All posts by Rosemary Kneipp

Croatia, France, French customs, Uncategorized, Weekly Blogger Round-Up

Weekly Blogger Round-Up: Colmar in Alsace – Zadar in Croatia – Saint Valentine’s Day in Paris

February 11, 2014 Rosemary Kneipp 3 Comments

In this week’s Blogger Round-Up, Carolyn from Holidays to Europe takes us to Colmar, which is one of my favourites places in Alsace, with its picturesque canals while Chasing the Donkey gives us an insider’s tour of Zadar in Croatia with it’s famous Sea Organ. To finish off, Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris gives us lots of unique ideas for Saint Valentine’s Day in Paris. Enjoy!

A Short Guide to Colmar, France

by Carolyn from Holidays to Europe, an Australian based business passionate about sharing their European travel expertise and helping travellers to experience the holiday in Europe they have always dreamed of

With only a couple of days in the Alsace region of France, I didn’t have much time to spend in Colmar but in the few short hours I was there, I quickly realised why it is such a popular town with tourists from all over the world – it is absolutely gorgeous!

Thanks to its history as a major trading post and river port in the 16th Century, Colmar is one of the prettiest cities in France. Wealthy merchants built spectacularly colourful houses alongside the canal, and even today, centuries later, they ooze charm. With a mix of French (the window shutters) and German (half-timbered facades) architecture, the houses of the former trading areas of Colmar are a reminder of the heady days when wine from the neighbouring Alsatian vineyards was shipped along the canal. Read more

What to see in Zadar

By Chasing the Donkey, a Mum & wife, now Australian expat who packed up her very typical Aussie life in May 2013 and shifted it along with her Croatian Husband and Son to rebuild the old house they inherited in Croatia & make it their home.

Be sure to to make a stop in Zadar if you plan to explore Northern Dalmatia, it’s a great destination to spend time in, its a great choice to use as a base to see Plitvice, Paklenica or Krka National Parks. So, what should you see while you’re in Zadar? We’ll there is no doubt that you’ll enjoy drinking coffee overlooking the Grand Roman Forum that is over 2,000 years old and the Church of St, Donatus among the many sights – but I guarantee you’ll end up being drawn to 2 of Zadar’s most unique attractions. The Sea Organ & the Greeting to the Sun. Read more

Love is in the air: lots of unique ideas for Valentine’s Day in Paris

by Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris, an American by birth, Swiss by marriage, resident of Paris with a Navigo Pass for the metro that she feels compelled to use

Whether you’re single, married or divorced, there’s a lot happening in Paris on February 14:

Feel like a star – For Valentine’s Day, the RATP is offering you and the person of your choice a FREE glamor shot. Five Harcourt Studio photo cabins will be available from 12:00 – 6:00 pm at the following stations: Gare de Lyon, Denfert-Rochereau, Villejuif-Louis Aragon, La Motte Picquet-Grenelle and Jaurés.

One minute to “spread the love” at the Louvre: At precisely 14h14 (2:14 pm) on February 14, a flashmob will gather in front of the pyramid at the Louvre to kiss their lover, best friend, stuffed animal, dog or bicycle. Couples, families, friends – everyone is invited to share a minute of love. KISS Flashmob in Paris event page. Read more

Cooking

Melt-in-the-mouth foie gras au sel

February 10, 2014 Rosemary Kneipp 14 Comments

I love foie gras. But not just any foie gras. The best foie gras I had ever eaten until recently was at Jean Michel’s parents’ place about 15 years ago. It must have been an important birthday because there were caterers. It just melted in your mouth. I have never forgotten it!

Our melt-in-the-mouth foie gras au sel at New Year

We have been making our own foie gras for some years now and I described how to make it in a previous post which you should also consult if you don’t know how to devein foie gras. Last summer, I went with my Australian friend Kathy Stanford from Femmes Francophiles to Le Mesturet because she wanted foie gras. As luck would have it, they were serving three different types that day, including foie gras au sel which is marinated in salt but not cooked in the oven. It, too, just melted in the mouth, one of the reasons being that not cooking it keeps all the fat inside.

Step 1: Soak foie gras in 1/2 litre of milk with enough water to cover.

So I decided that next time we made foie gras for Christmas, we’d try foie gras au sel. When we went to La Maison d’à côté in Montlivaut near Blois at the beginning of December, the chef, monsieur Laurenty, offered to provide us with fresh foie gras from his special supplier in the south-west of France where they sing to the ducks while force-feeding them.

Step 2. Separate the foie gras into its two lobes. — Step 2. Separate the foie gras into two lobes.

As a result, the quality of our foie gras was irreproachable. Foie gras au sel turned out to be very very easy to make, much easier than part-cooking it in a bain-marie in the oven. It’s often quite difficult to get the cooking time right.

Step 3. Devein the foie gras (see other post). Even if it falls apart, it doesn't matter. You can put it back together again later. — Step 3. Devein the foie gras (see My Foie Gras post). Even if it falls apart, it doesn’t matter. You can put it back together again later.

We used the same recipe as we usually do except that we replaced the white port wine we usually use with pineau des Charentes. The result was excellent.

Step 3. Put a layer of cling-film in the terrine then line the bottom with foie gras. Sprinkle over the spice mixture. Sprinkle with port wine. Add the bits and pieces of foie gras and more spices and wine. Then cover with the remaining foie gras. Sprinkle over the rest of the spices and wine. Wrap tightly make a block. — Step 4. Put a layer of cling-film in the terrine then line the bottom with foie gras. Sprinkle over the spice mixture. Sprinkle with port wine. Add any odd bits and pieces of foie gras and more spices and wine. Then cover with the remaining foie gras. Sprinkle over the rest of the spices and wine. Wrap tightly to make a compact block.

Instead of cooking the foie gras, you wrap it in gauze pads, place it in a box (we used a wooden wine box) and cover it with coarse salt. You store it in a naturally cool place (our tower room is about 10°C) for 17 hours, remove the gauze, press into a terrine, cover and keep in the fridge for about 10 days before eating.

Step 4. Take off the cling film and wrap in two layers of gauze. Place a layer of coarse salt in the bottom of a box. Add the foie gras then cover with more salt. Store in a cool room for 17 hours. — Step 5. Take off the cling film and wrap the foie gras in two layers of gauze. Place a layer of coarse salt in the bottom of a box. Add the foie gras then cover with more salt. Store in a cool room for 17 hours.

The result is OUT OF THIS WORLD. And, unlike last year, we were able to welcome in the New Year in front of our renovated Renaissance fireplace with champagne and melt-in-the-mouth foie gras.

Step 6. Place the foie gras in the terrine, press well and refrigerate for 8 to 10 days before eating.

Recipe:

One 500 g lobe of foie gras

7 g salt

1/2 g of freshly ground pepper

1/2 g of five spices

3 centiliters of white port wine

3 kilos of coarse salt.

A salt-proof box.

Time in salt: 17 hours.

Paris

Photos of the Week – Reflections at Dusk

February 9, 2014 Rosemary Kneipp 4 Comments

I know we could do without the scaffolding in the middle but the Buren columns between the Cour Constitutionnelle and the Palais Royal gardens remain photogenic no matter the weather!

French language

Friday’s French – the subtleties of si

February 6, 2014 Rosemary Kneipp 9 Comments

I’ve already talked about the fact that you don’t say oui merci in French but oui, je veux bien, but I didn’t think to mention si.

An Australian friend living in France and attending French lessons asked me the following question:

If someone repeats my order and says pas de lait (no milk) and that is correct I should answer with si not oui. Is this correct? I hope so. It would mean another consolidated learning.

I’m afraid I had to disappoint her. If she answered si it would mean that she DID want milk. She should answer “oui, c’est ça”.

Si, which is not Spanish as I thought the first time I heard it, is used in French to mean “yes” when refuting a negative that has just been used.

I think the best way to explain is by giving examples.

Tu n’en veux plus? (you don’t want any more?). If you say si it means, yes, I do want some more.

Finalement tu ne viens pas? (you’re not coming after all?). If you want to answer “Yes I am”, then you say si ou si je viens. However, if you say “oui je viens” you’d still be understood.

Il n’y a plus personne? (there’s no one left?). If there is someone left, you’d say si but if there is no one, you’d say, “non“.

Tu ne sortiras pas ce soir ! (you’re not going out tonight!). If you want to protest vehemently, you’d reply Si (oh, yes I am!).

You’re standing on a street corner. “Je ne vois pas de restaurant” (I can’t see a restaurant). Your friend says “Si, si, c’est de l’autre côté de la rue“. The si, si used here doesn’t have a literal translation. It’s refuting the fact that you’ve said you can see the restaurant but we’d hardly say “yes, it’s on the other side of the street”.

The rest of the time, si means “if” except when it means “while”, or “whether”. I’ve often noticed that the more subtle “while” is often misunderstood by Anglosaxons.

During the recent Hollande/Triereviller break-up, the Président said the following at his annual new year press conference:

Ce n’est donc ni le lieu, ni le moment de le faire [i.e. discussing his private life). Mais si je ne répondrai à aucune question aujourd’hui sur le sujet, je le ferai avant le rendez-vous que vous avez fixé.

When I read the same quote in English in the New York Times (among others), I was somewhat surprised:

“This is neither the time nor the place to do so. If I do not go into detail about this today, then I will do so before the meeting which you refer to.”

That is not what he was saying. The “si” in this case does not mean “if”. He had absolutely no intention of speaking about the matter during the press conference. He was saying “While I will not answer any questions about this day, I will do so before the meeting which you refer to”. Not exactly the same, is it!

I agree that it’s very subtle in French which is not the diplomatic language par excellence for nothing. The meaning is probably easier to understand in the following example:

Si lui est aimable, sa femme est arrogante. That does not mean “If he is pleasant, his wife is arrogant” which would express the idea that his wife is only arrogant when he is being pleasant. The sentence actually means “while (ou whereas) he is very pleasant his wife (on the other hand) is arrogant”.

Do you have any other examples?

Food, Germany, Lifestyle, Weekly Blogger Round-Up

Weekly Blogger Round-Up: Saxon Switzerland – Dying Overseas – Chinese New Year Treats

February 4, 2014 Rosemary Kneipp 6 Comments

This week’s Blogger Round-Up starts in Germany, in Saxon Switzerland, where Anda from Travel Notes & Beyond has inspired us to go on another cycling holiday this summer. Australian blogger Paula McInerney from Contented Traveller broaches the somewhat taboo subject of what happens if you die overseas while, on a less serious note, Adelina from Pack Me To, talks about all the wonderful goodies to eat at Chinese New Year. Enjoy!

Königstein – the Fortress of Saxon Switzerland

by Anda from Travel Notes & Beyond, the Opinionated Travelogue of a Photo Maniac, is a Romanian-born citizen of Southern California who has never missed the opportunity to travel

From Bastei Rocks our trip continued to the town of Königstein. From atop the table hill bearing the same name, Königstein – Germany’s largest fortress – towers over the Elbe Valley and the Saxon Switzerland landscape. Rising 240 meters above the river, the 24 acres rock plateau offers stunning views that rival with the famous Balcony of Europe in Costa del Sol, Spain.

Festung Königstein (as the Germans call it) started in the early 13th century as a medieval castle belonging to the Bohemian kingdom. In the 1400s the castle fell into the hands of the Saxon rulers and was later transformed into a monastery. In the mid 1500s by the order of Augustus, Elector of Saxony, a deep well (152 m) was drilled through solid rock on the site creating an important condition for the construction of a fortress. Read more

What happens if you die overseas?

By Paula McInerney from Contented Traveller. When they are not living in Australia, she and her husband Gordon travel the world, trying out houseboats, tatami mats, cave houses and over water bungalows, with serendipity as their watchword.

Strange conversations happen around our dinner table and one segued into what would happen if you died whilst overseas. Everyone’s response was varied, from leave me there, to bring me home. This then led into the conversation of whether people wanted to be buried or cremated and how they wanted their send off to be. Scattered over an ocean, under a tree in the bush, quickly and with no fuss, it all varied. It is worth discussing with your family and friends what you do want .. and around the dinner table is as good a place as any.

I myself think that if I died overseas just bury me there. Note the bury; I don’t want tot be cremated because it seems a bit too final. Yes, the derision at the dinner table was palpable but bad luck, I am entitled to my belief. Others wanted to be bought home to be buried, whilst some wanted to be cremated wherever, and their ashes bought home. Read more

The Best Part of Chinese New Year – the Food

by Adelina from Pack Me To, a Chinese American who’s been traveling for as long as she can remember and has lived in the Netherlands and Hungary. She loves telling stories, and eating and exploring her way around the world.

Happy lunar new year! January 31 ushered in the year of the horse. The best part of Chinese New Year for me is of course the food! There are so many delicious treats to be had during this festive holiday. As previously explained, the Chinese are a superstitious group. There are certain foods that are eaten during the holidays which are supposed to bring good luck and prosperity in the new year. Plus, they all taste delicious, so why not?

The Meals

During the 15 day festival, there are a number of meals where family come together to eat. In my family, we have a meal on Chinese new year eve with my immediate family, and sometimes with my father’s side of the family, and on day 2 of the new year, we have a meal with my mother’s side of the family. I love Chinese New Year food so much that one year my flatmate and I attempted to cook a massive new year dinner while living in Budapest for 26 people! We were crazy or what?! Here are a few of the must have dishes gracing the table. Read more

France, French customs

President Hollande’s Marianne

February 3, 2014 Rosemary Kneipp 6 Comments

If you read my post last week on green stamps, you may have noticed the drawing on the stamps.

When I saw it, I was somewhat intrigued because the previous Marianne stamp was a little different.

So I checked it out and this is what I discovered.

Marianne, who is the symbol of the French republic, has been used on stamps since 1944. Each president chooses a new Marianne who is used on ordinary (non collection) stamps (known as mariannes) throughout his presidency (sorry about the “his” but so far there have been no women presidents in this country).

Six previous mariannes from my stamp album

François Hollande announced as soon as he was elected that he would leave it up to French high school students of all people to choose the new Marianne from a selection of drawings by all the artists who had already worked for the French post office, in a major campaign across France called Mon premier vote pour la République.

And guess who they chose? A Marianne mainly inspired by Inna Shevchenko, the leader of a feminist movement called Femen, a Ukranian who arrived in France in August 2012 and was granted political asylum in 2013. The Femen who “use their bare breasts as weapons” were obviously delighted to become the “official symbol of France” while Shevchenko sent a tweet saying “Désormais, tous les homophobes, extrémistes et fascistes devront lécher mon cul pour envoyer une lettre”*, which didn’t stop her from sending another tweet (later removed) which was blantantly islamophobic.

I once visited the Conseil Constitutionnel during Heritage Weekend and the council president, Jean-Louis Debré, gave a very entertaining presentation of the different Mariannes since the French Revolution in 1789. She has been inspired in recent years by Brigitte Bardot, Michèle Morgan, Mireille Mathieu, Catherine Deneuve, Inès de la Fressange, Laetitia Casta and Sophie Marceau.

When I checked the French stamp list, I discovered it was different. The plot thickens. During the same period, the Mariannes have different names: Marianne de Cheffer, Marianne de Béquet, Marianne de Bicentenaire, Marianne du 14 juillet, Marianne des Français, Marianne et l’Europe et Marianne de la Jeunesse. It appears they are not based on real people, but are fictional.

It seems that there is no official Marianne model. While the stamp Mariannes are chosen by the president, the busts found in local town halls and other public places are chosen regularly by AMF, the association of French mayors.

Olivier Ciappa, the artist behind the current stamp, claims that he combined several different artistic styles including the Renaissance, comics, mangas and Walt Disney films, to give his Marianne an “unique aspect”. If that’s the case, maybe he shouldn’t have advertised the fact that Shevchenko was his main inspiration.

Just another example of François Hollande and his relationship with women …

* lécher = lick and cul = impolite word for rear end

Architecture, Paris

Photos of the Week – Sun in Paris in Winter

February 2, 2014 Rosemary Kneipp 3 Comments

We have been starved for sun in Paris recently so when it came out at last this weekend, I had a field day!

Looking down towards Notre Dame from Pont du Carrousel — Looking down towards Passerelle des Arts from Pont du Carrousel

Looking in the opposite direction from Pont Neuf

The newly renovated façade of the Bourse du Commerce

The Bourse du Commerce is beautiful inside as well!

The newly renovated area behind the Bourse du Commerce

Late night film of Rosemary's Baby in the Palais Royal Gardens — Late night filming of Rosemary’s Baby in the Palais Royal Gardens

Blois

City Daily Photo Theme Day on Blois Daily Photo

February 1, 2014 Rosemary Kneipp 2 Comments

Today is the first day of the month and, as usual, I have joined the City Daily Photo Theme Day on my other blog, Blois Daily Photo. This month’s theme is Entry and I’ve chosen River Entry.

French language

Friday’s French – piqure & injection

January 31, 2014 Rosemary Kneipp 2 Comments

I was sitting in the dentist’s chair today thinking about the word piqûre as the needle sank slowly and painlessly into my gums (that is why I am willing to go across Paris to see my dentist!). Although injection is the correct term, it is very rarely used.

My dentist's assistant — My dentist’s assistant

Piqûre comes from the verb piquer from the low Latin pikkare (1306) meaning to prick and exists in all the Romance languages except Romanian, which is quite astonishing. In English, we can call an injection a “shot” or “jab” but they are much more informal than piqûre.

A few examples of the way in which piqûre is used:

Le médecin m’a fait une piqure: The doctor gave me an injection.

Il s’est fait une injection d’insuline: He injected himself with insulin.

Une piqure de rappel is a booster shot.

Piqûre can also have an entirely different meaning – a mosquito or insect bite or a bee or nettle sting. It’s funny that English should be so precise, isn’t it? The mosquito actually bites us like a dog and the bee stings us like a nettle.

A pinprick is a piqûre d’épingle while the actual hole formed when the needle goes into the skin is a piqûre as well.

Interestingly, piquer doesn’t only mean prick – it also means to sew or stitch; the result – the line of stitching – is also a piqûre. Piquer à la machine is to machine stitch. If someone asks me “Sais-tu piquer à la machine” they are asking if I know how to use a sewing machine (which I do).

There are lots of other expressions using piquer. I’m sure you can suggest a few!

Art, French customs, IT, Uncategorized, Wine

Weekly Blogger Round-Up: Overalls for women now legal in France – Great party trick

January 28, 2014 Rosemary Kneipp 2 Comments

This week’s Blogger Round-Up is a spin-off from my post on the disappearance of père de famille. Bellanda from Bellanda in Paris tweeted a post explaining that women are now legally allowed to wear overalls in France, while Tim from Invisible Bordeaux responded with a famous example of an exception to the rule – Rosa Bonheur. On another fun note, Chrissie from The Riviera Grapevine shares a great party trick that involves bubbly. Enjoy!

It’s no longer a joke! My overalls were not only illegal in Paris … they were illegal in all of France!

by Bellanda from Bellandainparis, a New York presently living in Paris, doing what she loves: writing/screenwriting, painting, photography & social media managing.

The last several months, I have been joking that wearing my overalls in Paris might be considered illegal. Little did I know how right I was!

Ever since that very first day I ventured out into the streets of Paris wearing overalls, there has been ongoing banter on Twitter and Facebook about the fact that this could possibly be illegal. There were some of you who gasped with laughter saying, “No, you didn’t?” There were others who said things like, “Good for you! Be yourself and be proud.”

In my defense, and yes, I somehow think wearing overalls… more exactly wearing paint stained overalls in a city where people only wear jogging/sports attire if they are actually running, does indeed need defending. Read more

ROSA BONHEUR: THE WORLD-FAMOUS BORDEAUX-BORN ANIMALIÈRE

by Tim Pike, an Englishman in France who, when not writing Invisible Paris can often be spotted riding a vintage yellow bicycle or strumming a guitar. He has also conceived a set of self-guided walking tours around Bordeaux which are available for iDevices.

One of the most illustrious of Bordeaux’s daughters is Rosa Bonheur who, throughout her life which spanned much of the 19th century, became a world-renowned “animalière” and is regarded by many as the most famous female painter of her time.

Rosa Bonheur was born Marie Rosalie Bonheur on March 16th 1822 at 29, Rue Saint-Jean-Saint-Seurin (now 55, Rue Duranteau) in Bordeaux. Her father, Oscar-Raymond Bonheur, was a landscape and portrait painter and frequented Spanish artist Francisco Goya during the four years the latter spent in Bordeaux up until his death. Read more

The Party Trick I Wish I Had (And a recommendation for a fantastic wine bar in Piedmonte)

by Chrissie from Riviera Grapevine, a Sydney girl living in Nice with an insatiable thirst for the wines of the Var, Alpes Maritimes and Liguria. She happily sells, drinks and blogs about wine.

Recently, whilst indulging in a spot of social media browsing, I came across this gem of a YouTube clip shared via LinkedIn, Google+, Facebook, Twitter or some other format which all us members of the bloggersphere should apparently be mastering for self promotion!

Now, this is one party trick that I think would seriously impress. Opening a bottle of bubbly with the glass that you’ll serve the liquid in! Class. Especially with a certain nonchalance as conveyed by the guy in this clip. Surely this is a more realistic skill to master than learning how to saber a Champagne bottle with a sword?

Yet I know I could never pull it off. I’d shatter the delicate glass on impact, like a magician who fluffs his tricks. Read more

Aussie in France