, but only crowded between about 10 am and 6 pm. After that, you can wander down the main street and only meet the locals. And we had one of our best dining experiences this summer at Muvesz in the Main Square. The architecture is mainly 18th century baroque and there are no fewer than nine churches!

The Main Square with its cobblestones
The Main Square with its cobblestones
Blagovestenska Greek Orthodox Church
Blagovestenska Greek Orthodox Church and the Baroque cross erected in 1763 to celebrate the fact that the plague bypassed the town
The Marzipan Museum
The Marzipan Museum
We often saw these tiled roofs with their unusual dormer window
We often saw these tiled roofs with their unusual dormer window
A local shop where the Hungarian owner was very helpful and friendly despite our lack of a common language
A local shop where the Hungarian owner was very helpful and friendly despite our lack of a common language
Painted angels
Painted angels
Blagovestenska Greek Orthodox Church
Blagovestenska Greek Orthodox Church

Cycling through the town after 6 pm
Cycling past the colourful merchant houses after 6 pm
The waterfront at Szentendre after the 2013 floods
The waterfront at Szentendre after the 2013 floods
Stone church with painted medallion
Stone church with painted medallion